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Need help with AP2 Suspension

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Old 05-11-2014, 07:39 PM
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Default Need help with AP2 Suspension

My car is currently sitting on the stock shocks with Eibach springs, which the previous owner put on. 1" drop, and although it looks good, speed bumps and driveways are a PITA. So I want to raise it back up to around stock height.
The previous owner did give me the stock springs. My car is a 2004 AP2, ~88k miles on shocks, ~80k miles on stock springs, ~8k miles on eibach springs.

Which of these should I go after? I DD my car, don't track it at the moment, but might plan to sometime in the future.

-Keep the stock shocks, put oem springs back on
-Buy Koni yellows, put oem springs on (springs have 80k miles, should I just buy new springs too while I'm at it?)
-Buy Koni yellows + CR springs
-Koni yellows + ??? springs (All the springs I see being used are lowering springs, but I don't want that effect)
-Bilstein PSS or PSS9?

Any other recommendations? Don't have to be koni yellows.
Budget $1000 max please.

I also plan to install the setup myself, will I manage fine as a beginner or is this a tough job?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Old 05-12-2014, 05:50 AM
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$1000 won't be enough for Bilstein unless you buy used, so:

Koni + your stock 04 springs
Old 05-12-2014, 07:36 AM
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I did the eibachs on OEM struts first love then but the ride height watching out for everything sucked. Now I have the Komi's with C/R spring and loving them. Also went to the square set up and I won't go back to the staggered set up. I did all of my own suspension work. Good luck with your decision.
Old 05-14-2014, 06:28 AM
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If I wanted stock ride height, I'd go with a full CR setup, shocks and springs, and call it a day. You should be able to find a very low mileage set for not much money... people swap out OEM suspensions for coilovers all the time.


You should be able to handle the install yourself. You'll need:

- Jack
- Jack stand(s) (raising up all 4 corners at once is a big benefit)
- Torque wrench capable of 80ft-lb
- Breaker bar (not necessary, but highly advised)
- 17mm 6 point socket (don't use a 12pt)
- 14mm deep socket (deep is necessary for the rear)
- 6" socket extension (so you don't have to detach the fuel line on the drivers rear.. easier this way in my opinion)
- 14mm wrench and 6mm? hex wrench if disassembling OEM shocks (different sizes for Konis.. 9mm socket, and 11/16ths wrench I believe)
- Spring compressor if dealing with OEM springs (rent from auto parts store.. shouldn't need one if dealing only with lowering springs)
- Large screw driver or pry bar for the rear (bent end is a plus) to lineup the shock mount with the lower arm (easiest method BY FAR).

and follow this
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/303...-installation/

2 hours solo when you know what you're doing. Maybe 4 solo for your first time.

Konis require drilling out the stock top hats and dust boots to ~12mm. It's kind of a pain, but doesn't take too long. And you'll need a hammer to remove the OEM spring perches for re-use on the Konis.
Old 05-14-2014, 02:08 PM
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Thanks for all the help, I think I'll just stick the oem springs back on for now, seems like the easiest and cheapest thing to do. Will I need to mark any of the bolts like this guy does at 4:45?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qT_jg...utu.be&t=4m42s
Thanks again.
Old 05-15-2014, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Elysian
Thanks for all the help, I think I'll just stick the oem springs back on for now, seems like the easiest and cheapest thing to do. Will I need to mark any of the bolts like this guy does at 4:45?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qT_jg...utu.be&t=4m42s
Thanks again.
Nope, you won't have to touch any bolt that is involved with alignment.




up front:
Unscrew two top bolts that attach shock top mount to body. They are the on the sides of the top mounts.

Unscrew bottom bolt that attaches shock to the lower arm (one side looks like a nut, but it's NOT a nut.. it's welded to the shock.. so make sure you unscrew the bolt head).

Unscrew the two bolts that attach the upper arm to the body. As you can see, the front shocks sit inside the upper arm, and you can't slide the shock out without the A arm out of the way. When you unscrew it, the pointed end is still connected to the hub, so it will just hang there.

In the rear, it's just the top two bolts, and the bottom bolt. You won't need to remove any A arm bolts, or sway bar bolts.
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