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View Poll Results: What rear preload setting did you use?
Ohlins spec (2mm)
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More preload (specify)
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Ohlins DFV rear preload settings

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Old 07-05-2017, 08:07 AM
  #131  

 
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Originally Posted by mjensen771
So B, say I have the 10KF and 8K rear and I want as much free travel as possible. Say I also have the SBG rear lower mounts. What should by preload be? Also is this independent of ride hight. Looking to drop 1.5 inches.
Probably 2mm front and like...17ish mm rear, if your car is stock weight. Good blend of compression and droop travel that way.

Do the preload setting and lock it up tight BEFORE installing them to the car.

After that, just adjust the car's ride height to your desired value using the bottom bracket (lower cup) adjustment.

Originally Posted by Apex1.0
I am finally getting to installing the 10k springs I have for the rear DFV. My target ride height is 13.25-13.375. If I recall the ideal preload would be around 10mm for a 10k spring, right? At that preload, how low can I get the ride height?

If I can't make my target I will change it or the preload. I am done buying suspension parts.
~9-10mm (0.35 to 0.39) on a 10KG (560LB) rear spring should result in 1" free travel.

One can use this equation (REMEMBER TO STANDARDIZE YOUR UNITS):

[(corner force)/(spring rate)] - (preload) = shock compression.

In your case (assuming a stock weight S2000, full tank, no passengers or extra weight). And assuming you want a shock compression of 1.13"...resulting in 1" of free travel. Base model ohlins rear shock (using english units):

[835/(560)] - (preload)= 1.13

Solving for preload gives us 0.36ish.

9mm is close enough to 0.36.

What is your ride height right now? Are you at 13.25 right now and you're using 2mm preload on 8KG springs?

If so...using the same equation above; solving for shock compression, your shock currently is compressed ~1.79".

So with your new setup, you're raising your shock up ~0.65 or 17mm.

So to maintain the same height, you'll need to drop your shock 0.65" further than current into the lower cup.

Do you have 0.65" (17mm) of lower cup left? If so, you can maintain your current height.

If not, then subtract the difference (x 1.73)...and that's the projected change in height.

Example:
Only have 0.25" of cup left? You raised the shock shaft length 0.65"?

0.65 - 0.25 = 0.4.

0.4 × 1.73 = ride height change.

that result is 0.69.

Your car will sit 0.69" higher than prior in this example.

What lower cups are you using? I doubt you'll be able to get 13.25ish and have a 1" free travel using the standard ohlins cups.
Old 07-05-2017, 09:12 AM
  #132  

 
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Just finished installing mine and I'd recommend doing everything metric as it simplifies things. This tape measure up from
Amazon Amazon
made life easier.
Old 07-05-2017, 09:29 AM
  #133  

 
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Originally Posted by DanielB
Just finished installing mine and I'd recommend doing everything metric as it simplifies things. This tape measure up from Amazon made life easier.

Yes, using metric as your primary unit will simplify things. The thread pitch is 1.5mm. The spring infos are all in metric, etc.

If you're more comfortable with English measurements...just convert to mm when its convenient. Just be careful to convert properly.
Old 07-05-2017, 12:35 PM
  #134  

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Originally Posted by B serious

What lower cups are you using? I doubt you'll be able to get 13.25ish and have a 1" free travel using the standard ohlins cups.
Well that's the question. I am using the standard cup. 10k and 10mm will give me about an inch of travel which is what I want. I am using 6mm with 8k now and I am at 13.25. I will go up to 13.375 or drop preload if needed.
Old 07-05-2017, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Apex1.0
Well that's the question. I am using the standard cup. 10k and 10mm will give me about an inch of travel which is what I want. I am using 6mm with 8k now and I am at 13.25. I will go up to 13.375 or drop preload if needed.
Buy cups, bruv. Gives you much more flexibility in setup.

You've already come this far lol. No point in stopping short.
Old 07-06-2017, 07:16 AM
  #136  

 
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Originally Posted by Apex1.0
Well that's the question. I am using the standard cup. 10k and 10mm will give me about an inch of travel which is what I want. I am using 6mm with 8k now and I am at 13.25. I will go up to 13.375 or drop preload if needed.
I got plenty of drop at a good preload. With 10k rear springs, Ohlins bottom mounts bottomed, and 11mm preload I am maybe a touch over 13.25" which was plenty of drop for me.
Old 07-07-2017, 07:12 AM
  #137  

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OK sounds good. I don't mind going to 13 3/8. I used to run 13.00, but life gets so much easier by adding 1/4 or 3/8 inch of ride height. At 13:00, I can't get the quickjack under the car without driving up on blocks. Also, the drivers door will hit the trailer tires when loading.
Old 07-07-2017, 08:41 PM
  #138  

 
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With the old recommended 2mm of preload and the little shock travel before hitting the bump stops, that means Ohlins designed the rear to work with the rear bump stop as being part of the spring right? That would make sense since the off the shelf spring rates are 10/8, which is softer in rear compared to the front for many other manufacturer off the shelf setups. Does that mean if you put more preload in the rear and get more shock travel, therefore not using the bump stop as a spring, you should also run a stiffer spring in the rear, which many seem to moving up to 10 kgmm.

Edit:
Not sure if what I said was clear, but w/ more travel in the rear and staying off the bump stops, that means the bump stop doesn't contribute to the effective spring rate of the rear? Will this cause the car to understeer a bit more?

Last edited by md6380; 07-08-2017 at 10:00 AM. Reason: Add clarity
Old 08-21-2017, 03:15 AM
  #139  

 
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Default Top mounts

I noticed different part numbers for the top mounts in the US manual. In the European manual there are no part numbers...

I thought all four mounts are the same... What's the difference?
Old 08-27-2017, 12:52 AM
  #140  
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Top mounts are the same but the spacers are different front vs rear.


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