Holeshot121

What is the proper procedure for doing this? Are you supposed to specifically adjust one before the other? Do you have to take the bottom shock mount off to adjust ride height? If not, how are you supposed to turn the shock body?

B serious

Set the spring preload BEFORE installing them. Bushing bind will add artificial spring compression. If you set them up to "2mm" after putting them in the car, you will be on the bumpstops in back.

With their 2mm recommended preload, I am approx 0.6" away from bumpstops in the back (assuming a 2.125" total stroke). My spring starts at 198mm. With the car sitting on the ground, I measured 159mm. So the damper stroked down 39mm (1.53").

2.125 - 1.53 = 0.59".

I will likely add a little more preload. Idk if I'm 100% correct...but 0.17" additional preload should add additional enough force to the spring (about 75lb) to only allow 1.125" of compression, leaving me with 1" stroke.

slangindesign

The instructions show an image with the measurement of the shock for preload and recommended ride height.

The ride height can be adjusted by loosening the locking ring on the shock body (lowest one) and if its off the car you should be able to just turn it by hand to adjust the total length of the shock. If its on the car you will loosen the same ring and use the supplied tools to turn the (locked) top rings to move it up or down. (it will not effect preload if you have the pair of rings locked)

noodels

Interesting,
let us know the results,more over/under steer ?
1.5 mm per turn,cannot remember?
perhaps they are supposed to use bump stops as part of the set up,like Mazda Mx5 ect ?
or the valve being center? I have read about a concern

Holeshot121

I'm a little confused here. I thought I read that you had to adjust the preload after you installed them, not before. Granted, I have poly bushings now, so it's probably a moot point, as they rotate rather freely.

I tried to set my preload first, then adjust my ride height. This was impossible for me, as once the spring is loaded, I was no longer able to turn the shock body to adjust ride height. So I took the preload off, set my ride height, then set the preload again. This worked PERFECT on the fronts. Ride height was almost exactly where I wanted it.

The rears are a different story. I copied Gernby's specs from his post about the R&T's HERE

He used 0.6" of preload on the rear springs, and the height adjustment was completely bottomed out. I bottomed out my rear ride height, then tried to set preload. One side had no trouble setting 0.6" of preload, but the other side, I was only able to get about 0.5" before I ran out of threads on the shock body. So I readjusted the other side to be equal.

Just looking at the droop, I knew it was going to be WAY off. I set the car down on the wheels, and my ride height was like 17" from hub center to fender. LOL!! I don't know if I misinterpreted Gernby's post or what. I have to look at my math again and make sure I didn't do something stupid, but I'm all out of daylight and patience for today.

Here was the droop:

Here is the ride height. My driveway is on an incline, so the blocks make the car sit close to level.

freetors

I don't have Ohlins coilovers but I am wondering just how much shock travel they have. It also seems weird that their ride height adjustment is so limited. I have a set of Fortune Auto coilovers and being able to set the two independently is really nice. On the rear I have the preload set such that there is 1" of droop at the damper and 2" in bump before it hits the bump stop. That gives me 3" of bump travel at the wheel before it hits the bump stop. Then I can set the ride height wherever I want.

Holeshot121

I forgot to mention, I tried to turn the top rings, while locked, in order to spin the shock body. That was actually part of what prompted my post. It worked at first, but at some point it must have started to turn both rings, but not the body. I ended up messing up my preload because of this. And the rings were REALLY hard to turn. I felt like I was going to break or strip something. That's when I packed it in for the night and made this thread.

noodels

Tells you here how too
http://www.roadandtrackbyohlins.com/...MI_HOSMI20.pdf

B serious

I think you have your bottom bracket set way too long or "high".

I don't know that Gernby's install method is accurate.

He talks about setting preload after installing the suspension. With rubber bushings, that doesn't work.

It may explain why he needed to add so much preload.

I installed according to Öhlins' specs BEFORE installing to the car, in order to get a baseline. I got 39mm (1.53") of damper compression at ride height. He got like 2.25" or something.

He said he'd need about 1.125" (28mm) of preload. I *think* I'll need about 6-10mm total. Again...I think we may end up with the same spring lengths...but if you preload after installing, the added bushing bind will make it SEEM like you're adding more preload.

Its hard to explain. Follow the directions on the box if you're fine with about .50 to .60" of travel before bumpstop (assuming 2.125" of available travel before bumpstop).

I'm sure the suspension is designed to use bumpstops as helpers...just like almost any small honda suspension is (including stock).

On a track, that travel is likely fine.

On the street, you'll be using the bumpstops a lot.

You can add more preload from there and take measurements to make adjustments.

Install them sans dust boot at first. That way you can SEE the travel.

You turn the shock body using the wrenches. Not your hands.

I am happy with my settings this year...and have already set a personal best lap time that I think is respectable. I am trying to shave about 0.8 seconds further...which I think is possible with better driving. So...I'm not making any change or taking anything apart til about October or November when the car goes to storage.

Apex1.0

Does Ohlins list a spec for static compression travel before contacting the bump stops? I had a similar situation with my konis. I ended up cutting some bump stop away to make sure I had about 1.25 issues of travel. Because the Ohlins has the option of shortening the body, I would almost say you should shorten that as much as possible. Then use the preload to set the ride height. I would target around an inch of clear travel. If you hit more, then decrease preload and add to the shock length.

.6" seems to little.