View Poll Results: What rear preload setting did you use?
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Ohlins DFV rear preload settings
08-27-2017, 12:55 AM
#141
With the old recommended 2mm of preload and the little shock travel before hitting the bump stops, that means Ohlins designed the rear to work with the rear bump stop as being part of the spring right? That would make sense since the off the shelf spring rates are 10/8, which is softer in rear compared to the front for many other manufacturer off the shelf setups. Does that mean if you put more preload in the rear and get more shock travel, therefore not using the bump stop as a spring, you should also run a stiffer spring in the rear, which many seem to moving up to 10 kgmm.
Edit:
Not sure if what I said was clear, but w/ more travel in the rear and staying off the bump stops, that means the bump stop doesn't contribute to the effective spring rate of the rear? Will this cause the car to understeer a bit more?
Edit:
Not sure if what I said was clear, but w/ more travel in the rear and staying off the bump stops, that means the bump stop doesn't contribute to the effective spring rate of the rear? Will this cause the car to understeer a bit more?
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Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
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- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
08-27-2017, 02:15 PM
#142
Maybe it's a stupid question, but looking at the two manuals, the OLD ohlins has 2mm of spring preload, and 28mm of lower bracket height and 420mm of shock absorber lenght, and the vehicle is lowered approximately 25mm than standard vehicle height.
The NEW ohlins has 9mm of spring preload, and 22mm of lower bracket height and no value for shock absorber lenght, and the vehicle is lowered approximately 25mm than standard vehicle height
So, now I'm wondering, how is it possible that on the new one with 9mm of springs preload, and less height on lower bracket, the car has the same lowering?
The NEW ohlins has 9mm of spring preload, and 22mm of lower bracket height and no value for shock absorber lenght, and the vehicle is lowered approximately 25mm than standard vehicle height
So, now I'm wondering, how is it possible that on the new one with 9mm of springs preload, and less height on lower bracket, the car has the same lowering?
I installed my Öhlins last weekend and I used the 28mm (which is still in the European manual). For the front I used 104mm of free thread length, but I could not get the car lowered evenly. I will probably have to adjust/lower the rear again, but this will cost some preload.
In addition, with 104mm front, the car was lowered slightly more than 25mm - I measured 28mm.
10-13-2017, 08:10 PM
#143
I switched to the new Ohlins suggested 9 mm preload in the rear about 1.5 months ago. On the street it rides smoother. I take a back country road to work that gets pretty bumpy in some spots and it's riding better. I was probably on the bump stops in the bumpy areas before.
I also autocrossed twice since. I've overall been faster, but I don't know if that's just from more seat time. One bad thing, I'm now getting inside rear wheel lift in tight corners. I'm not sure if this is because there is less droop travel or because I'm just getting faster and have found some tight turns where it happens. In both autocrosses, I found a tight turn where I would get inside rear wheel lift, which then opened the diff and killed by drive. Before the 2nd autocross, I tried to raise the front a bit (3 turns, about 4.5 mm) to see if it would help, which it did a bit, but it didn't go away. Note that I have an '03 AP1 which has a thicker OEM rear sway bar than later years, so that probably doesn't help. I'm not sure how I want to try to address this yet. A friend has a spare AP2 rear bar which I might try for the last autocross event of the season next month.
I also autocrossed twice since. I've overall been faster, but I don't know if that's just from more seat time. One bad thing, I'm now getting inside rear wheel lift in tight corners. I'm not sure if this is because there is less droop travel or because I'm just getting faster and have found some tight turns where it happens. In both autocrosses, I found a tight turn where I would get inside rear wheel lift, which then opened the diff and killed by drive. Before the 2nd autocross, I tried to raise the front a bit (3 turns, about 4.5 mm) to see if it would help, which it did a bit, but it didn't go away. Note that I have an '03 AP1 which has a thicker OEM rear sway bar than later years, so that probably doesn't help. I'm not sure how I want to try to address this yet. A friend has a spare AP2 rear bar which I might try for the last autocross event of the season next month.
10-13-2017, 08:27 PM
#144
I switched to the new Ohlins suggested 9 mm preload in the rear about 1.5 months ago. On the street it rides smoother. I take a back country road to work that gets pretty bumpy in some spots and it's riding better. I was probably on the bump stops in the bumpy areas before.
I also autocrossed twice since. I've overall been faster, but I don't know if that's just from more seat time. One bad thing, I'm now getting inside rear wheel lift in tight corners. I'm not sure if this is because there is less droop travel or because I'm just getting faster and have found some tight turns where it happens. In both autocrosses, I found a tight turn where I would get inside rear wheel lift, which then opened the diff and killed by drive. Before the 2nd autocross, I tried to raise the front a bit (3 turns, about 4.5 mm) to see if it would help, which it did a bit, but it didn't go away. Note that I have an '03 AP1 which has a thicker OEM rear sway bar than later years, so that probably doesn't help. I'm not sure how I want to try to address this yet. A friend has a spare AP2 rear bar which I might try for the last autocross event of the season next month.
I also autocrossed twice since. I've overall been faster, but I don't know if that's just from more seat time. One bad thing, I'm now getting inside rear wheel lift in tight corners. I'm not sure if this is because there is less droop travel or because I'm just getting faster and have found some tight turns where it happens. In both autocrosses, I found a tight turn where I would get inside rear wheel lift, which then opened the diff and killed by drive. Before the 2nd autocross, I tried to raise the front a bit (3 turns, about 4.5 mm) to see if it would help, which it did a bit, but it didn't go away. Note that I have an '03 AP1 which has a thicker OEM rear sway bar than later years, so that probably doesn't help. I'm not sure how I want to try to address this yet. A friend has a spare AP2 rear bar which I might try for the last autocross event of the season next month.
This year, I am now using an AP2 rear subframe...and more notably, am using an AP2 rear bar.
I have 13mm of preload now (results in 1" of compression travel because my car is lighter than stock), and I got no inside tire lift this year.
BUT...I was faster last year because my tires were new. So...hard to seperate cause from effect.
Try disconnecting your sway bar.
10-14-2017, 06:03 AM
#145
Even with the 2mm Ohlins setting, I was getting inside lift when I was using a MY00 sway bar. That was last year.
This year, I am now using an AP2 rear subframe...and more notably, am using an AP2 rear bar.
I have 13mm of preload now (results in 1" of compression travel because my car is lighter than stock), and I got no inside tire lift this year.
BUT...I was faster last year because my tires were new. So...hard to seperate cause from effect.
Try disconnecting your sway bar.
This year, I am now using an AP2 rear subframe...and more notably, am using an AP2 rear bar.
I have 13mm of preload now (results in 1" of compression travel because my car is lighter than stock), and I got no inside tire lift this year.
BUT...I was faster last year because my tires were new. So...hard to seperate cause from effect.
Try disconnecting your sway bar.
Are you still on the '00 OEM front sway bar and how did switching to the AP2 rear sway bar change the handling? Does it understeer a lot more? I really like the balance now and being able to steer with my right foot, but having to drive around inside rear tire lift is hurting my times.
Also, why switch to an AP2 rear subframe? Did you switch to all AP2 rear suspension too to get rid of twitchiness people complain about in the AP1's?
10-14-2017, 09:54 PM
#146
Good to know someone is experiencing the same. What tires are you running? I think more grip will contribute to the inside rear wheel lift. I'm on Kumho PS91, which is a Pilot Super Sport equivalent, so it's not super grippy like a RE71 or RS3/4.
Are you still on the '00 OEM front sway bar and how did switching to the AP2 rear sway bar change the handling? Does it understeer a lot more? I really like the balance now and being able to steer with my right foot, but having to drive around inside rear tire lift is hurting my times.
Also, why switch to an AP2 rear subframe? Did you switch to all AP2 rear suspension too to get rid of twitchiness people complain about in the AP1's?
Are you still on the '00 OEM front sway bar and how did switching to the AP2 rear sway bar change the handling? Does it understeer a lot more? I really like the balance now and being able to steer with my right foot, but having to drive around inside rear tire lift is hurting my times.
Also, why switch to an AP2 rear subframe? Did you switch to all AP2 rear suspension too to get rid of twitchiness people complain about in the AP1's?
I am on RE71R's.
The car is much more predictable now with the AP2 rear subframe and sway bar. The AP2 rear subframe features less agressive bumpsteer geometry than the AP1. I can drive it fast more consistently.
I am using the MY00 front bar.
There is definitely some increased understeer.
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