Need help adjusting Ohlins
07-07-2016, 08:20 AM
#21
Recently, I noticed my suspension doing this as well. As I increase ride height by unthreading the shock body from the bottom collar, it compresses the spring (causing the shaft to go into the shock body) and adds preload...
I was thinking that perhaps it was the swaybar or bushing preload not allowing the shock to fully droop?
I was thinking that perhaps it was the swaybar or bushing preload not allowing the shock to fully droop?
07-07-2016, 10:45 AM
#22
Remove the shocks/springs from the car.
Make sure your top mount center nut is tight. Set preload to 2mm. Don't ever touch it again.
Set the bottom perch about 10mm shorter than Öhlins recommends in order to get to the lower ride height you're after. Before people assemble a mob to come get me...Öhlins allows a deviance of (+/-) 15mm from their recommendations.
Alternatively, the bottom bracket can be set wherever you'd like within that (+/-) 15mm range.
I believe the front MR is ~1.5:1. So a 10mm shock height change is a 15mm ride height change.
Reinstall the suspension. Voila.
You don't want to set preload whilst the suspension is installed. Your bushings are preventing shock extension.
Again...never touch the preload after doing this. Make sure your top nut is tight.
Make sure your top mount center nut is tight. Set preload to 2mm. Don't ever touch it again.
Set the bottom perch about 10mm shorter than Öhlins recommends in order to get to the lower ride height you're after. Before people assemble a mob to come get me...Öhlins allows a deviance of (+/-) 15mm from their recommendations.
Alternatively, the bottom bracket can be set wherever you'd like within that (+/-) 15mm range.
I believe the front MR is ~1.5:1. So a 10mm shock height change is a 15mm ride height change.
Reinstall the suspension. Voila.
You don't want to set preload whilst the suspension is installed. Your bushings are preventing shock extension.
Again...never touch the preload after doing this. Make sure your top nut is tight.
07-07-2016, 10:46 AM
#23
Recently, I noticed my suspension doing this as well. As I increase ride height by unthreading the shock body from the bottom collar, it compresses the spring (causing the shaft to go into the shock body) and adds preload...
I was thinking that perhaps it was the swaybar or bushing preload not allowing the shock to fully droop?
I was thinking that perhaps it was the swaybar or bushing preload not allowing the shock to fully droop?
Preload is set with the shock fully extended. Do not re-set it to account for bushing bind.
07-07-2016, 10:51 AM
#24
Also..."preload" is a word that gets thrown around. To properly advise, preload pertains to the amount of pre-compression you are placing on a spring
Bushings are CLOCKED...not preloaded...if they are tightened at ride height. Clocking is the opposite of preloading. If your bushings are preloaded at ride height, they will tear. So by tightening the suspension components whilst the car is at ride height, you are "UNLOADING" or *Clocking* them.
Just some nomenclature to help properly identify what is being said.
Bushings are CLOCKED...not preloaded...if they are tightened at ride height. Clocking is the opposite of preloading. If your bushings are preloaded at ride height, they will tear. So by tightening the suspension components whilst the car is at ride height, you are "UNLOADING" or *Clocking* them.
Just some nomenclature to help properly identify what is being said.
07-07-2016, 06:46 PM
#25
Also..."preload" is a word that gets thrown around. To properly advise, preload pertains to the amount of pre-compression you are placing on a spring
Bushings are CLOCKED...not preloaded...if they are tightened at ride height. Clocking is the opposite of preloading. If your bushings are preloaded at ride height, they will tear. So by tightening the suspension components whilst the car is at ride height, you are "UNLOADING" or *Clocking* them.
Just some nomenclature to help properly identify what is being said.
Bushings are CLOCKED...not preloaded...if they are tightened at ride height. Clocking is the opposite of preloading. If your bushings are preloaded at ride height, they will tear. So by tightening the suspension components whilst the car is at ride height, you are "UNLOADING" or *Clocking* them.
Just some nomenclature to help properly identify what is being said.
I discovered that the "clock" of the bushings was keeping the shock/spring compressed even with the wheel completely off the ground(unable to fully droop). Therefore when lengthening the shock body(trying to raise the car up), the shaft would compress into the shock body, and spring itself was forced to compress, giving the impression of adding "preload". As soon as I loosened the upper A arm bushings and lower damper bushing, the shocks were able to droop fully, and adjustments to ride height/preload became accurate and independent.
07-08-2016, 03:54 AM
#26
Originally Posted by B serious' timestamp='1467917511' post='24011232
Also..."preload" is a word that gets thrown around. To properly advise, preload pertains to the amount of pre-compression you are placing on a spring
Bushings are CLOCKED...not preloaded...if they are tightened at ride height. Clocking is the opposite of preloading. If your bushings are preloaded at ride height, they will tear. So by tightening the suspension components whilst the car is at ride height, you are "UNLOADING" or *Clocking* them.
Just some nomenclature to help properly identify what is being said.
Bushings are CLOCKED...not preloaded...if they are tightened at ride height. Clocking is the opposite of preloading. If your bushings are preloaded at ride height, they will tear. So by tightening the suspension components whilst the car is at ride height, you are "UNLOADING" or *Clocking* them.
Just some nomenclature to help properly identify what is being said.
I discovered that the "clock" of the bushings was keeping the shock/spring compressed even with the wheel completely off the ground(unable to fully droop). Therefore when lengthening the shock body(trying to raise the car up), the shaft would compress into the shock body, and spring itself was forced to compress, giving the impression of adding "preload". As soon as I loosened the upper A arm bushings and lower damper bushing, the shocks were able to droop fully, and adjustments to ride height/preload became accurate and independent.
Hopefully, you re-clocked the bushings by tightening them all at ride height position.
07-08-2016, 04:30 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by brandondan1' timestamp='1467945983' post='24011580
[quote name='B serious' timestamp='1467917511' post='24011232']
Also..."preload" is a word that gets thrown around. To properly advise, preload pertains to the amount of pre-compression you are placing on a spring
Bushings are CLOCKED...not preloaded...if they are tightened at ride height. Clocking is the opposite of preloading. If your bushings are preloaded at ride height, they will tear. So by tightening the suspension components whilst the car is at ride height, you are "UNLOADING" or *Clocking* them.
Just some nomenclature to help properly identify what is being said.
Also..."preload" is a word that gets thrown around. To properly advise, preload pertains to the amount of pre-compression you are placing on a spring
Bushings are CLOCKED...not preloaded...if they are tightened at ride height. Clocking is the opposite of preloading. If your bushings are preloaded at ride height, they will tear. So by tightening the suspension components whilst the car is at ride height, you are "UNLOADING" or *Clocking* them.
Just some nomenclature to help properly identify what is being said.
I discovered that the "clock" of the bushings was keeping the shock/spring compressed even with the wheel completely off the ground(unable to fully droop). Therefore when lengthening the shock body(trying to raise the car up), the shaft would compress into the shock body, and spring itself was forced to compress, giving the impression of adding "preload". As soon as I loosened the upper A arm bushings and lower damper bushing, the shocks were able to droop fully, and adjustments to ride height/preload became accurate and independent.
Hopefully, you re-clocked the bushings by tightening them all at ride height position.
[/quote]
Good stuff right there.
11-19-2016, 04:44 PM
#28
How much bump travel on these with Ohlins DFV given spec of 2mm ect ect or with 33.5cm wheel center to arch
I ask because don't want the tyre to hit inner arch on full travel.<after giving extra spring preload>
or may have to remove spring and refit wheel and do it myself all Again
I ask because don't want the tyre to hit inner arch on full travel.<after giving extra spring preload>
or may have to remove spring and refit wheel and do it myself all Again
Last edited by noodels; 11-22-2016 at 05:53 AM.
11-19-2016, 07:09 PM
#29
The damper has about 54mm of travel not including the bumpstop.
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SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
11-19-2016, 11:53 PM
#30
Thanks again,
don't think the bump travel has changed then,
it wouldn't though, changing spring preload,keeping the same ride height
don't think the bump travel has changed then,
it wouldn't though, changing spring preload,keeping the same ride height