Proper Ball Joints For Lowered Street Machine
#1
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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Proper Ball Joints For Lowered Street Machine
I'm overhauling my tired suspension with a complete Energy Suspension control arm poly bushing kit and Fortune Auto 500 coilovers. I plan on lowering the car 0.5"–1.0" and continue to drive it primarily on the street. Except for Innovative diff mounts, the car is completely stock.
What combination of adjustable, offset, and OEM-style ball joints should I be using to keep alignment stock-like after lowering a street car?
What combination of adjustable, offset, and OEM-style ball joints should I be using to keep alignment stock-like after lowering a street car?
#2
The car has factory alignment adjusters for toe, camber, and caster.
You shouldn't need anything for a small drop like that. You can actually be slightly outside factory spec for negative camber and it will be beneficial in a lot of ways, and shouldn't result in bad tire wear...as long as you've gotten toe fixed properly.
You shouldn't need anything for a small drop like that. You can actually be slightly outside factory spec for negative camber and it will be beneficial in a lot of ways, and shouldn't result in bad tire wear...as long as you've gotten toe fixed properly.
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Do you have recommendations for manufacturers of replacements? I was originally thinking of getting MOOGs all around but just realized that MOOG only sells the front lowers.
I looked at the OEM-style Hardrace joints also but the images of their front lowers don't include the OEM bracket and that difference made we weary of what I would be getting...
I looked at the OEM-style Hardrace joints also but the images of their front lowers don't include the OEM bracket and that difference made we weary of what I would be getting...
#4
Do you have recommendations for manufacturers of replacements? I was originally thinking of getting MOOGs all around but just realized that MOOG only sells the front lowers.
I looked at the OEM-style Hardrace joints also but the images of their front lowers don't include the OEM bracket and that difference made we weary of what I would be getting...
I looked at the OEM-style Hardrace joints also but the images of their front lowers don't include the OEM bracket and that difference made we weary of what I would be getting...
OEM Honda works for sure. I use bernardiparts.com or similar sites for OEM stuff.
No way to know if any aftermarket part will work for 2 mins or 5 years or more. They're *mostly* total garbage...but Hardrace admittedly does make pretty good parts overall (though they don't always fit properly). In any case, just like any aftermarket part, you're taking a gamble.
Why are you changing them?
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The car has 189k miles and while I have everything torn apart for bushings and coilovers I figured I might as well replace ball joints too. I haven’t begun disassembly yet and don’t have any explicit evidence that they need replacing. It just seemed like a good idea to gather all my parts ahead of time.
I’ve never inspected or replaced ball joints before, so I’m open to advice/suggestion on all of this.
I’ve never inspected or replaced ball joints before, so I’m open to advice/suggestion on all of this.
#6
If they don't have play, then I'd rather leave 189K mile OEM joints in rather than buy anything Moog.
The car will benefit from servicing the chassis parts, though. Hardrace is a decent bet. OEM is the sure thing.
I would rather put Moogs directly in the trash rather than installing to my car first and then the trash soon thereafter.
The car will benefit from servicing the chassis parts, though. Hardrace is a decent bet. OEM is the sure thing.
I would rather put Moogs directly in the trash rather than installing to my car first and then the trash soon thereafter.
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