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Originally Posted by B serious
(Post 24591213)
He did, according to the original post
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Originally Posted by flanders
(Post 24591424)
Only a few mm lower or higher wont change the toe angle much at all.
By the way did you have the exact same alignment figures with the Öhlins as your previous coilovers? Show us the setup if you got a printout, maybe there is something that could be improved there as well. With previous coilovers I could not put the UK alignment because of seized bushing. I have only 0degre40' of front camber; the other values were uk ones. Sorry I am on my smartphone now so can't post hole values.
Originally Posted by stewpitt
(Post 24591492)
This might sound stupid but, did you check the adjustment knobs to make sure they are on the softer settings? Also, I would maybe take the car to a different shop and re-check the alignment?
Originally Posted by B serious
(Post 24591506)
Add 13mm of preload (use turns, not measurement). Each 360 deg turn of the perch is 1.5mm.
Then lower the bottom bracket by 13mm to keep the same height. Easy peasy.
Originally Posted by Car Analogy
(Post 24591582)
I just reread First post. I'm not seeing where he mentions clocking them.
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
(Post 24591582)
I just reread First post. I'm not seeing where he mentions clocking them.
Originally Posted by pizzai69
(Post 24590872)
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I am under the car and just finished preloading the rear coilovers. Going to put the car back to the ground. The problem is: I ride a 28mm height drop, which is 1.11", so I can only go up to 10mm preload and the the coil is "hurting" the bottom end of the thread.
I will try to ride with this preload tomorrow, I have a trio with a friend to see a Rallye race :) I will see how it behaves on bumpy roads. |
Originally Posted by pizzai69
(Post 24591633)
I will see how it behaves on bumpy roads.
The other important thing to re emphasize is that you adjust the lower shock body to compensate for the added pre load so that your ride height/alignment is the same as before. |
Originally Posted by B serious
(Post 24591613)
He jacked up the arms before torquing the bolts.[/list]
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You were almost certainly contacting bumpstops and thus the loss of traction. Add preload as so many others have suggested.
Softening the rears can also add more grip. What did the alignment specs look like before you got the UK alignment? |
Are you sure the front sway bar is reconnected at both ends? Most people disconnect it at some point during a shock install.
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I had a problem and could not road test the car yet with the new preload: I have to replace a front upper arm bolt&nut , the thread is dead and I can't torque it so it makes noise and unscrews itself when I drive the car...
Originally Posted by THMotorsports
(Post 24592064)
You were almost certainly contacting bumpstops and thus the loss of traction. Add preload as so many others have suggested.
Softening the rears can also add more grip. What did the alignment specs look like before you got the UK alignment? Front -0deg40' camber Caster 6deg45' Toe 0deg Rear -2deg camber Toe -0deg25' /wheel Now it is: Front -1deg camber Caster 6deg45' Toe -0deg05' /wheel Rear -2deg camber Toe -0deg20' /wheel
Originally Posted by thomsbrain
(Post 24592850)
Are you sure the front sway bar is reconnected at both ends? Most people disconnect it at some point during a shock install.
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