Interior rear wheel lift after news bushings, Ohlins DFV and alignment
04-18-2019, 11:44 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Only a few mm lower or higher wont change the toe angle much at all.
By the way did you have the exact same alignment figures with the Öhlins as your previous coilovers?
Show us the setup if you got a printout, maybe there is something that could be improved there as well.
By the way did you have the exact same alignment figures with the Öhlins as your previous coilovers?
Show us the setup if you got a printout, maybe there is something that could be improved there as well.
With previous coilovers I could not put the UK alignment because of seized bushing. I have only 0degre40' of front camber; the other values were uk ones.
Sorry I am on my smartphone now so can't post hole values.
)
04-18-2019, 12:24 PM
#23
- full MUGEN arm bushings (front inferior + superior arms, rear inferior (except the front big bushing which can't be bought) and superior arm + rear toe link)
Info: When installing the arms back on the car, I did put a hydraulick jack under the lower arm, and jacked up until the car began to lift up (of the stand jack), before torquing the bushings bolts.
04-18-2019, 01:13 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
I am under the car and just finished preloading the rear coilovers. Going to put the car back to the ground. The problem is: I ride a 28mm height drop, which is 1.11", so I can only go up to 10mm preload and the the coil is "hurting" the bottom end of the thread.
I will try to ride with this preload tomorrow, I have a trio with a friend to see a Rallye race
I will see how it behaves on bumpy roads.
I will try to ride with this preload tomorrow, I have a trio with a friend to see a Rallye race
I will see how it behaves on bumpy roads.
04-18-2019, 02:23 PM
#25
More compliant, assuming you were nearly on the bump stops before.
The other important thing to re emphasize is that you adjust the lower shock body to compensate for the added pre load so that your ride height/alignment is the same as before.
The other important thing to re emphasize is that you adjust the lower shock body to compensate for the added pre load so that your ride height/alignment is the same as before.
04-19-2019, 01:33 PM
#27
Former Sponsor
You were almost certainly contacting bumpstops and thus the loss of traction. Add preload as so many others have suggested.
Softening the rears can also add more grip.
What did the alignment specs look like before you got the UK alignment?
Softening the rears can also add more grip.
What did the alignment specs look like before you got the UK alignment?
04-22-2019, 11:29 AM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
I had a problem and could not road test the car yet with the new preload: I have to replace a front upper arm bolt&nut , the thread is dead and I can't torque it so it makes noise and unscrews itself when I drive the car...
Alignment before modifications was:
Front
-0deg40' camber
Caster 6deg45'
Toe 0deg
Rear
-2deg camber
Toe -0deg25' /wheel
Now it is:
Front
-1deg camber
Caster 6deg45'
Toe -0deg05' /wheel
Rear
-2deg camber
Toe -0deg20' /wheel
I checked that: front sway bar is connected.
Front
-0deg40' camber
Caster 6deg45'
Toe 0deg
Rear
-2deg camber
Toe -0deg25' /wheel
Now it is:
Front
-1deg camber
Caster 6deg45'
Toe -0deg05' /wheel
Rear
-2deg camber
Toe -0deg20' /wheel
I checked that: front sway bar is connected.
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