Leaky KW V3s, rebuild options?
07-17-2018, 05:35 AM
#1
Leaky KW V3s, rebuild options?
I have a set of KW V3s and 2 of the shocks has developed a leak from the rebound adjuster. It’s a slow leak as there are minimal amounts of fluid on top/inside the adjuster. Still really stumped as the set couldn’t have seen more than 15k miles and my car is not slammed (approx 13.1 inches from center hub to fender). I am not entitled to their lifetime warranty as the shocks were purchased used from my friend. I have inquired with KW and the cost to service is $180 per shock. I am responsible for the shipping costs to KW but the service charge does include the shipping back. However, the service charge only includes a basic overhaul like seals and fluid. It does not include internal components like compression valve, rebuild of rebound assembly or other hardware. Looking at their costs, it could add up to $300 for each shock if those items needs to be replaced. I have the following questions and was hoping some can shed some light:
1. Has anyone gotten their V3s serviced through KW? If so, aside from seals/fluid, was there any other parts replaced? What are the chances the valves/rebound assembly being bad? Is it even worth doing an overhaul without replacing these parts?
2. I have researched and it appears that KW in Cali is the only place that can service them?? I found an old thread where users, TWF/RobRob, was working on an end user service solution for the V3 but the information is quite old. Does anyone have anymore insight to this?
3. Is it even worth it to service them? Seems like KW is a bit of hit and miss as I have found multiple threads reporting premature leaky KWs. I found a local deal where I can secure BNIB Ohlin DFV for around $1,800.
4. Will driving the V3s in the current state till the end of this summer will do additional damages to the shocks? I might drive another 600 street miles before the end of the season. Even if I decide to overhaul the shocks, it will not be send in until March anyways given the car is parked over winter and KW only provide a 6 month warranty on their overhaul service hence I want to maximize their warranty.
Sorry for the long post but any help/comment will be appreciated.
1. Has anyone gotten their V3s serviced through KW? If so, aside from seals/fluid, was there any other parts replaced? What are the chances the valves/rebound assembly being bad? Is it even worth doing an overhaul without replacing these parts?
2. I have researched and it appears that KW in Cali is the only place that can service them?? I found an old thread where users, TWF/RobRob, was working on an end user service solution for the V3 but the information is quite old. Does anyone have anymore insight to this?
3. Is it even worth it to service them? Seems like KW is a bit of hit and miss as I have found multiple threads reporting premature leaky KWs. I found a local deal where I can secure BNIB Ohlin DFV for around $1,800.
4. Will driving the V3s in the current state till the end of this summer will do additional damages to the shocks? I might drive another 600 street miles before the end of the season. Even if I decide to overhaul the shocks, it will not be send in until March anyways given the car is parked over winter and KW only provide a 6 month warranty on their overhaul service hence I want to maximize their warranty.
Sorry for the long post but any help/comment will be appreciated.
07-17-2018, 08:41 AM
#2
Expect to go through this again in 10-15k miles.
Fussy coilover. If you don't have to have a separate rebound and compression adjustment ( which most of us don't) your better off running a more durable single adjustable. Ive got over 150k miles out of my buddy club race spec before I chose to have them serviced and that cost me $600 for the whole set of seals and bushings and oil and gas recharge. Also out of California so local/good return time. Ive had friends that went through the same ridiculous rebuild intervals on the KW. The only thing they have going for them is they are the cheapest dual adjustable option IF you have to have it.
Fussy coilover. If you don't have to have a separate rebound and compression adjustment ( which most of us don't) your better off running a more durable single adjustable. Ive got over 150k miles out of my buddy club race spec before I chose to have them serviced and that cost me $600 for the whole set of seals and bushings and oil and gas recharge. Also out of California so local/good return time. Ive had friends that went through the same ridiculous rebuild intervals on the KW. The only thing they have going for them is they are the cheapest dual adjustable option IF you have to have it.
07-17-2018, 02:34 PM
#3
Lol these don't typically wear out in 15k.
Op...
Any shock will have a small amount of oil residue. U sure there is an issue?
If so....
Are you still friends with that friend?
Fill in the blanks here. A warranty is easier than you think.
Op...
Any shock will have a small amount of oil residue. U sure there is an issue?
If so....
Are you still friends with that friend?
Fill in the blanks here. A warranty is easier than you think.
07-17-2018, 03:00 PM
#4
No, just blow oil past the seals and need to go in to get re serviced again... and again... and again... if you own them for any great length of time. Not a great coilover if the car sees a lot of shared street duty for that reason id say.
We should start a thread on KW v3 owner rebuild mileage intervals.
We should start a thread on KW v3 owner rebuild mileage intervals.
07-17-2018, 03:08 PM
#5
Thanks for the replies. I ran the BCRS dampers on my EK civic and ITR back in the day and really loved them. Great on the track and quite compliant on the street when turned down. I was actually looking into them when I was shopping for coils but thought I would try a higher end coilover on the S given the praise on the forum a few years ago. Seems like DFV is the rage these days.
There is definitely oil on the rebound adjusters but I can't say it's a lot. Just barely moist. But the other 2 adjusters are completely dry. I have never seen oil on any of the coilovers that I ran before and I have ran quite a few sets. Is it really normal? I did notice it would make some noises on the compression stroke but after reading up, it seems quite common for the V3s. I haven't noticed any degraded performance.
If it's only the seals that I need to replace, I am willing to chance it and go for service once. I have also read where people have been getting decent mileage without any issues. It's just not knowing the end cost that is a bit scary and it can add up quick.
Unfortunately, my friend has moved out of the country. That was the reason why he sold them to me.
There is definitely oil on the rebound adjusters but I can't say it's a lot. Just barely moist. But the other 2 adjusters are completely dry. I have never seen oil on any of the coilovers that I ran before and I have ran quite a few sets. Is it really normal? I did notice it would make some noises on the compression stroke but after reading up, it seems quite common for the V3s. I haven't noticed any degraded performance.
If it's only the seals that I need to replace, I am willing to chance it and go for service once. I have also read where people have been getting decent mileage without any issues. It's just not knowing the end cost that is a bit scary and it can add up quick.
Unfortunately, my friend has moved out of the country. That was the reason why he sold them to me.
07-17-2018, 06:48 PM
#6
So there is oil on the top?
Or did you mean the bump adjuster?
Do you have any photos?
I used mine for +40K and had 12k/10k springs on them. Then I sold them like 3yrs ago to someone who is still using them.
Or did you mean the bump adjuster?
Do you have any photos?
I used mine for +40K and had 12k/10k springs on them. Then I sold them like 3yrs ago to someone who is still using them.
07-17-2018, 07:07 PM
#7
On top of the rebound adjuster, which is located at the top of the shock. I have the newer style "click" type adjuster where you have to use a small Allen key to adjust rebound. The oils is filling the Allen key hole. Unless I have it backwards, I believe the bump/compression adjuster is on the bottom of the shock and it's a pita to get to.
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07-17-2018, 07:43 PM
#8
I once had a Koni on my ITR leak up top at the rebound adjuster because I ran the valve fully closed (stiff) and my friend drove the car to the track with like 20000000LB worth of shit in the back.
I beleive that shock had been re-valved more aggressively.
Nothing happened to it though. I just wiped the oil off and went about my life.
Idk. If they feel fine, keep driving. Rebuild them when they fail.
I beleive that shock had been re-valved more aggressively.
Nothing happened to it though. I just wiped the oil off and went about my life.
Idk. If they feel fine, keep driving. Rebuild them when they fail.
07-18-2018, 06:24 AM
#9
I once had a Koni on my ITR leak up top at the rebound adjuster because I ran the valve fully closed (stiff) and my friend drove the car to the track with like 20000000LB worth of shit in the back.
I beleive that shock had been re-valved more aggressively.
Nothing happened to it though. I just wiped the oil off and went about my life.
Idk. If they feel fine, keep driving. Rebuild them when they fail.
I beleive that shock had been re-valved more aggressively.
Nothing happened to it though. I just wiped the oil off and went about my life.
Idk. If they feel fine, keep driving. Rebuild them when they fail.
07-18-2018, 07:46 AM
#10
The DFV is more refined and seems to deal with spring rate variations more easily. And if you know what you're doing, you can optimize and adjust lot of things advantageously. Plus, they dampers are simple to adjust, lighter, more advanced, and they don't bump me into "modified" time attack groups since they're just single point adjustable.
But...if there's nothing wrong with your ride quality, keep using the KW. If they need a rebuild...they need a rebuild. If they are leaking but not deteriorating in ride/performance....using them isn't likely going to ruin them further.
I got the DFV because I wanted to try them out. I'm happy with the change.
But...if there's nothing wrong with your ride quality, keep using the KW. If they need a rebuild...they need a rebuild. If they are leaking but not deteriorating in ride/performance....using them isn't likely going to ruin them further.
I got the DFV because I wanted to try them out. I'm happy with the change.