turtlepower

Hey guys before you answer I'll like to note a few things first.

I've followed one of the DIYs on here with much success in the past and present, and dont remember "bumping" into this issue. Yes the rear shock is literally bumping into the rear sway bar inhibiting me from aligning the shock to fasten the lower bolt.

- the top is fastened and hanging in
- the end link is unfastened (for more flexibility)
- I'm using the trunk jack method to push the lower control arm down to vertically meet the lower shock holes (with success)
- the shock moving on a horizontal plane is where I'm stumped. Its Almost there but keeps bumping up against the sway bar
- yes it's the LEFT side shock (driver side)

I feel that if I remove the sway bar I'll be a to get the shock installed, but then wouldnt it be hard to re install the sway bar after? Wouldnt it bump against the shock.

Is there something I'm missing?

Nevertheless I am going to try to remove the sway bar to solve this mechanical riddle.

B serious

A photo would help.

Something is being done incorrectly or something is wrong.

starchland

twohoos

Loosen the tophat nuts so the shock body has a little more freedom to move. Make sure shock is oriented so the reservoir is towards the rear.

turtlepower

Thanks guys.

yes the reservoir is at the rear. These pics show the method in using to depress the control arm, the alignment (or lack thereoff) of the lower bolt holes, and the seat of spring bumping up against the sway bar inhibiting alignment .

noodels

Don't look like the correct drop links fitted as too long.

turtlepower

So the same issue was present on both sides. I ended up solving the issue by loosening the camber bolt and shifting the control arm, allowing ample room for the shock to sit in place.

I'm assuming when I got my car aligned with the coilovers the camber was adjusted , and since the base of the spring on the coilovers dont go anywhere near the sway bar, it fit.

with the stock suspension being installed back, the base hits the sway bar unless re adjusted to make room.

definitley going to need an alignment now!

thanks for all the help. Problem solved.

B serious

No...

Your problem was alleviated because you loosened a bushing and it allowed the arm to droop.

You need to loosen all the LCA/UCA bushings and re-clock them anyway. If you do that, you wouldn't need a floor jack to push the suspension down.

Again...you'll need to do that anyway.

Hopefully you took the steps to clock bushings?

turtlepower

Hi well whatever I did allowed me to move the arm and shock into the correct alignment. I believe it was the camber bolt under the sway bar, then played with the bolt on the other side which moved the lca on a vertical path.

if by clocking, you mean preloading the suspension before tightening everything up to spec - then yes I did that - especially for the front upper control arms. But if clocking means something else then no. Sorry I'm a level 2 newbie so some things are a bit over my head, but I'm learning.

will likely wait a week before I go for an alignment

B serious

You're on the right track.

Clocking is the correct word for "preloading" bushings.

It looks like you lowered the car. In which case, you need to re-clock all the bushings in the front/rear UCA, rear LCA, 2 Front LCA bushings, and rear toe arm.

Loosen them. Then re-tighten them at your new ride height.

Loosening those bolts while installing the shocks would have made your life much easier. You need to do it anyway...so...no reason not to make your life easier.

Know what I mean?