Stoptech trophy problem front rotor grinding lower control arm
Hi All,
I hit a problem after installed the 328mm trophy stoptech BBK. So the front rotor touches the lower control arm. Wondering anyone here could help with the solution? Obsessed garage the guy put it on his CR got the same problem but I couldn't find a solution from him also. Anyone? Thanks all! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...6f53343819.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...c1ea75114a.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...ca1d6e832c.jpg |
Is it touching with steering angle straight as well?
Rotor and hat assembled correctly? |
Yes it is touching ESPECIALLY angle straight
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It looks like the hub is offset towards the inboard of the car with these ball joint spacers, are the spacers offset ? if so try 180 them to see if the clearance is the same.
Was kit was designed with the ball joint spacer / offset spacer in mind. Do you have a standard ball to test the fitment ? |
Good point.
Normally you would use these offset camber joints to ad more negative camber by pushing hub further out, this should give more clearance. Removing the roll center correcting spacer might help some as well. |
I too, was wondering why you have your lower ball joint offset so that the hub moves inboard or straight down. Usually, you use those to move the hub outboard.
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Obsessed garage had his balljoints installed incorrectly
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IDK, it seems to me like the extended ball joint is the obvious cause of this, unless i'm missing something. I've installed 2 trophy kits and 1 standard stoptech kit and they all had ample clearance (cars all had OEM joints).
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I'm running the trophy kit and these same offset ballpoints with roll center plate included as pictured and have no rubbing issue on my rotor. Seeing as its touching the lower control arm by the castle nut and not the ball joint, it shouldn't matter which way it was orientated as its still going to rub there, so that is a head scratcher. :ponder:
Why does your control arm look silver? You said same problem on another s2k? Maybe the wrong rotors for another car with a different offset or rotor thickness were sent with this kit? All else fails, take 2-3mm off with an angle grinder. Problem solved. |
I think he just needs to flip the joints to "negative".
It definitely matters which way they go. If you flip them toward "positive", you move the ball joint stud and nut outboard (toward the rotor). |
Originally Posted by B serious
(Post 24591214)
I think he just needs to flip the joints to "negative".
It definitely matters which way they go. If you flip them toward "positive", you move the ball joint stud and nut outboard (toward the rotor). EDIT: Never mind, the lower joint orientation will pull the knuckle and rotor away from the lower control arm. So yes, flip it OP. |
That rubber boot will be toast soon,as will ball joint !!
could maybe put a 1mm/2mm spacer on before fitting disc,or as said above get the grinder out. They got the correct collets in the discs?<if they are a floating disc>? |
Flip the joint to negative.
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...9ed4684bac.jpg
Hi All, Thanks I solved the problem by flipping the roll center 180. Megan wasn't give any instructions for it. so it works by flipping it around it creates 1 inches clearance now. it works perfect |
Funny how that works. Now tell the guy with the CR to flip his too :p
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Like noodles mentioned you really need some heat shielding for that rubber boot if you want it to survive.
Its probably the same thing for the upper one and maybe the tie rod as well. |
You also need to go get an alignment after flipping that. I bet the toe is way out.
-Maniac |
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