bgoetz

could you clarify this? So you had the stiffer springs, went softer and like it better?

freq

I'm currently running Konis w/ CR springs. I'm likely going to Ohlins.

noodels

Out of the box F10/R8 springs,my rear 10 clicks from full stiff, front 11 clicks from full stiff<correct way to count>,suggested 2mm preload
04 MY with more equal Oem roll bars than other MYs

Edit now have much more Rear spring preload approx. 10-12mm =

bgoetz

Ahh ok I read the 10 and 11 as rates front and rear.

Apex1.0

Quick update. I street drove with the 5 click out setting. At this point even with the dfv it is becoming too stiff for the street. The chassis is starting to become upset over pavement defects. The car is hyper responsive and you spend lots of time making small corrections. However on smooth roads the body control is smooth and great. I can see this setting being good on the track.

I backed it down to 15 out, I can see the street driving damping range for me will be somewhere around 12-18. Unfortunately the track season is over here, so I have to wait for the spring to try the shocks off the street.

FrostyWinters

I drive with 8 clicks from full stiff, front and rear. Around DMV area I find it acceptable on public roads. The same for track. Tried once with 10 front & 8 rear and didn't like it and went back to 8/8 and played with tire pressure instead. Gonna be next year until I try a different setting on track.

B serious

*From what I understand*, the actual DFV only works on ultra high speed movements. You shouldn't feel it working during normal driving.

Its just a tertiary flow path. Shims handle low/medium speed. Piston blowoff handles high speed. DFV handles ultra high speed simultaneously.

The DFV isn't active all the time. Otherwise, you'd have no damping. Its an ultra high speed blowoff to keep the tire on the road over track curbing or landing a jump, or very sharp/high bumps that the piston cannot handle by itself.

The DFV bleeds the pressure that the piston cannot handle. The piston and shims are bleeding/controlling flow at the same time. When ultra high speed movement slows down enough, the DFV closes.

It would take an abnormally large impact to activate the DFV. Its purpose is to handle *abnormally* high speeds.

The DFV should not normally work during driving. I don't even know if it shows up on most dyno graph speeds. Evidence of this is that setting the clicker overly stiff will result in a non-compliant ride and the car will skip over bumps if you over do it. The DFV has nothing to do with that.

LMK if I'm understanding the concept incorrectly.

B serious

I'm not sure what DMV stands for.

I think that the Öhlins handle warm weather state roads just fine (as a generalization) on the recommended setting(s). I go to the west coast often. I just got back from a LA to Baja road trip (crewed for a Baja 1000 team). The roads have dips and gradual heaves. Even if the shocks do contact the bumpstop, they do so gradually and they handle these slow transitions very well. In fact, stiffer is better.

In the upper midwest, the roads SUCK. They expand and contract with weather. Snow, ice, and salt, and hot summer heat tears them apart. Potholes are repaired pretty fast in the burbs....BUT.... you get these buckled portions of road every 500-1000ft.

I only summer-drive my S2000. Its worse in summer because the roads expand and crush into each other. Think of how Everest was formed via plate tectonics. Same thing. They have to "shave: the road mountains every few years.

Its basically like smashing into a small speed bump at 60mph. The wheels crash into it, the wheels move upward and the suspension compresses at an incredible rate of speed, the bumpstop becomes compressed to a large amount, and then the spring/bumpstop explodes back into rebound and your body gets thrown upward. Add to that the large dips and drops that follow these stupid assed expansion heaves. On that type of road, you really really need travel. And no...the Öhlins with their factory settings are not more comfortable than stock just because of that. My TSX on $600 Tein SA's is more comfortable because TSX's have travel inherently.

The roads are like this in any place that sees weather swings and high traffic.

I LOLLOLLOL when people complain about how "bad" the roads are in places like SC, TN, TX or CA or NV, etc. Yall are insane. All the roads I've driven out there were smooth AF with just gradual dips. I suggest driving to Chicago or NYC or WI or MN, etc. Even in the burbs or rural areas.

I wish the Öhlins came with deeper or better designed lower mounts so you could get travel without massive height gain. I don't want my car looking like the Grave Digger truck just to get travel from the shock.

noodels

Think have only activated it once only ^ looks good to me.

FrostyWinters

DMV = DC, MD, VA. Roads around here are in pretty good shape, save from the potholes popping up throughout the winter. I don't drive the S in winter anymore. It's graduated to the garage queen status 2 years ago.