2rbolag

I'm having similar issues. Did the bushing kit solve your problem?

7sins2000

The bushing kit helped tremendously, still had some jerking though, so I raised the car an inch or so because it was pretty low on the coilovers. gave it another alignment with 0 front toe and very slight toe in in rear and it solved 90% of it remaining. I just ordered a used ap2 rear sway bar last night, my car never came with one when I bought it and I'm hoping it helps finish off my issue. I'll know Next week. Now it happens so rarely I'm starting to be able to really identify when and what's going on while it's happening so here's hoping it leads to a good conclusion.

s2000Junky

Keep in mind there is a difference between "bump steer" and wheel deflection. In most cases wheel deflection is what people are feeling, and has nothing to do with suspension geometry, but rather stiff suspension and or poor damping causing the wheel to take impact and skip (a stock S2k even suffers from this) causing unsettled handling and car trajectory change in some manner. This happens with sharper abrupt bumps. Worn bushings and or bad suspension geometry will cause actual bump steer, causing the wheel position to change direction simply from compressing the suspension through its stroke range and can be felt in most situations wile in a higher G turn with an irregular surface at some point in that turn to further compress suspension. Typically what most people are feeling is wheel deflection, and that can only be addressed so much on a short wheel base stiff chassis and suspended sports car.

For those running aftermarket coilovers, probably the biggest factor in keeping wheel deflection to a minimum is to make sure your not riding close to the bump stops. Make sure your ride height and pre load settings are conducive for enough suspension compression range. I find ride height should land somewhere centered to wheel droop and wheel compression. So say 1" free bump travel and 1" wheel droop for example.