Mismatched rear rotors?
#1
Mismatched rear rotors?
My S2000 is in the shop after a crash on the 7th. I messed up the right passenger wheel, rotor, hub, lower control arm. Most everything in that area. In gathering the parts to repair it, I'm not able to tell the shop exactly what rotor it is so they can replace it perfectly. The rear rotors are (/where) slotted and drilled, and were given to me with the car when I bought it, and they didn't really contain any information on what they were. Probably an eBay/Amazon buy. I installed them Jan 21st, so the rear driver's is very new. If they're able to find a similar slotted/drilled rotor, should I expect to not notice anything odd. Or, with the S2000 being the car that it is, do I need to ensure that there are two matched rotors?
#2
i would just throw the other slotted/drilled rotor away and toss another reputable duralast, bosch or oem rotor on - it's what $25 for 1 rear rotor?
slotted and drilled rotors are of questionable quality as I have no clue why someone would do that to a brake rotor.
slotted and drilled rotors are of questionable quality as I have no clue why someone would do that to a brake rotor.
#3
Interesting. I was under the impression it was for ventilation to help the brakes cool. Do they not really do what they say?
I still have the old rotors. They look just fine. Would you recommend just putting them back on?
I still have the old rotors. They look just fine. Would you recommend just putting them back on?
#4
Rockauto sells blank rotors for next to nothing.
No...drilled rotors don't help with cooling. There's no reason they would. If anything, they run hotter. Slots help with cooling a bit...I guess....
But do you need additonal cooling?
Id go on rockauto and buy two blank rotors, and buy a set of good pads so everything is fresh.
No...drilled rotors don't help with cooling. There's no reason they would. If anything, they run hotter. Slots help with cooling a bit...I guess....
But do you need additonal cooling?
Id go on rockauto and buy two blank rotors, and buy a set of good pads so everything is fresh.
#5
The idea with drilled and ...or slotted rotors, is it gives somewhere for the hot gasses to go rather then build up under the pad losing braking effectiveness, it is functional but its not really for cooling per say. However drilled rotors (especially low quality ones) tend to crack under abuse. Slotted rotors are the best, achieving gas and debris evacuation wile offering a little added initial bite on the pad which some like and self cleaning attribute if pad gets contaminated, they also are structurally more sound then drilled and Ive had nothing but success running cheap slotted rotors on this car. Its a cheap upgrade over solid stockers.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 02-15-2017 at 08:50 PM.
#7
Registered User
Brake pads don't release gas like they used to. You could use slotted rotors, but they're like what? 5-6x the cost for really nothing. Get blanks. Spend money on pads.
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ZDan (02-17-2017)
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#8
Slotted rotors are not 5-6 times the cost. They can be had for $125 for the full set of 4. Same as any cheap standard rotor for this car. Ive put a lot of miles on cheap slotted rotors, they work great.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 02-16-2017 at 06:17 PM.
#9
Registered User
Are you sure they dont? There are quite a few different pad materials and temperatures the pads see. Throw in some water or contaminates, dust and debris and you have no measure to eliminate it, it just builds up between the pad and rotor either scoring both surfaces and or temporally reducing braking effectiveness.
Slotted rotors are not 5-6 times the cost. They can be had for $125 for the full set of 4. Same as any cheap standard rotor for this car. Ive put a lot of miles on cheap slotted rotors, they work great.
Slotted rotors are not 5-6 times the cost. They can be had for $125 for the full set of 4. Same as any cheap standard rotor for this car. Ive put a lot of miles on cheap slotted rotors, they work great.
So I suppose they still do to an extent, but I have not heard much on this before.
Also, can you link me to those rotors, I'm interested in checking those out.
#10
I meant back in the days of asbestos pads, but I did do some research into your question and I found this from EBC "The dominant mechanism causing brake fade is this thermal degradation of the phenolic resins and other materials in the friction lining, which create a film of gas at the pad-rotor interface and effectively causes the brake pad to skid off the disc. As these gasses build up at the pad-rotor interface, they produce an appreciable backpressure which creates an opposing force to the brake caliper that is trying to hold the pads against the rotor. If there is no way for the gasses to escape, the opposing force as a result of the outgassing can become large enough to prize the pads away from the rotor, reducing the area of pad in contact with the rotor and thus reducing braking power (i.e. brake fade)."
So I suppose they still do to an extent, but I have not heard much on this before.
Also, can you link me to those rotors, I'm interested in checking those out.
So I suppose they still do to an extent, but I have not heard much on this before.
Also, can you link me to those rotors, I'm interested in checking those out.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 02-16-2017 at 07:47 PM.