Suspension bushings, upgrades?
02-15-2018, 09:32 AM
#11
I’ve recently replaced every bushing with hard race hardened rubber bushings. If it’s a street car I highly recommend this route instead of poly/delrin. Longer life, no maintenance and only slightly firmer than stock. The best analogy I can come up with is taking a guitar and giving it a tune-up. Much tighter and feels way more exotic thank to that.
02-15-2018, 08:50 PM
#12
Registered User
From what I've read so far, I think I'll stay away from polyurethane bushings completely.
About the tie rod boots, I'm not sure. I've only had the car for under 2 years, and they have looked like crap the whole time. Supposedly the car was originally a California car, and there's been some questionable things done to it, so maybe the combination of miles, heat, and brake cleaner?
About the tie rod boots, I'm not sure. I've only had the car for under 2 years, and they have looked like crap the whole time. Supposedly the car was originally a California car, and there's been some questionable things done to it, so maybe the combination of miles, heat, and brake cleaner?
also tons of dumbasses out here modding cars. im sure it had something to do with california lol
02-19-2018, 02:51 PM
#13
Polyurethane is not a very good match for moving suspension parts.
Hardrace sells rubber bushings if you're looking to do this within a pretty limited budget.
Just make sure you properly clock them.
Its a Honda sports car. So...the stock stuff is REALLY good. Its expensive, however.
Again...any applicable rubber bushing should be clocked or you'll damage it quickly.
Why are your tie rod boots splitting open at just 150K??? Did someone use metal tools on them, or spray them with brake cleaner?? Or do they just see a lot of sun exposure?? Always buy Honda OEM tie rods/ball joints if you're planning on replacing them.
Hardrace sells rubber bushings if you're looking to do this within a pretty limited budget.
Just make sure you properly clock them.
Its a Honda sports car. So...the stock stuff is REALLY good. Its expensive, however.
Again...any applicable rubber bushing should be clocked or you'll damage it quickly.
Why are your tie rod boots splitting open at just 150K??? Did someone use metal tools on them, or spray them with brake cleaner?? Or do they just see a lot of sun exposure?? Always buy Honda OEM tie rods/ball joints if you're planning on replacing them.
02-19-2018, 03:54 PM
#14
Basically the idea is to load the bushing before you torque it down on ANY loaded bushing. You do this by leaving the bolt loose and jacking up the rear LCA until the car comes just comes off the jack stand before tightening. Or if you happen to have enough room, you could lower the car down onto the floor with the bolt loose so the vehicle weight loads the bushing before you tighten the bolt and do a final torque.
What happens when you don't clock it? Basically if you tighten the bolt with the wheels in the air with no load on it, as you set the car back down the bushing will twist as you set it down. So over time your bushing will wear out because it's perpetually twisted at rest and going over bumps etc, which puts stress on it at rest rather than the normal movement from going over bumps.
Essentially, preload the bushing before torquing it down.
02-19-2018, 04:24 PM
#15
Right. Just keep in mind this needs to be for any coaxial rubber bushing (inner sleeve and outer sleeve with rubber in between). So thats upper and lower control arms, on both front and rear, plus the lower shock mounts.
If any of these bolts are ever loosened, they must only be tightened with that corners weight pressing down on the suspension. So basically you're simulating that corner with its wheel mounted and sitting on the ground.
You basically just jack that corner up off the jack stand, jacking on the lower control arm. Then you can tighten all the bushing bolts for that corner.
If any of these bolts are ever loosened, they must only be tightened with that corners weight pressing down on the suspension. So basically you're simulating that corner with its wheel mounted and sitting on the ground.
You basically just jack that corner up off the jack stand, jacking on the lower control arm. Then you can tighten all the bushing bolts for that corner.
The following users liked this post:
WilloW (12-27-2020)
02-22-2018, 09:42 PM
#16
I wanted to know as well, and did a quick google search.
Basically the idea is to load the bushing before you torque it down on ANY loaded bushing. You do this by leaving the bolt loose and jacking up the rear LCA until the car comes just comes off the jack stand before tightening. Or if you happen to have enough room, you could lower the car down onto the floor with the bolt loose so the vehicle weight loads the bushing before you tighten the bolt and do a final torque.
What happens when you don't clock it? Basically if you tighten the bolt with the wheels in the air with no load on it, as you set the car back down the bushing will twist as you set it down. So over time your bushing will wear out because it's perpetually twisted at rest and going over bumps etc, which puts stress on it at rest rather than the normal movement from going over bumps.
Essentially, preload the bushing before torquing it down.
Basically the idea is to load the bushing before you torque it down on ANY loaded bushing. You do this by leaving the bolt loose and jacking up the rear LCA until the car comes just comes off the jack stand before tightening. Or if you happen to have enough room, you could lower the car down onto the floor with the bolt loose so the vehicle weight loads the bushing before you tighten the bolt and do a final torque.
What happens when you don't clock it? Basically if you tighten the bolt with the wheels in the air with no load on it, as you set the car back down the bushing will twist as you set it down. So over time your bushing will wear out because it's perpetually twisted at rest and going over bumps etc, which puts stress on it at rest rather than the normal movement from going over bumps.
Essentially, preload the bushing before torquing it down.
Right. Just keep in mind this needs to be for any coaxial rubber bushing (inner sleeve and outer sleeve with rubber in between). So thats upper and lower control arms, on both front and rear, plus the lower shock mounts.
If any of these bolts are ever loosened, they must only be tightened with that corners weight pressing down on the suspension. So basically you're simulating that corner with its wheel mounted and sitting on the ground.
You basically just jack that corner up off the jack stand, jacking on the lower control arm. Then you can tighten all the bushing bolts for that corner.
If any of these bolts are ever loosened, they must only be tightened with that corners weight pressing down on the suspension. So basically you're simulating that corner with its wheel mounted and sitting on the ground.
You basically just jack that corner up off the jack stand, jacking on the lower control arm. Then you can tighten all the bushing bolts for that corner.
02-23-2018, 12:01 AM
#17
If you had no qualms about the stock setup, then the general principle is to get the OE one again, unless you are significantly changing your direction / usage of the car.
In most cases, if OE fits your needs, then OE > aftermarket. Agree with the above comments on properly preloading the bushings!
In most cases, if OE fits your needs, then OE > aftermarket. Agree with the above comments on properly preloading the bushings!
02-23-2018, 09:30 AM
#18
There is a local track guy that started running sphericals this year. He started bending suspension arms soon after. YMMV
02-23-2018, 12:55 PM
#20
Community Organizer
I've been running poly for 3.5 years now with tens of thousands of street/autox/track miles and zero complaints. The bushings felt worlds better than the tired OEM units on initial install (they still feel great). I see plenty of people regurgitating "poly is teh debil" and other's explanations for why they think that, but none of them are sharing any personal experience running them in this platform. If you're after a bit of a softer ride for street use, get hardened rubber. Hardrace will be your most economical option, other rubber options are just making you pay for a name and won't be any harder. I wouldn't recommend spherical for a car that will see street duty.