Sound system install? 2 amps
02-20-2018, 05:49 PM
#1
Sound system install? 2 amps
Hey guys,
I finally got around to getting a sound system for the S. I never installed one before and I can't find any current DIYs(pics gone, etc.).
I already installed the door speakers/tweeters and the deck. Just don't know what wiring I need and how to wire up the amps and the sub. I would take it to a local shop but there's only 2 and their prices are insane.
Can you guys help me?
I have the following:
RECEIVER: Alpine CDE-143BT - Already installed
50 Watts x 4
2 Pre-amp outputs
DOOR SPEAKERS: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch - Already installed
Overall Frequency Response: 35Hz-23kHz
Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms
Power Handling (continuous): 100 Watts
Power Handling (peak): 300 Watts
Efficiency: 92 dB
SUB: Alpine R-W12D4
Size12 -inch
Impedance2 ohms or 8 ohms
Cone MaterialKevlar-Reinforced Pulp
Surround MaterialRubber
Ideal Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet)0.85
Ideal Ported Box Volume (cubic feet)1.71
Port diameter (inches)N/A
Port length (inches)N/A
Free-AirNo
Dual Voice CoilYes
Sensitivity84.7 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response24 - 200 Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts)300-750
Peak Power Handling (Watts)2250
Top Mount Depth (inches)6 3/8
Bottom Mount Depth (inches)7 1/4
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches)10 7/8
Vas (liters)48
Fs (Hz)28
Qts0.56
SUB ENCLOSURE: ZEnclosures Honda S2000 SUB Subwoofer Box 12" w/ cover
Mounting depth - 7 1/8"
Mounting diameter - 11 1/8" for 12" subs
Total volume of airspace - 0.80ft^3
Volume per chamber - 0.80ft^3
Chambers - 1
Style - Sealed (not ported)
Construction - Premium MDF
MDF thickness - 0.75"
Terminals - 1
1.5" Clearance between Subwoofer Mounting surface and grill
DOOR SPEAKERS AMP: AMERICAN BASS PH4100
PH Series 4-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier
Max Power Rating:
4 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 120 watts x 4 chan.
Max power output: 480 watts
4 or 2 channel operation
Variable low-pass filter (50-750 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic filter (24 dB at 15 Hz)
Frequency Response: 15-25,000 Hz
8 gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation
SUB AMP: AMERICAN BASS PH4000MD American Bass 4000W MAX Class D Amp
1 Ohm Stable Class D Mono Block Amplifier
RMS at 1 Ohm 2000 Watts
MAX at 1 Ohm4000 Watts
Frequency Response 10Hz ~ 220Hz
Input Level 5V ~ 0.2V
Variable Subsonic 10Hz ~ 50Hz
Varaible Low Pass Filter40Hz ~ 220Hz
Was thinking of putting both amps in the spare tire area. Can you guys give me instructions on what wiring I will need and how to wire it up please? I will be eternally grateful!
I finally got around to getting a sound system for the S. I never installed one before and I can't find any current DIYs(pics gone, etc.).
I already installed the door speakers/tweeters and the deck. Just don't know what wiring I need and how to wire up the amps and the sub. I would take it to a local shop but there's only 2 and their prices are insane.
Can you guys help me?
I have the following:
RECEIVER: Alpine CDE-143BT - Already installed
50 Watts x 4
2 Pre-amp outputs
DOOR SPEAKERS: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch - Already installed
Overall Frequency Response: 35Hz-23kHz
Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms
Power Handling (continuous): 100 Watts
Power Handling (peak): 300 Watts
Efficiency: 92 dB
SUB: Alpine R-W12D4
Size12 -inch
Impedance2 ohms or 8 ohms
Cone MaterialKevlar-Reinforced Pulp
Surround MaterialRubber
Ideal Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet)0.85
Ideal Ported Box Volume (cubic feet)1.71
Port diameter (inches)N/A
Port length (inches)N/A
Free-AirNo
Dual Voice CoilYes
Sensitivity84.7 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response24 - 200 Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts)300-750
Peak Power Handling (Watts)2250
Top Mount Depth (inches)6 3/8
Bottom Mount Depth (inches)7 1/4
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches)10 7/8
Vas (liters)48
Fs (Hz)28
Qts0.56
SUB ENCLOSURE: ZEnclosures Honda S2000 SUB Subwoofer Box 12" w/ cover
Mounting depth - 7 1/8"
Mounting diameter - 11 1/8" for 12" subs
Total volume of airspace - 0.80ft^3
Volume per chamber - 0.80ft^3
Chambers - 1
Style - Sealed (not ported)
Construction - Premium MDF
MDF thickness - 0.75"
Terminals - 1
1.5" Clearance between Subwoofer Mounting surface and grill
DOOR SPEAKERS AMP: AMERICAN BASS PH4100
PH Series 4-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier
Max Power Rating:
4 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 120 watts x 4 chan.
Max power output: 480 watts
4 or 2 channel operation
Variable low-pass filter (50-750 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic filter (24 dB at 15 Hz)
Frequency Response: 15-25,000 Hz
8 gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation
SUB AMP: AMERICAN BASS PH4000MD American Bass 4000W MAX Class D Amp
1 Ohm Stable Class D Mono Block Amplifier
RMS at 1 Ohm 2000 Watts
MAX at 1 Ohm4000 Watts
Frequency Response 10Hz ~ 220Hz
Input Level 5V ~ 0.2V
Variable Subsonic 10Hz ~ 50Hz
Varaible Low Pass Filter40Hz ~ 220Hz
Was thinking of putting both amps in the spare tire area. Can you guys give me instructions on what wiring I will need and how to wire it up please? I will be eternally grateful!
02-21-2018, 11:28 AM
#2
You'll need to run:
- a (+) power wire from the battery to the trunk, probably 2-gauge due to the 150 amp draw of the sub amp
- a distribution block in the trunk to share the power between the amps
- at least 4-gauge from the block to the sub amp
- at least 8-gauge from the block to the speaker amp
- ground wires of the same sizes leading from the amps to your ground point(s)
- two sets of good quality shielded RCAs running from the headunit to the amps
- speaker wire running from the sub amp to the subwoofer
- speaker wire running from the multi-channel amp to each of the door speakers, either all the way into the doors replacing the existing wiring(best), or to the headunit adapter harness to connect to the factory door wiring
- an amp turn-on wire from the headunit harness to the two amps
02-21-2018, 04:15 PM
#3
You'll need to run:
- a (+) power wire from the battery to the trunk, probably 2-gauge due to the 150 amp draw of the sub amp
- a distribution block in the trunk to share the power between the amps
- at least 4-gauge from the block to the sub amp
- at least 8-gauge from the block to the speaker amp
- ground wires of the same sizes leading from the amps to your ground point(s)
- two sets of good quality shielded RCAs running from the headunit to the amps
- speaker wire running from the sub amp to the subwoofer
- speaker wire running from the multi-channel amp to each of the door speakers, either all the way into the doors replacing the existing wiring(best), or to the headunit adapter harness to connect to the factory door wiring
- an amp turn-on wire from the headunit harness to the two amps
02-22-2018, 12:28 PM
#4
Ok, first, I'm reconsidering the need for 2-gauge power wire - first, since you're driving a 2-ohm sub, your peak current demand
will likely be much lower, and considering the car only has a 105-amp alternator let's hope you're not pulling 150 amps! 4-gauge
will be much easier to work with.
I'd say run a 4-gauge power wire with a 125-amp inline fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block in the trunk. Run 8-gauge
with a 50-amp fuse to the multichannel amp, and 4-gauge with a 100-amp fuse to the sub amp.
Some more useful resources:
Crutchfield's amplifier installation guide
wire length info thread
S2000.org
will likely be much lower, and considering the car only has a 105-amp alternator let's hope you're not pulling 150 amps! 4-gauge
will be much easier to work with.
I'd say run a 4-gauge power wire with a 125-amp inline fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block in the trunk. Run 8-gauge
with a 50-amp fuse to the multichannel amp, and 4-gauge with a 100-amp fuse to the sub amp.
Some more useful resources:
Crutchfield's amplifier installation guide
wire length info thread
S2000.org
02-26-2018, 07:42 PM
#5
Ok, first, I'm reconsidering the need for 2-gauge power wire - first, since you're driving a 2-ohm sub, your peak current demand
will likely be much lower, and considering the car only has a 105-amp alternator let's hope you're not pulling 150 amps! 4-gauge
will be much easier to work with.
I'd say run a 4-gauge power wire with a 125-amp inline fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block in the trunk. Run 8-gauge
with a 50-amp fuse to the multichannel amp, and 4-gauge with a 100-amp fuse to the sub amp.
Some more useful resources:
Crutchfield's amplifier installation guide
wire length info thread
S2000.org
will likely be much lower, and considering the car only has a 105-amp alternator let's hope you're not pulling 150 amps! 4-gauge
will be much easier to work with.
I'd say run a 4-gauge power wire with a 125-amp inline fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block in the trunk. Run 8-gauge
with a 50-amp fuse to the multichannel amp, and 4-gauge with a 100-amp fuse to the sub amp.
Some more useful resources:
Crutchfield's amplifier installation guide
wire length info thread
S2000.org
Okay so do I have this right? :
I'm running 4ga wire with a 125amp fuse to the power block(bk-424). Here it goes 4ga with 100 amp to mono sub amp(1ohm) and 2nd wire 8ga with 60amp fuse to the door speakers amp(2 ohm).
From the 1ohm sub amp I have a 14 GA speaker wire leading to the sub. RCA pair to the deck(KXX-R5M). Remote turn on wire leading to the 2ohm amp and then to the deck. Also have 4GA ground leading into a ground block(another bk-424)
The 2ohm speaker amp is hooked up directly with 16 ga speaker wire to the door speakers. RCA pair to the deck(KXX-R5M). Remote wire leading from sub amp to this amp and then to deck. 8GA ground to the same ground block as 1ohm sub amp(bk-424).
The ground block(bk-424) has 4ga and 8ga input, then have a single 4ga cable run to the back of the trunk and ground it.
AND THATS IT?! Am I missing anything?
02-27-2018, 06:41 AM
#6
Looks good!
A few things:
Just to clarify, while your sub amp is capable of driving a 1-ohm load (not all are able to drive a load that low), your subwoofer per the specs can be wired as either
2-ohm or 8-ohm. Since your amp can go as low as 1 ohm, it can easily drive either 2 or 8 ohm loads, but you'll get much more power if you wire as 2-ohm.
Similarly your mutlichannel amp can drive a 2-ohm load, but your speakers are 4-ohm, so it's irrelevant that it can go as low as 2 ohms.
A ground distribution block may or may not make wiring easier since you'll be grounding your amps in the trunk. Use of distribution block on the (+) side means you
only have to run one wire from the battery to the trunk, but since normally you'd ground the amps to the car in the trunk, you have no long run of ground wire and it
may be easier to just ground each amp individually. But there's certainly no harm in using a block for the grounds, and a benefit is that it makes it easier to disconnect/replace
an amp. Note that a ground block should NOT be fused - looks like you can order that one with links in place of fuses for grounding.
you'll need some sort of large ring or spade terminals to attach to the power wire where it connects to the battery, and to the ground wire(s) where they connect to the
car chassis.
Always disconnect your battery (negative, black terminal) when working!
The easiest way to make good quality wire splices is with a crimping tool/connectors like
BTW, I have no memory of how I cut 4-ga power wire, but I'm pretty sure it was not with wire cutters like on that crimping tool!
A few things:
Just to clarify, while your sub amp is capable of driving a 1-ohm load (not all are able to drive a load that low), your subwoofer per the specs can be wired as either
2-ohm or 8-ohm. Since your amp can go as low as 1 ohm, it can easily drive either 2 or 8 ohm loads, but you'll get much more power if you wire as 2-ohm.
Similarly your mutlichannel amp can drive a 2-ohm load, but your speakers are 4-ohm, so it's irrelevant that it can go as low as 2 ohms.
A ground distribution block may or may not make wiring easier since you'll be grounding your amps in the trunk. Use of distribution block on the (+) side means you
only have to run one wire from the battery to the trunk, but since normally you'd ground the amps to the car in the trunk, you have no long run of ground wire and it
may be easier to just ground each amp individually. But there's certainly no harm in using a block for the grounds, and a benefit is that it makes it easier to disconnect/replace
an amp. Note that a ground block should NOT be fused - looks like you can order that one with links in place of fuses for grounding.
you'll need some sort of large ring or spade terminals to attach to the power wire where it connects to the battery, and to the ground wire(s) where they connect to the
car chassis.
Always disconnect your battery (negative, black terminal) when working!
The easiest way to make good quality wire splices is with a crimping tool/connectors like
BTW, I have no memory of how I cut 4-ga power wire, but I'm pretty sure it was not with wire cutters like on that crimping tool!
02-27-2018, 06:50 PM
#7
Looks good!
A few things:
Just to clarify, while your sub amp is capable of driving a 1-ohm load (not all are able to drive a load that low), your subwoofer per the specs can be wired as either
2-ohm or 8-ohm. Since your amp can go as low as 1 ohm, it can easily drive either 2 or 8 ohm loads, but you'll get much more power if you wire as 2-ohm.
Similarly your mutlichannel amp can drive a 2-ohm load, but your speakers are 4-ohm, so it's irrelevant that it can go as low as 2 ohms.
A ground distribution block may or may not make wiring easier since you'll be grounding your amps in the trunk. Use of distribution block on the (+) side means you
only have to run one wire from the battery to the trunk, but since normally you'd ground the amps to the car in the trunk, you have no long run of ground wire and it
may be easier to just ground each amp individually. But there's certainly no harm in using a block for the grounds, and a benefit is that it makes it easier to disconnect/replace
an amp. Note that a ground block should NOT be fused - looks like you can order that one with links in place of fuses for grounding.
you'll need some sort of large ring or spade terminals to attach to the power wire where it connects to the battery, and to the ground wire(s) where they connect to the
car chassis.
Always disconnect your battery (negative, black terminal) when working!
The easiest way to make good quality wire splices is with a crimping tool/connectors like
https://www.amazon.com/WGGE-Professi.../dp/B073YG65N2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JWR9JK
BTW, I have no memory of how I cut 4-ga power wire, but I'm pretty sure it was not with wire cutters like on that crimping tool!
A few things:
Just to clarify, while your sub amp is capable of driving a 1-ohm load (not all are able to drive a load that low), your subwoofer per the specs can be wired as either
2-ohm or 8-ohm. Since your amp can go as low as 1 ohm, it can easily drive either 2 or 8 ohm loads, but you'll get much more power if you wire as 2-ohm.
Similarly your mutlichannel amp can drive a 2-ohm load, but your speakers are 4-ohm, so it's irrelevant that it can go as low as 2 ohms.
A ground distribution block may or may not make wiring easier since you'll be grounding your amps in the trunk. Use of distribution block on the (+) side means you
only have to run one wire from the battery to the trunk, but since normally you'd ground the amps to the car in the trunk, you have no long run of ground wire and it
may be easier to just ground each amp individually. But there's certainly no harm in using a block for the grounds, and a benefit is that it makes it easier to disconnect/replace
an amp. Note that a ground block should NOT be fused - looks like you can order that one with links in place of fuses for grounding.
you'll need some sort of large ring or spade terminals to attach to the power wire where it connects to the battery, and to the ground wire(s) where they connect to the
car chassis.
Always disconnect your battery (negative, black terminal) when working!
The easiest way to make good quality wire splices is with a crimping tool/connectors like
https://www.amazon.com/WGGE-Professi.../dp/B073YG65N2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JWR9JK
BTW, I have no memory of how I cut 4-ga power wire, but I'm pretty sure it was not with wire cutters like on that crimping tool!
Cool thanks!! I'm just waiting for the wiring(and the rest) to come in and then I'll tear it up. Also ordered ferruls for all the connections and the heat shrinks.
Can't find any cheap 4ga crimpers for the power wire, can I just use anything to squeeze the wire in the ferrul or do I have the have the actual crimper?
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02-27-2018, 07:11 PM
#8
Saw these on EBay. Maybe, a used one, is also a good option.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-...wAAOSwzrxUtyUf
03-02-2018, 01:43 PM
#10
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