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I have some updates for y'all. Not as drastic as I would have hoped, but an update nonetheless:
As you recall, my car was drawing close to ~78mA of current when it's off, with 50mA at the upper limit of what is deemed acceptable, I'd say this is significant:
After removing the 30A "BackUpAcc" fuse from main engine bay fuse box, it dropped to ~59mA:
Removing the interior lighting fuse of 7.5A resulted in ~65mA, roughly ~12mA decreased:
Removing the interior lighting fuse and the "back up" fuse from the interior fuse box led to a further drop to about ~62mA:
So, obviously, my interior lights are drawing a current. so I've pulled the fuse out and for now, the car just won't have any dome lights.
I'm not sure what the "BackUpAcc" from the engine bay fuse box does, I've tried googling it but I can't find a conclusive answer. I keep reading that the BackUpAcc fuse is linked to the interior fuse box. Which will kind of make sense. Because when I removed all 3 fuses in questions, BackUpAcc (engine bay) + Interior Light + Back Up (interior fuse box), the current WILL NOT drop below 55mA. Which could be accomplished by removing the BackUpAcc fuse alone.
Here's my situation as of now:
BackUpAcc fuse from the enigne bay - Can't remove as it is linked to the interior fuse box
Back Up fuse from the interior fuse box - Can't remove as it functions to back up the ECU and etc.
Interior Light fuse - Removed
Side note, this is an interesting observation. My cigarette lighter outlet does not work, so I went ahead to remove the accessory socket fuse even though it's not a source of the draw. But guess what? Removing the accessory socket fuse kills my radio.
As of now, I will have to live with ~65mA of drain. I'm sure my Viper alarm adds to it. But the shop has already swapped the unit with another one, and saw no changes. So, I'm stuck with ~65mA of drain for now.
The BackUpAcc fuse (#54 in the under-hood fuse box) powers fuses 22-27 in the under-dash fuse box, so removing
24 & 25 at the same time does nothing additional, as you noted.
Some of those fuses are supposed to have current draw (#22 to maintain radio presets and #26 keyless entry) so I think
your real problem lies in the 55mA not accounted for by removing #54.
If you haven't actually pulled the fuse for the alarm to test, I would, regardless of what the shop told you.
The BackUpAcc fuse (#54 in the under-hood fuse box) powers fuses 22-27 in the under-dash fuse box, so removing
24 & 25 at the same time does nothing additional, as you noted.
Some of those fuses are supposed to have current draw (#22 to maintain radio presets and #26 keyless entry) so I think
your real problem lies in the 55mA not accounted for by removing #54.
If you haven't actually pulled the fuse for the alarm to test, I would, regardless of what the shop told you.
Where would the alarm fuse be? I've never had a car with an alarm before (didn't believe in them, still don't, but S2000's are a hot commodity among thieves).
alas that's not my area of expertise. If you know where the alarm controller is, you can follow the
wires to a good disconnection point (doesn't need to be the fuse). Otherwise, there are some alarm
installers in this forum who can hopefully point you in the right direction.
We're back to where we started. If you think you need an aftermarket alarm you have to accept it's gonna pull current all the time. In this case like the radio memory and remote entry it's not "parasitic" like those non-deliberate draws like the trunk light stuck on, etc.
Would a small solar panel help while you're out of town and the car stays home?
We're back to where we started. If you think you need an aftermarket alarm you have to accept it's gonna pull current all the time. In this case like the radio memory and remote entry it's not "parasitic" like those non-deliberate draws like the trunk light stuck on, etc.
Would a small solar panel help while you're out of town and the car stays home?
-- Chuck
No, so I still think the battery itself from Costco was suspect. So what I'm going to do is to get a replacement through warranty this weekend.
I may have to deal with the alarm since this car will be parked outside 100% of the time. If I go on a trip for more than 5 days, I'll just disconnect the battery.
So, just curious, why does pulling my Accessory Socket fuse kill the stereo as well? Haha.
the headunit uses two sources of power - one unswitched (#22) to preserve settings, and one switched (#9) so the headunit turns off
when the car is shut off. This has fooled many people when they've checked only one of the fuses when their headunit suddenly
wouldn't turn on.
to keep the battery charged. 12" x 5" will fit on the dashboard. Just lay it on top of the dash. Will need to be wired direct to the battery (there's a connector under the dash that's hot all the time).
02-09-2019, 02:46 PM
If you think you need an aftermarket alarm you have to accept it's gonna pull current all the time. In this case like the radio memory and remote entry it's not "parasitic" like those non-deliberate draws like the trunk light stuck on, etc.
