Suspension bushings, upgrades?
#21
I should see him next weekend, I'll ask.
I assume they just have no give so a decent curb hit or anything transmits the force right to the now-weakest-link arm, whereas rubber would just flex and absorb the big initial force.
It depends on how they are positioned in the car... for example, the rear trailing arm bushings in the E46 BMWs should stay OEM otherwise you have strange handling characteristics (big grip falloff all at once) since the trailing arm bushing is meant to articulate a bit; poly causes binding. BMW calls it elasto-kinematics (I shit you not, how German).
I assume they just have no give so a decent curb hit or anything transmits the force right to the now-weakest-link arm, whereas rubber would just flex and absorb the big initial force.
I've been running poly for 3.5 years now with tens of thousands of street/autox/track miles and zero complaints. The bushings felt worlds better than the tired OEM units on initial install (they still feel great). I see plenty of people regurgitating "poly is teh debil" and other's explanations for why they think that, but none of them are sharing any personal experience running them in this platform. If you're after a bit of a softer ride for street use, get hardened rubber. Hardrace will be your most economical option, other rubber options are just making you pay for a name and won't be any harder. I wouldn't recommend spherical for a car that will see street duty.
#22
Thread Starter
I've been running poly for 3.5 years now with tens of thousands of street/autox/track miles and zero complaints. The bushings felt worlds better than the tired OEM units on initial install (they still feel great). I see plenty of people regurgitating "poly is teh debil" and other's explanations for why they think that, but none of them are sharing any personal experience running them in this platform. If you're after a bit of a softer ride for street use, get hardened rubber. Hardrace will be your most economical option, other rubber options are just making you pay for a name and won't be any harder. I wouldn't recommend spherical for a car that will see street duty.
#23
Community Organizer
Real world experience is great to hear. Thanks for sharing. I have used poly engine mount inserts on cars in the past and they definitely stiffened things up. It seemed after some time, they would squish some so that they were easier to remove/reinstall. Not sure that is a desirable characteristic in the suspension though. What are your thoughts?
Last edited by Fokker; 02-24-2018 at 09:03 AM.
#24
I've used poly on 2 different cars. Energy suspension full kits.
Compliance bushings shouldn't be solid poly. Its such a terrible idea.
Poly doesn't last as long as rubber (in terms of a bushing or engine mount material). Before refuting this....read the part where the OP has 150K on his factory rubber bushings on his car from the early 2000's.
I found poly very harsh and rattly. Likely due to the fact that they have *some* slop and experience tons of friction during use. No confidence.
Not saying cars with poly bushings don't make a great budget track car application. But that's all I would consider them good for.
If poly was so universally fantastic...then why would OEM's that make performance cars use rubber and/or sphericals which are much more expensive? Why wouldn't they use poly?
Compliance bushings shouldn't be solid poly. Its such a terrible idea.
Poly doesn't last as long as rubber (in terms of a bushing or engine mount material). Before refuting this....read the part where the OP has 150K on his factory rubber bushings on his car from the early 2000's.
I found poly very harsh and rattly. Likely due to the fact that they have *some* slop and experience tons of friction during use. No confidence.
Not saying cars with poly bushings don't make a great budget track car application. But that's all I would consider them good for.
If poly was so universally fantastic...then why would OEM's that make performance cars use rubber and/or sphericals which are much more expensive? Why wouldn't they use poly?
#25
Well lubed poly doesn't have much friction. But they do have significant stiction. Static friction. That resistance to initial movement. So if its a big bump, that easily overcomes stiction, the extra free moving travel of poly tends to be more compliant and comfortable than rubber. But for little bumps, that static friction makes the poly act more like a rubber bushing, except way stiffer and adding way more spring than rubber does. In other words, horribly stiff, uncomfortable suspension. For bumps somewhere in between, that don't have the sudden, sharp impact that overcomes stiction, you get initial super stiff extra spring effect from the poly, until enough force to overcome the stiction, then much more compliant than rubber.
In other words, very inconsistent and unpredictable suspension response.
If you are driving hard on uneven pavement, poly might actually work pretty good, since you'd have a lot of hard, sharp impacts that would blow past the stiction, and you wouldn't notice it much.
In other words, very inconsistent and unpredictable suspension response.
If you are driving hard on uneven pavement, poly might actually work pretty good, since you'd have a lot of hard, sharp impacts that would blow past the stiction, and you wouldn't notice it much.
#26
I did Challenge Delrin offset bushings in the front upper a-arms (wanted more camber), Hardrace hardened bushings in the rear upper a-arms (couldn't stomach the Mugen cost), then Mugen for everything else. After about 1.5 years I wanted the compliance back so I bought all new arms.
I'd be happy to sell the full AP2 suspension arm set if you'd rather save yourself the headache on doing the bushing job. The arms have about 36,000 miles on them and the bushings have about 5,000 miles.
I'd be happy to sell the full AP2 suspension arm set if you'd rather save yourself the headache on doing the bushing job. The arms have about 36,000 miles on them and the bushings have about 5,000 miles.
#27
Thread Starter
I did Challenge Delrin offset bushings in the front upper a-arms (wanted more camber), Hardrace hardened bushings in the rear upper a-arms (couldn't stomach the Mugen cost), then Mugen for everything else. After about 1.5 years I wanted the compliance back so I bought all new arms.
I'd be happy to sell the full AP2 suspension arm set if you'd rather save yourself the headache on doing the bushing job. The arms have about 36,000 miles on them and the bushings have about 5,000 miles.
I'd be happy to sell the full AP2 suspension arm set if you'd rather save yourself the headache on doing the bushing job. The arms have about 36,000 miles on them and the bushings have about 5,000 miles.
#28
And even on a large hit they have far, far more friction than a twisting rubber bush (which just has internal damping through heat generation).
#29
Good to know!
Watching on TV you can easily see how all those high suspension travel off road vehicles have comparatively soft springs, the way they articulate and absorb big landings. It makes sense they have softer spring, and stiffer damping, than short travel on road suspension.
It also makes sense how poly would not work well in that arena. Also how poly needs sticky lube, and its unsealed, how that would be a recipe for wear in that environment.
Watching on TV you can easily see how all those high suspension travel off road vehicles have comparatively soft springs, the way they articulate and absorb big landings. It makes sense they have softer spring, and stiffer damping, than short travel on road suspension.
It also makes sense how poly would not work well in that arena. Also how poly needs sticky lube, and its unsealed, how that would be a recipe for wear in that environment.
#30
Yes, I spend quite a bit of time where we do have to use poly reaming them out for a perfect fit and shaping the ends to form lip seals to keep the dirt out - doesn't stop it completely though. Poly really isn't a good bearing material for cars, great as a bush for absorbing shock, poor as a bearing.