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Rear wheel lifts going up driveways/Suspension travel

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Old 12-22-2016, 10:13 AM
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I have the same issues and set up. Just don't fly across the edge of pavement and you should be fine. I have on some occasions gotten the car stuck with no drive wheel on the ground. Had to get out a push the car lol. Before going with the Koni CR set up the stock suspension would do the same thing. I have road with steep cross slope with valley gutter and then a steep driveway going up so everyday is a challenge. The son tried to remove the front bumper at about 25mph one afternoon. Was ready to put a hurt on him for that one. Hope this helped man. Later BD
Old 12-22-2016, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
The sways bars will usually keep the wheel from full droop capability even if it has more. The biggest issue is overall limited suspension stroke and a lot of that is bump limited on opposite corner from the wheel that's spinning. If he disconnected the rear sway bar, there is a good chance it would solve the problem, but that would be silly. My point is, don't worry about it as long as he can still get up his driveway.

No, a different set of coilovers is no guaranteed fix. Like I said, its not an uncommon problem, its the nature of the platform. High angle off camber situations don't favor this platform. Its not a regular car. You literally have 3" of total travel and half of that is taken up from the weight of the car, wile also having stiff sway bars limiting droop travel wile one end is fully compressed. The suspension is short and stiff. Stock suspension at stock ride height can have the same problem in more severe angles. Its all relative.

​​​​​​​Swaybars limit droop. But...the spring has to provide the droop. Even if there was no sway bar, if the spring ran out of droop travel...the wheel would lift, or provide no grip due to not having downward force.

And the chosen system definitely has an impact on that. A very short bodied shock with tons of compression and no droop will lift a wheel very easily.

I'm sure he realizes there IS an issue...and he can either live with it or not. Or he wouldn't have posted the thread.

I think he's asking if there's something he can do to resolve his issue.

his wheel isn't lifting because of lack of compression. its lifting because of lack of droop.

In fact...MORE compression would make his issue worse.

Last edited by B serious; 12-22-2016 at 10:16 AM.
Old 12-22-2016, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by B serious
a stock CR is the same height (roughly) as a base S2000. The springs are shorter but also stiffer. The delete CR is also slightly lighter.

But you're putting them on a base model. Which, theoretically would sit a tiny bit lower with CR springs installed.

The lower perch is like 20mm lower on the shock. Or 3/4".

The motion ratio of the suspension would magnify that. In the back (using SBG motion ratios), moving the spring 3/4" lower would make the car 1.3" lower. PLUS the fact that you're removing preload from the spring may get you a bit lower than that. PLUS the removal of the air spring since you're using Konis and not stock shocks.

It probably lowered the car like....1.5" to 1.75"?
Thanks for the insight and explanation.. I knew it was more than 0.5" but i wasn't sure why or how that happened, since it seems like people who use CR springs on the upper perch are close to stock height. I might look into coilovers to raise the car up a bit just to make it a little more street friendly.

Last edited by chinoamigo; 12-22-2016 at 10:51 AM.
Old 12-22-2016, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by B serious
​​​​​​​Swaybars limit droop. But...the spring has to provide the droop. Even if there was no sway bar, if the spring ran out of droop travel...the wheel would lift, or provide no grip due to not having downward force.

And the chosen system definitely has an impact on that. A very short bodied shock with tons of compression and no droop will lift a wheel very easily.

I'm sure he realizes there IS an issue...and he can either live with it or not. Or he wouldn't have posted the thread.

I think he's asking if there's something he can do to resolve his issue.

his wheel isn't lifting because of lack of compression. its lifting because of lack of droop.

In fact...MORE compression would make his issue worse.
Correct, all of these influence and any one of them can be the deciding factor, but its speculative to say its one over the other from behind the computer screen, when I can tell you from my own experience its the sway bar in the rear that limits droop in this particular off camber scenario, not the shock length, even though it is quite typically short as are most after market coilovers, and considering I'm running the softest ap2 rear sway, its a safe assumption the same thing is going on with his car in this scenario. Strait on the wheels would droop to full travel, but not off camber because of the sway, get it? Also if the up stroke travel is short/hitting bump stop on the apposing end, not being able to absorb the camber angle of the car, then it is going to create inside wheel lift as well, so droop is still only half of the equation. But again, it gets back to several factors influencing this issue, and without looking at the car, we can only present the factors and not give a definitive single one as it, just the most likely. Its probably a combination of both as I mentioned in my first post. On the bump stops on one end and not enough droop on the other. How you wan tot go about rectifying this is the question, and what are you possibly compromising in order to gain no wheel spin up the driveway.

Last edited by s2000Junky; 12-22-2016 at 11:04 AM.
Old 12-22-2016, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Correct, all of these influence and any one of them can be the deciding factor, but its speculative to say its one over the other from behind the computer screen, when I can tell you from my own experience its the sway bar in the rear that limits droop in this particular off camber scenario, not the shock length, even though it is quite typically short as are most after market coilovers, and considering I'm running the softest ap2 rear sway, its a safe assumption the same thing is going on with his car in this scenario. Strait on the wheels would droop to full travel, but not off camber because of the sway, get it? Also if the up stroke travel is short/hitting bump stop on the apposing end, not being able to absorb the camber angle of the car, then it is going to create inside wheel lift as well, so droop is still only half of the equation. But again, it gets back to several factors influencing this issue, and without looking at the car, we can only present the factors and not give a definitive single one as it, just the most likely. Its probably a combination of both as I mentioned in my first post. On the bump stops on one end and not enough droop on the other. How you wan tot go about rectifying this is the question, and what are you possibly compromising in order to gain no wheel spin up the driveway.

Whether or not the car has inherent issues is irrelevant.

His car is modified in a way that takes away BOTH, compression and droop travel.

The most likely issue is that his droop is insufficient. The definition of lifting a wheel is lack of droop. Yes? yes.

Hence the question as to whether his springs are loose when the shock is at full extension.

Its a question to gain a LIKELY hypothesis.

It would help the lifting problem if he had his car on the stock perches.

It would also (obviously) help his issue of dragging the middle of his car.

he is dragging the middle of his car.

Raising it up kills 2 birds with 1 stone (a monumental act of animal cruelty if taken literally).
Old 12-22-2016, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by B serious
Whether or not the car has inherent issues is irrelevant.

His car is modified in a way that takes away BOTH, compression and droop travel.

The most likely issue is that his droop is insufficient. The definition of lifting a wheel is lack of droop. Yes? yes.

Hence the question as to whether his springs are loose when the shock is at full extension.

Its a question to gain a LIKELY hypothesis.

It would help the lifting problem if he had his car on the stock perches.

It would also (obviously) help his issue of dragging the middle of his car.

he is dragging the middle of his car.

Raising it up kills 2 birds with 1 stone (a monumental act of animal cruelty if taken literally).
Sure it could....maybe, all I'm saying is its not just wheel droop since there is the opposing end at play as well. If your outer and inner front had more room to 'compress' and articulate as the car proceeded up the driveway off camber, you wouldn't need more inside rear wheel droop to make contact. If your inside rear wheel droop is being limited by the sway bar (assuming, as in my case) then more front up stroke is what's required to solve the problem. Raising the car would help grounding out, and could help front upstroke if the springs are soft enough to compress further with the sway attached, but then that knocks off slammed parking lot scene points. So just depends on how the OP wants to go about it Or do nothing and live with it.

But to further my point, you could literally have no suspension movement at all in the rear (welded up with rods for coilovers) and still not have a wheel leave the ground if you had enough front suspension articulation. Not realistic, but it expands the focus/solutions never the less.

Last edited by s2000Junky; 12-22-2016 at 01:02 PM.
Old 12-22-2016, 12:12 PM
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I was thinking that if I was going to get the springs seated on the upper perch on the koni's i might as well get some new coilovers for more adjustability. The mid pipe on my exhaust system already scraped the driveway a few times.
Old 12-22-2016, 06:56 PM
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Articulation is for rock crawlers. If you have an extreme angle transition, expect an extreme result. Wheel lift.

Considering the application (sports car), wheel lift under extreme articulation is a problem not worth solving.

limited travel + rigid frame = wheel lift under extreme transitions.
Old 12-22-2016, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Apex1.0
Articulation is for rock crawlers. If you have an extreme angle transition, expect an extreme result. Wheel lift.

Considering the application (sports car), wheel lift under extreme articulation is a problem not worth solving.

limited travel + rigid frame = wheel lift under extreme transitions.
Exactly. Which was my original point. It just is what it is, dont bother chasing it for a circumstance like this. New coilovers isn't going to help, could even make it worse over what the OP is using now. Get new coilovers for the sake of getting new coilovers, no need to find ways to justify it.
Old 12-22-2016, 10:11 PM
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The angle is not that extreme IMO, even though the rear wheel lifts a bit if i have enough momentum it'll gain some traction and scoot itself up. Knowing wheel lift/LSD slippage isn't wearing anything out helps me sleep at night though!

However what I am worried about now is the scraping in the middle of the car, my old exhaust (Greddy SE dual) has visible signs of damage in the mid pipe area. I might get coilovers to help with that since on the lower perch I'm lowered 1.5 inches, ideally i would like to be around 1" to be more street friendly.

Thanks for all the input!


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