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Battery draining after Relocated in the trunk

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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 02:46 PM
  #1  
Ek_Jak's Avatar
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Default Battery draining after Relocated in the trunk

Just relocated the fuse box and the battery in the trunk and it started perfect. I let it sit for a week and started it again but the battery was dead.. Any idea why? The last time I did the battery and fuse box relocate I didn't have any problems but I used 0 gauge wire for the power cable. This time I used 2 gauge, does it make a difference? I also grounded the battery on the rear strut bar. Thanks
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 03:28 PM
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get your old multimeter out and check to see if you have a drain.
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 09:36 AM
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I had some electrical gremlins when I relocated my battery to the trunk and grounded in the exact spot you did. I ended up running a ground cable back up to the engine bay and grounding on the factory grounding point...haven't had an issue since.

Scott-
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 09:45 AM
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i would say check your ground and get a multimeter
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 02:03 PM
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It maybe just me but whenever i do a relocation i try to ground on the actual body or weld a small L bracket with a hole on it.
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 06:17 AM
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Wrong wire gauge will not drain the battery, worst case you will find it hard to start or experience sluggish power steering or dimming of lights when the cooling fans or AC turns on. Also, a bad ground will not drain the battery. These are both issues that will cause LESS current to flow, not more.

However, you didn't mention why you think the battery is "dead". Did you actually test it and verify the voltage was 12v or less? Or was it because of slow cranking? Slow cranking could be caused by either of the above 2 issues, as they add resistance to the circuit which causes a voltage drop, so the starter is operating with less than 12v. Of course everything else will operate with a lower voltage too, just not as large a voltage drop as the starter causes.

Just curious - how much additional weight did you add to the car by moving the battery and fuse box? Personally I dislike the idea of moving the battery in a street car, too much work for little gain. Before I did that I would consider putting in a smaller battery to save weight. What's better? Spending a lot of effort to move 28 lbs from the front to the rear and adding another 10 or 12 lbs along the way, or just shedding 10-12 lbs in one step?
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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Thanks for the response, I remember reading something about ppl relocated the battery and had the same issue but can't seem to find the thread. I relocated the battery so my engine bay would have more room and look a lot more clean with the turbo set up I'm about to do. Im not worried about the whole weight thing at all at this point. Just wanted to clean the engine bay up and prevent things from getting melted.

The reason I ask is because I did the same wire tuck to my last s2000 build and didn't have any drainage issues with the battery. But the last build i used 0 gauge power wire and this time I used 2 gauge. Also This time I have a autopag alarm on this car but it wasn't engaged when It was sitting in the garage for a week. I noticed it being "dead" when I opened the door and the dome light was very dim. Tried to start it and it wouldn't crank, even though a week before it started right up.
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 06:19 AM
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I have similar battery drain issues. I'm using a relocated Odyssey style battery and I can't leave it for more than a few days without it dying out. Only way I've continued to use it is by keeping it on a battery tender. I haven't checked for a drain yet, but it's on my list of things to do.
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