New to S2000, need suspension advice on coilovers
#1
New to S2000, need suspension advice on coilovers
Used to be in the Honda scene several years ago but never dabbled with S2000s. Picking up my second S2000, first one I left stock then sold it and I need some suspension advice. This is not my daily driver, going to do some spirited drives throughout the week. I am more than likely going to run RPF1s 17, +45, 215/225 up front and 245/255 in the rear and going to try and NOT roll the fenders so I am wanting a coilover with a stiffer spring rate to limit the rubbing. I know it will rub some but after talking to a few people with this set up, its possible without rolling. What is a good coilover in the 1500 range that is stiffer?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
You really ought to consider springs alone. Let me give you the background to my statement.
On my first, AP1 (bought in 1999), S2K, I first got Comptech perches and stiffer springs. It improved track performance but only marginally. I then got Mugen N-zero. Outstanding! Just outstanding. But......repair was a 4 month cycle shipping them off to Japan. I then went AP2. It's had Koni, Ground Control kit, Spoon (big $), KW V3 (more $) and Ohlins (just $). I'm now 73, don't track much anymore, and don't need the tricked-out suspension. I sold my Ohlins and reinstalled the original OEM shocks with H&R springs. I'm amazed at how competent the handling and ride is with the OEM dampers. So, I suggest that you consider springs alone as a first stab.
On my first, AP1 (bought in 1999), S2K, I first got Comptech perches and stiffer springs. It improved track performance but only marginally. I then got Mugen N-zero. Outstanding! Just outstanding. But......repair was a 4 month cycle shipping them off to Japan. I then went AP2. It's had Koni, Ground Control kit, Spoon (big $), KW V3 (more $) and Ohlins (just $). I'm now 73, don't track much anymore, and don't need the tricked-out suspension. I sold my Ohlins and reinstalled the original OEM shocks with H&R springs. I'm amazed at how competent the handling and ride is with the OEM dampers. So, I suggest that you consider springs alone as a first stab.
#3
^What he said.
Lowering springs are usually soft...but even if they were stiff...you cannot count on springs to prevent rubbing. The stock shock will use the bumpstop to limit travel at a pre-engineered point.
Most coilovers also rely HEAVILY on bumpstops. Others have so much travel that they will allow interference. And most (full body) coilovers are complex to set up. I realise that a lot of people follow like 3 steps:
-Un-box.
-bolt on.
-Ride around trying to convince yourself you haven't made mistakes.
But it shouldn't be done like that. You may have too much...or too little travel.
If you're well versed with suspension, you can, of course give it a go.
Coilovers with relatively stiff springs in your price range:
-Fortune Auto (order them with stiff springs).
-AMR (order them with stiff springs).
-Koni/GC (order them with stiff springs...dont plan on lowering much).
-Tein Monosport...I think these are 12K/10K?
S2000's have in-wheel suspensions. Spend your time on setup. Or your wheel will eat your fender/bumper.
Lowering springs are usually soft...but even if they were stiff...you cannot count on springs to prevent rubbing. The stock shock will use the bumpstop to limit travel at a pre-engineered point.
Most coilovers also rely HEAVILY on bumpstops. Others have so much travel that they will allow interference. And most (full body) coilovers are complex to set up. I realise that a lot of people follow like 3 steps:
-Un-box.
-bolt on.
-Ride around trying to convince yourself you haven't made mistakes.
But it shouldn't be done like that. You may have too much...or too little travel.
If you're well versed with suspension, you can, of course give it a go.
Coilovers with relatively stiff springs in your price range:
-Fortune Auto (order them with stiff springs).
-AMR (order them with stiff springs).
-Koni/GC (order them with stiff springs...dont plan on lowering much).
-Tein Monosport...I think these are 12K/10K?
S2000's have in-wheel suspensions. Spend your time on setup. Or your wheel will eat your fender/bumper.
#4
Thanks B serious, just read a thread on the fortune 510s with you. I believe fortune 500s in 12k/10k is the best for my situation. I was unaware you could order them with custom rates.
Thanks
Thanks
#5
Have you looked in the HKS Hipermax IV SPs? These come built with 16k spring rates all around. Even though they are that high of a spring rate the dampers are tuned to match perfectly so the ride is not overly stiff people say. Also, these are pre-set height and dampening out of the box. HKS does a lot of research on USA roads to set up the coilovers to their optimum settings. That doesnt mean you cant adjust them, but you can just bolt them up without touching anything.These may be what you are looking for. Check them out:
HKS Hipermax IV SP Coilovers for the 2000-2009 Honda S2000 | KamiSpeed.com
HKS Hipermax IV SP Coilovers for the 2000-2009 Honda S2000 | KamiSpeed.com
#6
Originally Posted by bb6kid
Used to be in the Honda scene several years ago but never dabbled with S2000s. Picking up my second S2000, first one I left stock then sold it and I need some suspension advice. This is not my daily driver, going to do some spirited drives throughout the week. I am more than likely going to run RPF1s 17, +45, 215/225 up front and 245/255 in the rear and going to try and NOT roll the fenders so I am wanting a coilover with a stiffer spring rate to limit the rubbing. I know it will rub some but after talking to a few people with this set up, its possible without rolling. What is a good coilover in the 1500 range that is stiffer?
Thanks
Thanks
If you slam the car and run a whole bunch of camber you are going to ruin the roll center and performance of the car.
Just live with rolled fenders or go with a friendlier offset.
Trust me, I tried all kinds of permutations on my ap2. Including a light roll as I was trying to avoid pulling the fenders. This was on 225/255 rs3s with -3 degrees of camber with Js s2 Joints and kw clubsports.
In the end I ditched the wheels. On my friends car with tc105n with a +49 we still had to roll and relocate and delete tabs.
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