What are the best bushings to replace to improve ride quality?
#12
Bumpsteer kit works well on any Ap1 but you probably won't notice on the street unless you're lower than 1.5"
I replaced only the torn bushings, which were the upper control arms but it made a huge difference, before certain types of road bumps would make the car darty/sloppy, now I just fly through imperfections, I feel them but they don't affect handling in the least.
I replaced only the torn bushings, which were the upper control arms but it made a huge difference, before certain types of road bumps would make the car darty/sloppy, now I just fly through imperfections, I feel them but they don't affect handling in the least.
#14
Depends how you set up your toe curve.
#16
Originally Posted by B serious
Pillow ball bushings don't offer any deflection. They are great for performance, and will totally un-bind the suspension. But in most positions, they will transfer a lot of noise and vibration. They are also more failure prone/maintenance heavy items as compared to rubber. There's a reason manufacturers almost always use rubber for bushings. You should clock all the bushings for their new ride height. They are clocked to stock height when the car leaves the factory. If you lower or raise the car...the bushings need to be clocked to their new position. Inspect your bushings. Replace the ones that are worn/torn. Your clunking could just be loose sway bar links or other suspension hard-parts (ball joints, tie rods, etc).
Basically, they are a low cost solution that doesn't bitch.
If you do any performance driving at all the minimum I would go with is the powerflex monoball
#17
Are your ball joints nice and tight? That would be the first thing to check, yes AP1's like to toe out when the suspension extends. On a stock AP1 the toe curve is actually negative(full toe out) at full droop. If you do get an RCA, it would also behoove you to get a toe gauge and spacers so you can tune out your toe curve. I did it on my buddy's RX-7, complete PITA to do, but he never goes toe out, regardless what his suspension does, and we noticed how much more planted the car was. If the only thing you do is just stick in some RCA's then yes you have good static toe settings and for most conditions, only at the extremes of suspension loading the toe starts doing funny stuff causing oversteer.
#18
I was referring to how RCA's affect (increase) roll stiffness. You probably shouldn't ONLY do rear RCA's.
Also...RCA's will lower the car. Not sure if the OP knows. He doesn't have adjustable springs.
Also...RCA's will lower the car. Not sure if the OP knows. He doesn't have adjustable springs.
#19
Another thing that can cause wandering is uneven tyre pressure. Even so much as a 1 psi difference in the front will make the car feel like it wants to do anything but go in a straight line.
In the rear it's a lot easier to feel because the car will pull one way under deceleration, and another during acceleration.
In the rear it's a lot easier to feel because the car will pull one way under deceleration, and another during acceleration.