Ohlins DFV and Urge review
#83
Thanks for posting the remote info Cheers! I'm considering them, my S is more street than track and these would be nice to have so I could leave all the trunk plastics in place and still make damper adjustments. I wonder if the passenger side would be flexible enough to clear the spare tire? The knob is already close to the spare, and that remote cable end appears longer than the stock knob?
yamahaSHO - Maybe they would sell just a single remote? Or you could go in on a set with another owner, also I'm sure you wouldn't have a problem selling the other one.
yamahaSHO - Maybe they would sell just a single remote? Or you could go in on a set with another owner, also I'm sure you wouldn't have a problem selling the other one.
#85
Roll center adjustment is a good way to also get a lower ride height, as well as making corrections to the geometry. Particularly in the rear where the height adjustment can be someone limited. Even with just the 12mm rcas in the rear I have a lot of room for adjustment to go lower.
#86
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1454079384' post='23865874
The only thing I am running are the Challenge offset bushings up front to allow for more camber. Other than that, my suspension setup consists of coilovers and sway bars.
#87
I do not mean to bring up a random thread from the depths of the forum, but it seems valuable and not too old. I am a complete suspension/alignment/driving novice trying to learn and you seem to have an informed opinion. I am beginning to auto-x my ap1 and recently had an alignment with a reputable performance shop. The tech is experienced with S2k's and gave me -.1 degrees front toe when I asked for an alignment based on my needs. First of all, my understanding is that the front end of the ap1 and ap2 have the same geometry, so we are comparing apples to apples.
I am just curious as to why having a small amount of negative toe in the front seems to be beneficial on these cars. Most everything else I researched said to set at zero or very close to it. Again, I am just beginning to autocross with the car and trying to figure things out. I was bewildered that the tech suggested the negative toe, but I trusted his opinion. My car handled great, but seemed to understeer way more than expected, particularly in the wet. I think my issue is tire related but that is a different topic. Are you still running similar settings on the front end, why or why not?
I am just curious as to why having a small amount of negative toe in the front seems to be beneficial on these cars. Most everything else I researched said to set at zero or very close to it. Again, I am just beginning to autocross with the car and trying to figure things out. I was bewildered that the tech suggested the negative toe, but I trusted his opinion. My car handled great, but seemed to understeer way more than expected, particularly in the wet. I think my issue is tire related but that is a different topic. Are you still running similar settings on the front end, why or why not?
#88
Thread Starter
The toe out up front is for faster turn-in. I ran it at 0 until I got the car and driver where I wanted it. I really only use the car for track, so I don't really care about long term wear for street driving.
#89
I'm about to pull the trigger a set of Ohlins DFV for my 2007 Ap2 direct from Japan. Going for the springless version and adding Swift springs.
Seeing as you have the same setup can you confirm the Swift spring part numbers?
I've narrowed it down to the metric Swift ID65 x 8" length .
Z65-203-080 (8kg rear)
Z65-203-100 (10kg front)
Just wanted to double check I have the right part numbers! Would be a very expensive error if I got it wrong.
Seeing as you have the same setup can you confirm the Swift spring part numbers?
I've narrowed it down to the metric Swift ID65 x 8" length .
Z65-203-080 (8kg rear)
Z65-203-100 (10kg front)
Just wanted to double check I have the right part numbers! Would be a very expensive error if I got it wrong.
#90
I'm about to pull the trigger a set of Ohlins DFV for my 2007 Ap2 direct from Japan. Going for the springless version and adding Swift springs.
Seeing as you have the same setup can you confirm the Swift spring part numbers?
I've narrowed it down to the metric Swift ID65 x 8" length .
Z65-203-080 (8kg rear)
Z65-203-100 (10kg front)
Just wanted to double check I have the right part numbers! Would be a very expensive error if I got it wrong.
Seeing as you have the same setup can you confirm the Swift spring part numbers?
I've narrowed it down to the metric Swift ID65 x 8" length .
Z65-203-080 (8kg rear)
Z65-203-100 (10kg front)
Just wanted to double check I have the right part numbers! Would be a very expensive error if I got it wrong.