Yes more Ohlins Questions!
#1
Yes more Ohlins Questions!
I set the rears up and have a couple minor questions. I went 10k springs, 4mm from bottomed out on height, 10mm preload from the time there was zero spring play.
1.) the preload was tough off of the car and at one point I turned the top hat and I think shaft maybe a turn or two before realizing I needed to keep the Allen in the shaft and hold the top hat. I know you should be careful about turning the shaft, but I thought it was like "don't turn it 20 turns". Would a turn or two of the shaft mess anything up?
2.) When I put the adjusters back on I have like 30 clicks before it stops from full closed, is this normal?
3.) With my above settings should I stick with Ohlins specs on the front and if I do is everything based off of where they set the height from the factory (i.e. do I just leave the height "as is" out of the box)?
4.) What size are the top hat nuts, are they just OEM? My car had Koni top hats and those nuts are not the right size, I was just going to order OEM but wanted to be sure.
1.) the preload was tough off of the car and at one point I turned the top hat and I think shaft maybe a turn or two before realizing I needed to keep the Allen in the shaft and hold the top hat. I know you should be careful about turning the shaft, but I thought it was like "don't turn it 20 turns". Would a turn or two of the shaft mess anything up?
2.) When I put the adjusters back on I have like 30 clicks before it stops from full closed, is this normal?
3.) With my above settings should I stick with Ohlins specs on the front and if I do is everything based off of where they set the height from the factory (i.e. do I just leave the height "as is" out of the box)?
4.) What size are the top hat nuts, are they just OEM? My car had Koni top hats and those nuts are not the right size, I was just going to order OEM but wanted to be sure.
Last edited by bgoetz; 11-24-2016 at 10:36 AM.
#2
It won't hurt the shock shaft to turn by hand by quite a few turns. But...make sure the tophat nut is FOR SURE tightened securely before making any settings.
Do all your preload settings on a bench. Straddle the shock assy on the ground and use a large prybar if needed, to keep the assembly from rotating beneath you. I use the prybar on either the tophat studs making sure I am not touching the adjuster at all (note that this may not be possible on the S2000)....or on the bottom bracket holes once the bottom bracket is tight.
You should have 32 clicks. Check the instruction manual for a how-to on attaching the adjusters. 30 clicks is not normal....unless Öhlins changed to 30 clicks now? Mine are 32.
I'd set the fronts to Öhlins' specs to start with. Then adjust heights on the car. Again....make sure your tophat center nuts are absolutely tightened to spec before adjusting.
Do all your preload settings on a bench. Straddle the shock assy on the ground and use a large prybar if needed, to keep the assembly from rotating beneath you. I use the prybar on either the tophat studs making sure I am not touching the adjuster at all (note that this may not be possible on the S2000)....or on the bottom bracket holes once the bottom bracket is tight.
You should have 32 clicks. Check the instruction manual for a how-to on attaching the adjusters. 30 clicks is not normal....unless Öhlins changed to 30 clicks now? Mine are 32.
I'd set the fronts to Öhlins' specs to start with. Then adjust heights on the car. Again....make sure your tophat center nuts are absolutely tightened to spec before adjusting.
#4
4. I used my old OEM top hat nuts
Same clicks are used front and rear,
start at 10 from full hard,
Road Test,
wind back softer if needed.
have mine 12F 12 R
Same clicks are used front and rear,
start at 10 from full hard,
Road Test,
wind back softer if needed.
have mine 12F 12 R
#5
I set the rears up and have a couple minor questions. I went 10k springs, 4mm from bottomed out on height, 10mm preload from the time there was zero spring play.
1.) the preload was tough off of the car and at one point I turned the top hat and I think shaft maybe a turn or two before realizing I needed to keep the Allen in the shaft and hold the top hat. I know you should be careful about turning the shaft, but I thought it was like "don't turn it 20 turns". Would a turn or two of the shaft mess anything up?
2.) When I put the adjusters back on I have like 30 clicks before it stops from full closed, is this normal?
3.) With my above settings should I stick with Ohlins specs on the front and if I do is everything based off of where they set the height from the factory (i.e. do I just leave the height "as is" out of the box)?
4.) What size are the top hat nuts, are they just OEM? My car had Koni top hats and those nuts are not the right size, I was just going to order OEM but wanted to be sure.
1.) the preload was tough off of the car and at one point I turned the top hat and I think shaft maybe a turn or two before realizing I needed to keep the Allen in the shaft and hold the top hat. I know you should be careful about turning the shaft, but I thought it was like "don't turn it 20 turns". Would a turn or two of the shaft mess anything up?
2.) When I put the adjusters back on I have like 30 clicks before it stops from full closed, is this normal?
3.) With my above settings should I stick with Ohlins specs on the front and if I do is everything based off of where they set the height from the factory (i.e. do I just leave the height "as is" out of the box)?
4.) What size are the top hat nuts, are they just OEM? My car had Koni top hats and those nuts are not the right size, I was just going to order OEM but wanted to be sure.
Turning the shaft will not hurt, however, to play safe I'd limit spinning it a lot.
Pre-Load Pro Tip: As noodles mentioned you should be setting pre-load (and height) on a bench. However, the path of least resistance is to do this is by using a spring compressor to take a lot of the load out of the spring / pre-compress it... you can do it by turning the jam nut but that's a lot of work and stress on the threads, where your life could be much easier by using a compressor. It's can be frustrating to check this by trial and error... we calculate everything for our customers based on a number of variables they provide to us, as you can't really adjust height and preload settings easily without pulling them from the car (when you've got a decent amount of pre-load in the shock that is, which these do need to be optimal).
Nuts should be 10x1.25
The number of clicks you have is fine, you haven't damaged anything. Ignore the first "dead-space" click between fully closed (full clockwise) and the first detent. We consider that point "1"
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Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
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- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
#7
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__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
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#8
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__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
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