Tein Flex Z - Detailed Info/Review Thread
#21
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Thread Starter
According to SBG's measurements, the rear MR (including cosine of shock) is 1.73:1 or .578.
I think the shock angle is 22 deg? IIRC.
So its getting 788LB of force and via the 22 deg angle...it is compressing worth 850LB.
If we can measure the pure MR (no cosine angle factored), we could probably turn that into actual sprung weight.
I think the shock angle is 22 deg? IIRC.
So its getting 788LB of force and via the 22 deg angle...it is compressing worth 850LB.
If we can measure the pure MR (no cosine angle factored), we could probably turn that into actual sprung weight.
I measured about 0.90-0.95" of travel to the bumpstop, which is probably +/- 0.03" accurate based on how hard it was to measure accurately with everything loaded up.14 mm of preload would probably be right in the middle of the non-bumpstop shock stroke, with 1" of shock droop, 1" of shock bump to the bumpstop, then another 1.6" of bumpstop. That said, I think for a street driven car, 1.1-1.2" of shock droop is probably good to make sure you don't run into droop travel issues on the street, and should give plenty of travel for spirited driving on moderately bumpy surfaces. A little bumpstop action here and there isn't a bad thing on big bumps.
#22
0.578 sounds about right for a MR^2 value. Roughly 1.6-1.7" of spring compression with no preload, so 12 mm preload gives about 1.1-1.2" of spring compression (from static weight) and pencils out right in line with my measurements.
I measured about 0.90-0.95" of travel to the bumpstop, which is probably +/- 0.03" accurate based on how hard it was to measure accurately with everything loaded up.14 mm of preload would probably be right in the middle of the non-bumpstop shock stroke, with 1" of shock droop, 1" of shock bump to the bumpstop, then another 1.6" of bumpstop. That said, I think for a street driven car, 1.1-1.2" of shock droop is probably good to make sure you don't run into droop travel issues on the street, and should give plenty of travel for spirited driving on moderately bumpy surfaces. A little bumpstop action here and there isn't a bad thing on big bumps.
I measured about 0.90-0.95" of travel to the bumpstop, which is probably +/- 0.03" accurate based on how hard it was to measure accurately with everything loaded up.14 mm of preload would probably be right in the middle of the non-bumpstop shock stroke, with 1" of shock droop, 1" of shock bump to the bumpstop, then another 1.6" of bumpstop. That said, I think for a street driven car, 1.1-1.2" of shock droop is probably good to make sure you don't run into droop travel issues on the street, and should give plenty of travel for spirited driving on moderately bumpy surfaces. A little bumpstop action here and there isn't a bad thing on big bumps.
.578 is actually just the MR (not squared). Sorry if that's what you were trying to express.
Wheel rate is derived from (0.335 x spring rate).
They did a direct wheel-shock measurement, though. So its the dimensional MR WITH the shock angle factored in. I guess its all the same, though, when you're trying to turn that into sprung weight.
With everything here assumed correct, a full weight S2000 weighs ~490LB (sprung) per rear corner.
That means like 200LB of unsprung weight (!!!!) per corner.
#25
Just bought these and installed over the weekend - waiting for the set to settle before I do an alignment. I previously bought these for my TL at $740 through a drop shipping website (not sure if we're allowed to link vendors here) that I found through google shopping. The ones for the s2k were listed at the same vendor were at $720 shipped; but I did a google shopping search using the model number and found another site that listed it for $689 shipped. I liked the first vendor so I just had them price match for $689 at 3PM on Tues, and UPS tried delivering the very next day (nobody was home). FWIW the drop ship location orginated in Nevada and I live in the Bay area.
#26
I bought a set of these for my TSX and painstakingly set them up.
I did use them at Tein's recommended settings first...for the sake of science, and to get a baseline.
Don't expect them to ride ANYWHERE near as well as a properly setup Koni/Bilstein. Ohlins is in a different league altogether.
The price on the Teins is noteably lower than the aforementioned brands. But...so is the ride quality.
I did use them at Tein's recommended settings first...for the sake of science, and to get a baseline.
Don't expect them to ride ANYWHERE near as well as a properly setup Koni/Bilstein. Ohlins is in a different league altogether.
The price on the Teins is noteably lower than the aforementioned brands. But...so is the ride quality.
#27
I recommend 6 turns of preload (12 mm) all around, 9 clicks from full hard on the dampers with the first "half click" counterclockwise from the stop being full hard (that first "half click" can be a little vague, so best to get it off the stop and start there).
8 clicks from full hard is a little busy on rough roads for me, but it might work if yours are generally smooth. 10 clicks from full hard makes the car just float over bumps, but it isn't the most controlled feeling when there are some low frequency undulations in a corner.
For spirited driving on relatively smooth roads I recommend 7 to 6 clicks from full hard.
8 clicks from full hard is a little busy on rough roads for me, but it might work if yours are generally smooth. 10 clicks from full hard makes the car just float over bumps, but it isn't the most controlled feeling when there are some low frequency undulations in a corner.
For spirited driving on relatively smooth roads I recommend 7 to 6 clicks from full hard.
#28
You turn the spring perch 6 times.
Each turn (360deg) is 2mm.
Mark a dot on the perch with a paint pen. Then adjust the perches. Each time you see the dot come around again, you moved 2mm.
You cannot rely on actual spring measurements after the suspension is installed in the car. Bushing and swaybar bind can compress the springs and artificially add what appears to be preload.
#29
I just purchased an AP1 with leaking shocks. This suspension is one of four options I am considering as a replacement currently. The other kits I am considering are:
1. ST X (Fixed dampening)
2. ST XTA (adjustable models)
3. Greddy KW coils
Hoping to make a decision with some tax monies soon!
1. ST X (Fixed dampening)
2. ST XTA (adjustable models)
3. Greddy KW coils
Hoping to make a decision with some tax monies soon!
#30
I still am stuck between the cost savings of these vs going with the Bilstein PSS for a few hundred more. Seems like people are agreeing that the ride quality is slightly below the Bilstein or Koni setup but that the cost savings makes it a negligible difference.