Hi guys, I want to write a thread after using the Nitron R3 after a few track days. I have tried JRZ red 2-way, JRZ blue 3-way, eibach R2 Evasive spec (which eibach discontinued), and I am currently using Nitron R3.
I heard that Nitron, an English brand, was part of Elite Performance last year, and I did some research on this suspension brand.
My current setup uses a 16kg/16kg spring rate, which is the same as my last shock, an Eibach R2 Evasive spec.
I paid about 4800 USD for this three-way coilover last year, in October. If you guys are familiar with other famous brands such as JRZ, Moton, AST, MCS, TTX, and KW Racing, they are more than 5500 USD. In other words, Nitron R3 is relatively cheaper than other brands.
My Nitron R3 has an extensive damping force range from full soft to full hard. I asked them to send me the dyno chart. Yes, you need to ask them to give it to you. And sometimes they do not send it to you if you ask them from NitronUSA. I got this answer from the Nitron people at the SEMA Show 2025.
The default is piggyback, not a remote reservoir, but you can ask for a remote one and specify the length you want. I chose the piggyback because it is easy to install and does not require thinking about where to locate the caster or measuring the length required. Piggyback is good enough for most people. I know it is hard to reach, but you do not need to adjust the low/high speed compression frequently. In most cases, you only need to adjust the rebound.
Clicks are apparent, and you can feel the difference between each one.
Shock is a good amount of low-speed compression, so less body roll in the corner.
On the highway, it can absorb a good amount of the force when the ground is very uneven.
Rebound, of course, is good enough to support the spring rate—no extra movement.
Travel length, currently, I feel fine.
Con:
The shock is short, in my opinion. When setting to 1/3 droop for the travel and maxing out the fork length, which requires a minimum 25mm thread with the fork. The ride height is still too low. It will cause the tire to contact the frame on the front in high-speed cornering. I don't want to get more bump stops by decreasing the travel length. My idea is to add the spacer on the tophat or ask Nitron to send me a longer fork ( I have confirmed with Nitron Boss regarding a 10mm longer fork)
Overall, I recommend people look at it when they have a budget above 4800 USD. I will compare the Nitron R3 with the Ohlins TTX with the same spring rate later to give an update.

This is a clear description from nitron R3 for Honda S2000 that you usually cannot find this specific.

this is the service sheet when you recieve it.

Just asking: longer fork or thicker top hat!!!




Front UCA mounting reinforcement

I added 25mm roll center correction, a significant change!!!

This dyno is one of my Front ones; there should be four charts in total.


Here is the Video of Zygrene reviewing my car. (At that time, I did not put on Blacktrax Kingpin spherical bushing, JS Racing Rollcenter Correction, bump steer, and ASM reinforcement bars yet)

 

Hi Setsuna!

I've seen your car at Sonoma several times, I didn't realize it's that's built up!
I should come say hi next time!

Curious, what does the Nitrons offer over the JRZs?
What did you notice after installing the ASM reinforcement bars? Assuming these are the 3 piece floor bar

 

Nice! I was just watching Zygrene's video of your car yesterday. Baller.

Curious that you kept the bumpstops at full length and didn't cut them. Any issues with coming into contact with them in high compression areas?

 

hi, I definitely feel more rigidity after installing all 5 pieces of ASM Bar, including front and rear upper and lower and three bars underneath.

price matters! For the same performance JRZ BLUE 3way cost like 6xxx, nitron r3 only cost 48xx. As you can see, Nitron R3 is cheap enough for most people trying 3way coilover with good damping. Nitron from UK is very pro, but USA side needs some pro people. My shock built at UK. Difference people build may resulting different damping forces

 

no need to cut the bump stop rubber, because travel length is long enough for me currently. I did not see any issue yet. And lazy to disassemble the nitron coilover. Problem of most aftermarket coilovers is that the total length is shorter than OEM shock ( not travel) resulting problems when you want certain roll center!!! Moreover, it will compress in high speed corners and make front frame contact with tire! Which is not a good thing !! Personal perspective, S2000 doesn’t need to lower too much it increases handling. Suspension geometry is designed to be using certain ride height. One more thing I think good about Nitron R3 is that the forks can be used to adjust some length of bump-stop, while other brands does not offer that.

For high speed compression, I didn’t feel any issues yet. Confidently riding on the curb or apex, no problem!!! It will absorb them! For highway or street, much comfortable than 2way coilover. I believe a good coilover should not have any problems on damping parts.

 

For full bump stop rubber, that means less contact tire with frame! No issues on high compression area! You won’t feel hard when going on apex or curb

 

These are monotube dampers correct? Not like the KW or Ohlin's TTX which are triple and twin tube(like Koni yellow) dampers respectively.

 

it has the canister

 

What I mean is the damper internal construction. A monotube has a single tube and the damper piston floats in that tube. These dampers have their piston floating in oil and uses high pressure gas to manage the oil and to keep it from cavitating as the piston moves back and forth.

Twin tube like KW or TTX use lower gas pressure, and have 2 tubes an inner tube where the damper piston slides, and displaces oil into an outer tube. I guess by canister you mean that this is a monotube damper that uses high gas pressure to control damping like the factory Showa units.

 

oh Yes, it is monotube