SPC Ball Joint Install
05-26-2010, 08:30 AM
#1
SPC Ball Joint Install
Im looking to install the SPC Ball Joint (camber kit). Looking at the install instructions (found here http://www.robrobinette.com/ball_joint_how_to.htm ... Thanks Rob Robinette!!), do I need the tool below to press in the SPC bottom joint plate?
Also, how does the install of the SPC compare to the J's Racing solution (L1 or L2)?
Im looking to get atleast -2.8 F w/ max castor and -2.5 R w/ a bit of toe in. The car is for track/auto-x only and driven on the street only to/from events.
Thanks!
Also, how does the install of the SPC compare to the J's Racing solution (L1 or L2)?
Im looking to get atleast -2.8 F w/ max castor and -2.5 R w/ a bit of toe in. The car is for track/auto-x only and driven on the street only to/from events.
Thanks!
09-08-2018, 05:54 PM
#2
This is old, but perhaps it may help someone else.
No, you don't need the tool. I just removed the control arm, and beat the old ball joint out with a hammer (used an old bearing raceway as the bottom cup, and a socket as the ball joint cup). Then I used a bench-top vise to press the SPC bottom plate into position. I only used the vise to get it started with accuracy, then beat it flat. As Rob notes on his site, it took many attempts to get the slot aligned just how i wanted it.
Also, I second Rob about having to clearance the control arm. When the ball joint is set for negative camber change, you only get about half the adjustability unless you remove some material on the control arm.
No, you don't need the tool. I just removed the control arm, and beat the old ball joint out with a hammer (used an old bearing raceway as the bottom cup, and a socket as the ball joint cup). Then I used a bench-top vise to press the SPC bottom plate into position. I only used the vise to get it started with accuracy, then beat it flat. As Rob notes on his site, it took many attempts to get the slot aligned just how i wanted it.
Also, I second Rob about having to clearance the control arm. When the ball joint is set for negative camber change, you only get about half the adjustability unless you remove some material on the control arm.
Last edited by nstrahan; 09-08-2018 at 05:56 PM.
09-09-2018, 09:04 AM
#6
The tool to press the joint is free to rent at a typical parts store. Its a ball joint press.
Make sure the joint is correctly oriented for negative or positive.
Its not an adjuster. Don't use this joint as an adjuster. Set it once for eyeball spec neg camber. Then ask the alignment guy to dial in your desired number via the factory adjuster.
A little goes a long way. Don't just push the joint all the way negative. A touch of inboard movement up top will gain MASSIVE neg camber.
Think of them as range extenders for camber adjustment. They are not good as adjusters.
Make sure the joint is correctly oriented for negative or positive.
Its not an adjuster. Don't use this joint as an adjuster. Set it once for eyeball spec neg camber. Then ask the alignment guy to dial in your desired number via the factory adjuster.
A little goes a long way. Don't just push the joint all the way negative. A touch of inboard movement up top will gain MASSIVE neg camber.
Think of them as range extenders for camber adjustment. They are not good as adjusters.
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