Rear buddy club rca ball joints to much camber!!??
#1
Rear buddy club rca ball joints to much camber!!??
I recently installed the buddy club extended ball joints in the rear. I now can't get a moderate camber range for the street of even -1.5. The lowest camber I was able to reach was -2.5. Is it common to fix this problem with the spc upper adjustable ball joints? Any input would be great. Thanks
#2
Your SPC joints are set for a lot of neg camber, most likely.
SPC joints should not be used as adjusters, BTW. Just range extenders.
More details on how you're adjusting them and how low the car is will help answer your question.
SPC joints should not be used as adjusters, BTW. Just range extenders.
More details on how you're adjusting them and how low the car is will help answer your question.
#4
so if u set the spc upper to the most positive. It will give me a less aggressive range right?
#6
Rear lower RCA joints don't directly affect camber. But they do lower the ride height...which affects camber.
Buddy Club joints are almost surely not an upgrade from OEM. I highly doubt any aftermarket part is built as well as OEM Honda chassis parts are. Consider them a downgrade to some extent, in terms of quality. So you should inspect them every now and then for cracks or issues with the housing/boots.
Same with the SPC's for what it's worth.
OP
...I don't know how to help you without getting an idea of what's going on. Details about your setup and photos will help.
I would set the SPC's to "neutral" or maybe slightly positive (depending on how low your car is).
They need to be flipped over to go from negative range to positive range, BTW. Maxing them fully outboard while they are in the negative position will put them in "neutral".
Also...don't just run them full neg or positive. Position them advantageously. Lock them down TO THEIR SPECIFIED TORQUE to minimize breaking your UCA whilst driving. Then forget they exist.
Then make all adjustments using the factory cam adjuster.
Buddy Club joints are almost surely not an upgrade from OEM. I highly doubt any aftermarket part is built as well as OEM Honda chassis parts are. Consider them a downgrade to some extent, in terms of quality. So you should inspect them every now and then for cracks or issues with the housing/boots.
Same with the SPC's for what it's worth.
OP
...I don't know how to help you without getting an idea of what's going on. Details about your setup and photos will help.
I would set the SPC's to "neutral" or maybe slightly positive (depending on how low your car is).
They need to be flipped over to go from negative range to positive range, BTW. Maxing them fully outboard while they are in the negative position will put them in "neutral".
Also...don't just run them full neg or positive. Position them advantageously. Lock them down TO THEIR SPECIFIED TORQUE to minimize breaking your UCA whilst driving. Then forget they exist.
Then make all adjustments using the factory cam adjuster.
#7
im not sure on exactly how low i am. im running 255 40 17 with 17x9 +45 and there is about half a finger between the fender with the ohlins on low forks. so by setting the spc to neutral, you think that would set it closer to back to an oem camber range?
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#8
To fit 255's and 17x9 +45's, the only way to get to--1.5 deg of camber would be to narrow the track.
Eyeball spec the SPC until the tires clear the fender when compressed (best way to do this is remove the shocks so you can freely jack the tire up). Then go get an alignment and ask the guy to set the camber as positive as it will go until he sees that the tire will interfere with the fender on bumps.
It will be tricky to align, and you *may* need toe adjusters so that the poor guy aligning it can have some hope of getting toe in spec while keeping camber change minimal.
Or...just leave -2.5 in there because its not going to cause many (any?) adverse effects. I would set the SPC to slightly negative to clear the fender. Then set the stock adjuster to get -2.5.
The advantage of the SPC is that it pulls the top of the spindle in. So it takes lesser neg camber to clear fenders with wide tires/wheels.
You didn't need the SPC's to get to -2.5.... but I suppose they will help with fender clearance
Why are you aiming at -1.5?
Eyeball spec the SPC until the tires clear the fender when compressed (best way to do this is remove the shocks so you can freely jack the tire up). Then go get an alignment and ask the guy to set the camber as positive as it will go until he sees that the tire will interfere with the fender on bumps.
It will be tricky to align, and you *may* need toe adjusters so that the poor guy aligning it can have some hope of getting toe in spec while keeping camber change minimal.
Or...just leave -2.5 in there because its not going to cause many (any?) adverse effects. I would set the SPC to slightly negative to clear the fender. Then set the stock adjuster to get -2.5.
The advantage of the SPC is that it pulls the top of the spindle in. So it takes lesser neg camber to clear fenders with wide tires/wheels.
You didn't need the SPC's to get to -2.5.... but I suppose they will help with fender clearance
Why are you aiming at -1.5?
#9
To fit 255's and 17x9 +45's, the only way to get to--1.5 deg of camber would be to narrow the track.
Eyeball spec the SPC until the tires clear the fender when compressed (best way to do this is remove the shocks so you can freely jack the tire up). Then go get an alignment and ask the guy to set the camber as positive as it will go until he sees that the tire will interfere with the fender on bumps.
It will be tricky to align, and you *may* need toe adjusters so that the poor guy aligning it can have some hope of getting toe in spec while keeping camber change minimal.
Or...just leave -2.5 in there because its not going to cause many (any?) adverse effects. I would set the SPC to slightly negative to clear the fender. Then set the stock adjuster to get -2.5.
The advantage of the SPC is that it pulls the top of the spindle in. So it takes lesser neg camber to clear fenders with wide tires/wheels.
You didn't need the SPC's to get to -2.5.... but I suppose they will help with fender clearance
Why are you aiming at -1.5?
Eyeball spec the SPC until the tires clear the fender when compressed (best way to do this is remove the shocks so you can freely jack the tire up). Then go get an alignment and ask the guy to set the camber as positive as it will go until he sees that the tire will interfere with the fender on bumps.
It will be tricky to align, and you *may* need toe adjusters so that the poor guy aligning it can have some hope of getting toe in spec while keeping camber change minimal.
Or...just leave -2.5 in there because its not going to cause many (any?) adverse effects. I would set the SPC to slightly negative to clear the fender. Then set the stock adjuster to get -2.5.
The advantage of the SPC is that it pulls the top of the spindle in. So it takes lesser neg camber to clear fenders with wide tires/wheels.
You didn't need the SPC's to get to -2.5.... but I suppose they will help with fender clearance
Why are you aiming at -1.5?
thanks for the help.