Need advice and help pricing a replacement engine
Context: I have a 2008 CR in RYP and it's everything to me. It has ~120,000 miles and I've put on about 30,000 of those since 2020. Car had some cosmetic repair in the front right corner before I owned it. It's gotten regular maintenance and oil changes, never tracked, and only ever had 2 issues while in my ownership. First was a misfire in the 3rd cylinder around the time of acquisition which was fixed at Honda back in 2020 and a loose coolant hose in 2022 that was a quick fix. Since then, no other issues, driven regularly, taken on a couple road trips, and has never let me down.
Fast forward to about 2 months ago, I was going for an evening cruise on the highway and, randomly, lost revs after applying some gas to change lanes. I was forced to pull over to the shoulder and had it towed to a shop. The 3rd cylinder spark plug threading failed on the coil and the threading fell into the chamber scoring the walls effectively ruining the compression and that was that. Mechanically, I'm well out of my league, so I'm learning through my experiences speaking with a couple different garages and I also have a video when the chamber was scoped showing the scoring:
The consensus from their professional opinions was that re-machining the block is unrealistic and my only option is a replacement engine. My heart sinks at the thought of not having matching VINs but there doesn't seem to be a realistic way around that. I sourced a replacement engine, a 2007 F22c with 67,000 miles in good shape. They've had hands on the engine before and stated it'd be an easy drop-in. My shop connected me with the owner of said engine since they helped swap it out for them. They asked me to make an offer and I don't know what a good price to throw at them would be.
Any advice on 1) am I on the right path to getting my car back on the road? Are there options repurposing my original engine that I am missing? and 2) What is a good offer I can present to the owner of the replacement '07 F22c w/ 67k miles?
Fast forward to about 2 months ago, I was going for an evening cruise on the highway and, randomly, lost revs after applying some gas to change lanes. I was forced to pull over to the shoulder and had it towed to a shop. The 3rd cylinder spark plug threading failed on the coil and the threading fell into the chamber scoring the walls effectively ruining the compression and that was that. Mechanically, I'm well out of my league, so I'm learning through my experiences speaking with a couple different garages and I also have a video when the chamber was scoped showing the scoring:
The consensus from their professional opinions was that re-machining the block is unrealistic and my only option is a replacement engine. My heart sinks at the thought of not having matching VINs but there doesn't seem to be a realistic way around that. I sourced a replacement engine, a 2007 F22c with 67,000 miles in good shape. They've had hands on the engine before and stated it'd be an easy drop-in. My shop connected me with the owner of said engine since they helped swap it out for them. They asked me to make an offer and I don't know what a good price to throw at them would be.
Any advice on 1) am I on the right path to getting my car back on the road? Are there options repurposing my original engine that I am missing? and 2) What is a good offer I can present to the owner of the replacement '07 F22c w/ 67k miles?
There's little data supporting used engine prices. $5500-$6500 though seems to be minimal Ebay pricing. Maybe start there but be prepared to have to cough up thousands more.
Was this a loose spark plug? For those reading along the torque spec was significantly increased many years ago.
For a non-CR or other special model there are other engines available. K24? (I don't follow Honda engine specs.)
-- Chuck
Was this a loose spark plug? For those reading along the torque spec was significantly increased many years ago.
For a non-CR or other special model there are other engines available. K24? (I don't follow Honda engine specs.)
-- Chuck
For used start with A-solutions. They are an excellent salvage yard focused on specific types of cars and usually have a good stock of S2k stuff (and are a trustworthy source).
Used prices are steep for sure on them. If that is a good longblock assembly with that many miles, it will normally sell for over $5k. Shop around and see to get some numbers before making an offer on that one.
Another relatively new option is to talk to CharperBuilt. He is on this forum but you can contact Chris through his site. You can have the bores repaired and recoated using NSC and have it built. It wont be cheap but will be the closer option to having a new engine. You can also work with Millineum in Wi to see if they can repair the bores and coat them (same company Charper uses for this as far as I know) but I think its $2k for the NSC coating + whatever they need to do to repair the bores and you still then need to build the motor. So Charper is probably the better option and just let him deal with it for you. Im not going to speak for him on this but just basing off of someone I know is doing a similar thing I am thinking you are looking at $10k or so for this option. May be less, may be more depending on the extent of the work. but you would still have the original engine. Now, if metal ended up making it through the system enough to damage the crank things start increase more but it sounds like maybe that did not occur.
Another option is a Kswap of course. You can get kits for this from ASM in WI. Probably wont be any cheaper than the option above but if you intend on putting the car on track at any point .. replacement engines are cheaper after Kswapped.
Used prices are steep for sure on them. If that is a good longblock assembly with that many miles, it will normally sell for over $5k. Shop around and see to get some numbers before making an offer on that one.
Another relatively new option is to talk to CharperBuilt. He is on this forum but you can contact Chris through his site. You can have the bores repaired and recoated using NSC and have it built. It wont be cheap but will be the closer option to having a new engine. You can also work with Millineum in Wi to see if they can repair the bores and coat them (same company Charper uses for this as far as I know) but I think its $2k for the NSC coating + whatever they need to do to repair the bores and you still then need to build the motor. So Charper is probably the better option and just let him deal with it for you. Im not going to speak for him on this but just basing off of someone I know is doing a similar thing I am thinking you are looking at $10k or so for this option. May be less, may be more depending on the extent of the work. but you would still have the original engine. Now, if metal ended up making it through the system enough to damage the crank things start increase more but it sounds like maybe that did not occur.
Another option is a Kswap of course. You can get kits for this from ASM in WI. Probably wont be any cheaper than the option above but if you intend on putting the car on track at any point .. replacement engines are cheaper after Kswapped.
Just go with the replacement,same happened to my old engine ! offer a cheeky 3500 plus fitting
as you have no idea of prices 
and see what they say and go from there
may wanna replace clutch plate as your in there
as you have no idea of prices 
and see what they say and go from there

may wanna replace clutch plate as your in there
Yep one user here went through 3 with IP and I think still had issues. Not sure what was going on there. did hear the main builder there left I think ? But, either way, I would buy a used engine or go through Charper before I would go with a resleeved engine in this car. You are going to spend as much having the bores fixed and having it NSC coated as you will with Inline Pro most likely and the NSC coating route gives you effectively a brand new F series block with an even better coating than the original.
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Inline pro has been good recently, at least in my experience. i put a 2.4 stroker in a car early last year and it's been flawless with a lot of heavy driving on it. I know the tread you're referencing, it's a couple years old
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