SS Braided Lines - Poor Pedal Feel and handbrake light on
10-09-2016, 02:49 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
SS Braided Lines - Poor Pedal Feel and handbrake light on
Hi,
Looking for some advice post SS lines install.
I finally got around to installing my Goodridge SS lines on the car and since the install (DIY) i feel a little unsure about the whole thing.
Pedal feel is worse than when i had the stock lines and when i press the brake pedal i can hear air from the booster on the initial press.
I don't know if i am just being extremely paranoid about the whole thing as i don't really remember if the booster made the noise before or not or if am being over sensitive about the brake feel.
I have done a flush of fluid with AP racing 600 fluid and everything seems normal during that process (2 man job). It's just when the booster is on that it feels different from stock.
And then on my second test run of the brakes, the handbrake light remains on.
Next weekend, I'm going to push the pistons back and see if i might have any air in the calipers themselves.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Side note - Goodridge SS Lines - Fitment 8/10 They could do with an extra inch of lines especially on the rears. I really had to massage them through the brackets to get them to reach the hardlines. Felt like i was forcing tight bends.
Looking for some advice post SS lines install.
I finally got around to installing my Goodridge SS lines on the car and since the install (DIY) i feel a little unsure about the whole thing.
Pedal feel is worse than when i had the stock lines and when i press the brake pedal i can hear air from the booster on the initial press.
I don't know if i am just being extremely paranoid about the whole thing as i don't really remember if the booster made the noise before or not or if am being over sensitive about the brake feel.
I have done a flush of fluid with AP racing 600 fluid and everything seems normal during that process (2 man job). It's just when the booster is on that it feels different from stock.
And then on my second test run of the brakes, the handbrake light remains on.
Next weekend, I'm going to push the pistons back and see if i might have any air in the calipers themselves.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Side note - Goodridge SS Lines - Fitment 8/10 They could do with an extra inch of lines especially on the rears. I really had to massage them through the brackets to get them to reach the hardlines. Felt like i was forcing tight bends.
10-09-2016, 03:34 PM
#2
Advice? Read the owners manual. 
That indicator has two functions. (1) warn if the hand brake is on but, more importantly (2) indicating a brake system failure. Probably not bled properly judging from what you did.
-- Chuck
That indicator has two functions. (1) warn if the hand brake is on but, more importantly (2) indicating a brake system failure. Probably not bled properly judging from what you did.-- Chuck
10-09-2016, 04:07 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the prompt response.
I'm not getting any air as i bleed the lines so I'm unsure what i could of done differently. I'll still push the pistons back to be sure though.
Any idea of the sound coming from the booster?
I'm not getting any air as i bleed the lines so I'm unsure what i could of done differently. I'll still push the pistons back to be sure though.
Any idea of the sound coming from the booster?
10-09-2016, 04:18 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Oh, another detail to add.
The whole time i never knew that the plastic cap in the reservoir could be removed. Once i removed it i noticed all the dirt at the bottom but since i had already started pouring new fluid in, i decided to let the reservoir run low so i didn't have to suck out much new fluid to remove the dirt.
I didn't let it run completely empty but it was pretty low in the reservoir.
Was this a bad thing to do?
The whole time i never knew that the plastic cap in the reservoir could be removed. Once i removed it i noticed all the dirt at the bottom but since i had already started pouring new fluid in, i decided to let the reservoir run low so i didn't have to suck out much new fluid to remove the dirt.
I didn't let it run completely empty but it was pretty low in the reservoir.
Was this a bad thing to do?
10-09-2016, 06:23 PM
#5
On 00-05's, the BRAKE light only turns on if the float senses low fluid...or if the parking brake is up.
On 06+'s, it may turn on for VSA issues. Not for bleeding issues.
OP...you may need to bleed the lines more completely to improve your pedal. Do it with the car on. Do it with a 1 man bleeder. You'll need at least 1 liter of fluid.
Check your fluid level and float sensor to pertain to the light.
Boosters make whooshing noise when there is vacuum...and more travel means more noise. So if you have air in the lines....the pedal will travel further...and subsequently, the booster makes more noise.
On 06+'s, it may turn on for VSA issues. Not for bleeding issues.
OP...you may need to bleed the lines more completely to improve your pedal. Do it with the car on. Do it with a 1 man bleeder. You'll need at least 1 liter of fluid.
Check your fluid level and float sensor to pertain to the light.
Boosters make whooshing noise when there is vacuum...and more travel means more noise. So if you have air in the lines....the pedal will travel further...and subsequently, the booster makes more noise.
10-09-2016, 06:42 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Its an 01.
So bleed with car on and booster working?
What is this float sensor you talk about? Is it that cylindrical thing inside the reservoir?
I've already put about 3/4 of litre through it
So bleed with car on and booster working?
What is this float sensor you talk about? Is it that cylindrical thing inside the reservoir?
I've already put about 3/4 of litre through it
10-09-2016, 07:24 PM
#7
0.75 liters isn't enough.
Bleed it with the car on. Depending on how long you left the lines off, you may have more air trapped.
Did you remove the calipers to paint them or some other reason? If so...is it possible that you put the front calipers on the wrong side (left to right)?
Always bleed the brakes with the car on.
Bleed it with the car on. Depending on how long you left the lines off, you may have more air trapped.
Did you remove the calipers to paint them or some other reason? If so...is it possible that you put the front calipers on the wrong side (left to right)?
Always bleed the brakes with the car on.
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10-09-2016, 07:29 PM
#8
For something like replacing lines, I'd bet on at LEAST 1 liter. Maybe more depending on how efficient you are. Figure about 1.5 to 2 liters if you're not familiar with the procedure.
It should only take like 15-20 mins by yourself with a home made 1 man bleeder. Maybe 30 mins the first time you've ever done it.
It should only take like 15-20 mins by yourself with a home made 1 man bleeder. Maybe 30 mins the first time you've ever done it.
10-09-2016, 07:37 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Nope, calipers stayed on but when i put the lines on i thought my bottle of brake fluid was full... it was empty.
I wanted to use the same fluid after changing the lines just to ensure consistency. I left it as is for a day before i decide to replace all the fluid with the new AP racing fluid.
I've always been bleeding with the car off as i can generally get help. Beer / coffee for assistance
I wanted to use the same fluid after changing the lines just to ensure consistency. I left it as is for a day before i decide to replace all the fluid with the new AP racing fluid.
I've always been bleeding with the car off as i can generally get help. Beer / coffee for assistance
10-09-2016, 09:50 PM
#10
I recently swapped the factory lines to StopTech SS lines. Bled the system thoroughly. Pedal felt like garbage.
Here is the process that got me a rock hard pedal (so to speak)
1) Replaced lines
2) Bled huge amount of air out of the system, no apparent air remaining.
3) Test drive, awful pedal
4) Start car, drive the front wheels up onto some wood or jack the car up to raise the nose 4-5", fully depress brake pedal, block it fully depressed with a 2x4, shut off the car, disconnect negative battery terminal
5) Wait 12 hours, unblock pedal, reconnect battery, pedal got 80% better
6) Drive for 20 min, get some good heat in the brakes, multiple ABS engagements
7) Rebleed all 4 corners, pulled about a 1/2" air bubble out of each rear
8) Repeat step 4
9) I repeated step 6, 7, and 4 again for the hell of it, didn't get any air out during the bleed.
Now I couldn't be happier with the pedal feel.
Compliments to Billman for the pedal "blocking" procedure.
Here is the process that got me a rock hard pedal (so to speak)
1) Replaced lines
2) Bled huge amount of air out of the system, no apparent air remaining.
3) Test drive, awful pedal
4) Start car, drive the front wheels up onto some wood or jack the car up to raise the nose 4-5", fully depress brake pedal, block it fully depressed with a 2x4, shut off the car, disconnect negative battery terminal
5) Wait 12 hours, unblock pedal, reconnect battery, pedal got 80% better
6) Drive for 20 min, get some good heat in the brakes, multiple ABS engagements
7) Rebleed all 4 corners, pulled about a 1/2" air bubble out of each rear
8) Repeat step 4
9) I repeated step 6, 7, and 4 again for the hell of it, didn't get any air out during the bleed.
Now I couldn't be happier with the pedal feel.
Compliments to Billman for the pedal "blocking" procedure.