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Ohlins DFV's installed

Old 08-05-2015, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rmerchant3 View Post
Originally Posted by Urge' timestamp='1438057116' post='23695186
Any updates or track time on these?
So I finally got to try the suspension out in a more demanding manner. I took a trip to deals gap (dragon's tail) this past weekend and pushed the tires to their limits. I have Bridgestone Potenza RE760 sports all around with sizes 225 and 265. I had just made a trip to deals gap on the same tires and stock suspension two months ago, so I still had a fresh idea of what to compare to. The car was so much more predictable around the corners. The roll was much eliminated and getting the car to transfer and settle its weight was way easier than before. I got to the point to where I could feel when tires would lose their grip and slide a bit. The suspension was so in tune with the car that it was easy to find the edge and be sure not to overstep it. So i'm adding safety as another perk to this suspension.

I plan on purchasing some of the pictures taking while I was up there. I'll attach a picture that I purchased on my visit two months ago with one that I have snipped from this trip to show the difference in body roll.

Ohlins left and stock right

[attachment=83245:Capture.JPG]

I have two minor complaints and it could by my doings. I was getting a loud crunch sound when taking right hand corners and loading the left front suspension. That, and a metal knocking sound when the suspension drops such as when going over a pot hole or other imperfection. I need to double check and make sure nothing has come loose since installation. But other than that, this suspension is still exceeding what I thought I was expecting.
Love that picture, noticeable difference in roll reduction.

On the crunch, I agree could be the fender liner. How wide are the tires in the front?
As for the metal sound, could be a spring coming loose? Can you confirm the 2mm preload or add maybe 1-2mm. Also, check all the top mounts and A arm links. I had another customer had some loose bolts in both those areas.
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by B serious View Post
The crunch and/or the metallic sound may be a front fender liner contacting the tire. Look for rub marks on the liner surface or on the liner fastening pins.

Hopefully you didn't change the spring height to lower the car?

Originally Posted by Urge View Post
Love that picture, noticeable difference in roll reduction.

On the crunch, I agree could be the fender liner. How wide are the tires in the front?
As for the metal sound, could be a spring coming loose? Can you confirm the 2mm preload or add maybe 1-2mm. Also, check all the top mounts and A arm links. I had another customer had some loose bolts in both those areas.
That thought for fender or liner rub had crossed my mind. It isn't lowered much at all, but the compression could be enough to make it rub with the 225's up front. I readjusted the preload to the springs after driving it for two weeks since they settled a little and were loose from the initial 2mm of preload. It is possible that they have settled some more again. Nothing has been done as for messing with the height by means of preload adjustment. I haven't had a chance to look at it since I got it back from the mountains. I plan to check all corresponding bolts and nuts as well while I am there. I am waiting on a fuel pump before I do anything since it decided to fail on me during the trip.
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:41 AM
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The springs themselves wouldn't make clanking noises even if they were loose when the suspension is at full droop. Because once you set the car on top of them...they are no longer loose.

I was checking to see if maybe the spring height had been changed so much that the bump stop was active.

Top hat nuts are a common source of clunking....as are sway bar links. Noise from worn links sometimes suddenly surfaces after a suspension install because the links have been removed, moved around, and handled forcefully. Stiffer spring/shock settings can also expose a worn link that was previously quiet when the suspension was softer.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by B serious View Post
The springs themselves wouldn't make clanking noises even if they were loose when the suspension is at full droop. Because once you set the car on top of them...they are no longer loose.

I was checking to see if maybe the spring height had been changed so much that the bump stop was active.

Top hat nuts are a common source of clunking....as are sway bar links. Noise from worn links sometimes suddenly surfaces after a suspension install because the links have been removed, moved around, and handled forcefully. Stiffer spring/shock settings can also expose a worn link that was previously quiet when the suspension was softer.
The springs could clank if they were loose at full droop on a lift if the vehicle were to hit a large pot hole or dip in the road and the spring reacted faster than the vehicle could "fall" thus putting the spring in free motion (loose) for a moment no? That was my thought process on it at least. But yeah, the springs were set to no more than 2mm of preload.

When I get it in the shop and check everything, i'll unbolt the links and drive it around and see if it helps.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:40 AM
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No...the springs are compressed as long as the tires are on the ground. You'd have to become airborne for the spring to come loose again.

If your S2000 weighs approx 700lb per rear corner...the spring is compressed about 1" with the car fully on the ground. So the 2mm freeplay is long gone.

Also...even if your tire leaves the ground for a split second, the spring is what out-strokes the damper. If the spring runs out of length...the damper will stop expanding because there's no force expanding it anymore. You'd have to be airborne for a measurable amount of time before the weight of the rest of the suspension brought the damper to full droop position.

These type of dampers don't return themselves to full expanded position for quite some time. They're not air springs. If you had a stock shock...or even this öhlins shock seperated from the spring, you could compress it and let it go. It would only very slowly return to full expanded position (if ever).
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:51 AM
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Double check that the bolts attaching the top hat assemblies to the pistons haven't come loose. I had one get loose after a few hundred miles. The symptom was metal clunking when the wheel was in a rebound motion.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:11 AM
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^yes. For some reason, tophat center nuts often come loose. I see this on assemblies that have a single nut rather than a set of jam nuts. KW uses a set of jam nuts....as does Koni. I've never had those come loose.

On the other hand, I have experienced three cars with Teins, and other cars with coilovers from manufacturers that use a single (non-nylon inserted) nut, having loose center nuts after some use.

I wouldn't use loctite or nylon locking nuts on most aftermarket coilovers, BTW. They don't have a very good way to hold the shaft from turning. The holding hex is normally pretty shitty.

OEM assemblies use nylon nuts.
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by B serious View Post
No...the springs are compressed as long as the tires are on the ground. You'd have to become airborne for the spring to come loose again.

If your S2000 weighs approx 700lb per rear corner...the spring is compressed about 1" with the car fully on the ground. So the 2mm freeplay is long gone.

Also...even if your tire leaves the ground for a split second, the spring is what out-strokes the damper. If the spring runs out of length...the damper will stop expanding because there's no force expanding it anymore. You'd have to be airborne for a measurable amount of time before the weight of the rest of the suspension brought the damper to full droop position.

These type of dampers don't return themselves to full expanded position for quite some time. They're not air springs. If you had a stock shock...or even this öhlins shock seperated from the spring, you could compress it and let it go. It would only very slowly return to full expanded position (if ever).
Ah, of course!!! I forgot about the compression and rebound rate for the shock. Thank you. Sometimes I get into thinking about something so much and I overlook the small stuff.


Originally Posted by thomsbrain View Post
Double check that the bolts attaching the top hat assemblies to the pistons haven't come loose. I had one get loose after a few hundred miles. The symptom was metal clunking when the wheel was in a rebound motion.
Originally Posted by B serious View Post
^yes. For some reason, tophat center nuts often come loose. I see this on assemblies that have a single nut rather than a set of jam nuts. KW uses a set of jam nuts....as does Koni. I've never had those come loose.

On the other hand, I have experienced three cars with Teins, and other cars with coilovers from manufacturers that use a single (non-nylon inserted) nut, having loose center nuts after some use.

I wouldn't use loctite or nylon locking nuts on most aftermarket coilovers, BTW. They don't have a very good way to hold the shaft from turning. The holding hex is normally pretty shitty.

OEM assemblies use nylon nuts.
Will be checking this as well. I have had numerous shocks where the allen stripped out as well. They are about as useful as the allen holes on the swaybar endlinks.
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:36 PM
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Lol yes. If the shock shaft is rusty...those stupid nuts are pretty much permanently attached. An external hex that rises well beyond the shock shaft threads would have been nice. Though I'm not sure there's much room for that on the front (hood clearance).
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Old 08-08-2015, 11:16 AM
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Ohlins left and stock right
[attachment=83245:Capture.JPG]
[/quote]
What sway bars; settings are you running?
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