Ohlins DFV questions. Thinking about making the 12K/10K swap.
11-12-2017, 08:57 PM
#21
Thread Starter
Hmm, I am running 10/10 and @ 10 clicks from stiff it takes some bumps better than my M-sport suspension on my E90. I really like the 10/10 on a staggered 225/255, that said I don't know that stiffer is going to make this car more planted. This car isn't a car that ever feels planted IMO, for me to drive it fast I am always fighting the car. Don't get me wrong the car sets, but it will never be an E36 M3. Stiffer suspension is going to give you quicker response but unless you swap tire compounds I don't think it will feel more "planted".
All that said, I love driving this car and if you get use to driving it like your driving a kart it can be driven fast. The key IMO is finding the setup that is the most predictable and provides the widest range before it bites you in the a$$
All that said, I love driving this car and if you get use to driving it like your driving a kart it can be driven fast. The key IMO is finding the setup that is the most predictable and provides the widest range before it bites you in the a$$
If I can maintain civility on the street while using those springs...then I'll be happy.
I'd likely start using aero at the same time and do 14/14 or similar.
11-13-2017, 01:30 PM
#22
The whole notion that 12/10 is required to control oversteer is completely misguided in my opinion. If anything it leads to more snap oversteer (which happens after the car understeers and then regains grip). I think many people just haven't experienced a car actually being neutral and so many are just used to a small amount of understeer. A square spring setup won't oversteer on most setups, it just won't understeer as much at the limit lime most setups with stiffer springs will. Each driver is different, but learning to drive a neutral setup at the limit will almost always be quicker than a setup with mild understeer.
11/11 would be a great street tire oriented setup that should retain comfort and compliance, have correct rear travel, and won't feel too soft on track. For street only 10/10 is great but a little soft on track with tires like the RE71R.
11/11 would be a great street tire oriented setup that should retain comfort and compliance, have correct rear travel, and won't feel too soft on track. For street only 10/10 is great but a little soft on track with tires like the RE71R.
11-16-2017, 06:11 PM
#23
Thread Starter
The whole notion that 12/10 is required to control oversteer is completely misguided in my opinion. If anything it leads to more snap oversteer (which happens after the car understeers and then regains grip). I think many people just haven't experienced a car actually being neutral and so many are just used to a small amount of understeer. A square spring setup won't oversteer on most setups, it just won't understeer as much at the limit lime most setups with stiffer springs will. Each driver is different, but learning to drive a neutral setup at the limit will almost always be quicker than a setup with mild understeer.
11/11 would be a great street tire oriented setup that should retain comfort and compliance, have correct rear travel, and won't feel too soft on track. For street only 10/10 is great but a little soft on track with tires like the RE71R.
11/11 would be a great street tire oriented setup that should retain comfort and compliance, have correct rear travel, and won't feel too soft on track. For street only 10/10 is great but a little soft on track with tires like the RE71R.
I've had the car on square (9.5K) springs and square (255/40) tires before. With stock 00 bars.
I felt that with the staggered 12K/10K spring setup, the car was more predictable. I was able to just drive it more confidently. Lap times improved slightly...and I just changed my driving slightly so that the car didn't understeer badly...and if it did understeer, I just let it happen without scrubbing speed.
I treated slight oversteer the same way. Again...until last year, the car was all MY00 chassis. Swaybars, subframe...all of it. No bumpsteer kits or RCA's. So taming the oversteer was good for the car.
It still drives like a S2000.
I may try a square 10K setup at some point. I think 11K in the back with stock valving wouldn't be all that fun on Midwest roads.
They're not smooth like California roads are.
11-17-2017, 09:25 AM
#24
B serious can you post a pic of how your car sits right now?
11-17-2017, 12:34 PM
#26
I've had the car on square (9.5K) springs and square (255/40) tires before. With stock 00 bars.
I felt that with the staggered 12K/10K spring setup, the car was more predictable. I was able to just drive it more confidently. Lap times improved slightly...and I just changed my driving slightly so that the car didn't understeer badly...and if it did understeer, I just let it happen without scrubbing speed.
I treated slight oversteer the same way. Again...until last year, the car was all MY00 chassis. Swaybars, subframe...all of it. No bumpsteer kits or RCA's. So taming the oversteer was good for the car.
It still drives like a S2000.
I may try a square 10K setup at some point. I think 11K in the back with stock valving wouldn't be all that fun on Midwest roads.
They're not smooth like California roads are.
I felt that with the staggered 12K/10K spring setup, the car was more predictable. I was able to just drive it more confidently. Lap times improved slightly...and I just changed my driving slightly so that the car didn't understeer badly...and if it did understeer, I just let it happen without scrubbing speed.
I treated slight oversteer the same way. Again...until last year, the car was all MY00 chassis. Swaybars, subframe...all of it. No bumpsteer kits or RCA's. So taming the oversteer was good for the car.
It still drives like a S2000.
I may try a square 10K setup at some point. I think 11K in the back with stock valving wouldn't be all that fun on Midwest roads.
They're not smooth like California roads are.
12-01-2017, 07:53 AM
#27
When moving to 12k/10k set up on a standard ohlins are the upgraded springs suppose to be shorter ? I was told by seller it should be 7 inch because it will compress less and to keep ride height down ?
12-01-2017, 08:56 AM
#28
You can run 7" out back but you may run into issues up front. I recently upgraded my springs (650/550lb Eibachs) and I tried to use 7" front and rear. Worked fine out back but up front even with the lower spring perch spun up all the way the spring could move just a little bit.
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S2000_916 (12-01-2017)
12-01-2017, 10:08 AM
#29
Thread Starter
I don't see any reason to run 7" springs.
The shock bodies are threaded.
If the seller is suggesting running a spring GAP rather than spring preload, there's plenty of room to do so up front.
You probably want to use negative preload (spring gap) up front with 12K springs. 0 or 2mm preload with 12K's would give you a bit too much compression travel. The risk is the tire eating the frame rail or fender on a big bump.
There's plenty of room for 8 or even 10" springs up front...even with some gap.
The rear needs about 9-13mm of preload with 10K springs. So...definitely no point in using shorter springs. You may even run out of thread with shorter springs.
The limiting factor in rear height is the Ohlins rear cup. Use pass thru lower mounts in back if you want ride height similar (or lower) than mine.
DON'T use a spring gap on the rear shock. You need to find the right amount of positive preload.
The shock bodies are threaded.
If the seller is suggesting running a spring GAP rather than spring preload, there's plenty of room to do so up front.
You probably want to use negative preload (spring gap) up front with 12K springs. 0 or 2mm preload with 12K's would give you a bit too much compression travel. The risk is the tire eating the frame rail or fender on a big bump.
There's plenty of room for 8 or even 10" springs up front...even with some gap.
The rear needs about 9-13mm of preload with 10K springs. So...definitely no point in using shorter springs. You may even run out of thread with shorter springs.
The limiting factor in rear height is the Ohlins rear cup. Use pass thru lower mounts in back if you want ride height similar (or lower) than mine.
DON'T use a spring gap on the rear shock. You need to find the right amount of positive preload.
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S2000_916 (12-01-2017)
12-01-2017, 04:09 PM
#30
thanks guys , the wrong spring was sent to me. a new 12k 8 inch spring is being sent. thanks