Sound system install? 2 amps
Hey guys,
I finally got around to getting a sound system for the S. I never installed one before and I can't find any current DIYs(pics gone, etc.). I already installed the door speakers/tweeters and the deck. Just don't know what wiring I need and how to wire up the amps and the sub. I would take it to a local shop but there's only 2 and their prices are insane. Can you guys help me? I have the following: RECEIVER: Alpine CDE-143BT - Already installed 50 Watts x 4 2 Pre-amp outputs DOOR SPEAKERS: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch - Already installed Overall Frequency Response: 35Hz-23kHz Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms Power Handling (continuous): 100 Watts Power Handling (peak): 300 Watts Efficiency: 92 dB SUB: Alpine R-W12D4 Size12 -inch Impedance2 ohms or 8 ohms Cone MaterialKevlar-Reinforced Pulp Surround MaterialRubber Ideal Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet)0.85 Ideal Ported Box Volume (cubic feet)1.71 Port diameter (inches)N/A Port length (inches)N/A Free-AirNo Dual Voice CoilYes Sensitivity84.7 dB at 1 watt Frequency Response24 - 200 Hz RMS Power Range (Watts)300-750 Peak Power Handling (Watts)2250 Top Mount Depth (inches)6 3/8 Bottom Mount Depth (inches)7 1/4 Cutout Diameter or Length (inches)10 7/8 Vas (liters)48 Fs (Hz)28 Qts0.56 SUB ENCLOSURE: ZEnclosures Honda S2000 SUB Subwoofer Box 12" w/ cover Mounting depth - 7 1/8" Mounting diameter - 11 1/8" for 12" subs Total volume of airspace - 0.80ft^3 Volume per chamber - 0.80ft^3 Chambers - 1 Style - Sealed (not ported) Construction - Premium MDF MDF thickness - 0.75" Terminals - 1 1.5" Clearance between Subwoofer Mounting surface and grill DOOR SPEAKERS AMP: AMERICAN BASS PH4100 PH Series 4-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier Max Power Rating: 4 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan. 2 ohms: 120 watts x 4 chan. Max power output: 480 watts 4 or 2 channel operation Variable low-pass filter (50-750 Hz, 24 dB/octave) Subsonic filter (24 dB at 15 Hz) Frequency Response: 15-25,000 Hz 8 gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation SUB AMP: AMERICAN BASS PH4000MD American Bass 4000W MAX Class D Amp 1 Ohm Stable Class D Mono Block Amplifier RMS at 1 Ohm 2000 Watts MAX at 1 Ohm4000 Watts Frequency Response 10Hz ~ 220Hz Input Level 5V ~ 0.2V Variable Subsonic 10Hz ~ 50Hz Varaible Low Pass Filter40Hz ~ 220Hz Was thinking of putting both amps in the spare tire area. Can you guys give me instructions on what wiring I will need and how to wire it up please? I will be eternally grateful! |
You'll need to run:
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Originally Posted by oth
(Post 24423141)
You'll need to run:
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Ok, first, I'm reconsidering the need for 2-gauge power wire - first, since you're driving a 2-ohm sub, your peak current demand
will likely be much lower, and considering the car only has a 105-amp alternator let's hope you're not pulling 150 amps! 4-gauge will be much easier to work with. I'd say run a 4-gauge power wire with a 125-amp inline fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block in the trunk. Run 8-gauge with a 50-amp fuse to the multichannel amp, and 4-gauge with a 100-amp fuse to the sub amp. Some more useful resources: Crutchfield's amplifier installation guide wire length info thread S2000.org |
Originally Posted by oth
(Post 24423718)
Ok, first, I'm reconsidering the need for 2-gauge power wire - first, since you're driving a 2-ohm sub, your peak current demand
will likely be much lower, and considering the car only has a 105-amp alternator let's hope you're not pulling 150 amps! 4-gauge will be much easier to work with. I'd say run a 4-gauge power wire with a 125-amp inline fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block in the trunk. Run 8-gauge with a 50-amp fuse to the multichannel amp, and 4-gauge with a 100-amp fuse to the sub amp. Some more useful resources: Crutchfield's amplifier installation guide wire length info thread S2000.org Okay so do I have this right? : I'm running 4ga wire with a 125amp fuse to the power block(bk-424). Here it goes 4ga with 100 amp to mono sub amp(1ohm) and 2nd wire 8ga with 60amp fuse to the door speakers amp(2 ohm). From the 1ohm sub amp I have a 14 GA speaker wire leading to the sub. RCA pair to the deck(KXX-R5M). Remote turn on wire leading to the 2ohm amp and then to the deck. Also have 4GA ground leading into a ground block(another bk-424) The 2ohm speaker amp is hooked up directly with 16 ga speaker wire to the door speakers. RCA pair to the deck(KXX-R5M). Remote wire leading from sub amp to this amp and then to deck. 8GA ground to the same ground block as 1ohm sub amp(bk-424). The ground block(bk-424) has 4ga and 8ga input, then have a single 4ga cable run to the back of the trunk and ground it. AND THATS IT?! Am I missing anything? |
Looks good!
A few things: Just to clarify, while your sub amp is capable of driving a 1-ohm load (not all are able to drive a load that low), your subwoofer per the specs can be wired as either 2-ohm or 8-ohm. Since your amp can go as low as 1 ohm, it can easily drive either 2 or 8 ohm loads, but you'll get much more power if you wire as 2-ohm. Similarly your mutlichannel amp can drive a 2-ohm load, but your speakers are 4-ohm, so it's irrelevant that it can go as low as 2 ohms. A ground distribution block may or may not make wiring easier since you'll be grounding your amps in the trunk. Use of distribution block on the (+) side means you only have to run one wire from the battery to the trunk, but since normally you'd ground the amps to the car in the trunk, you have no long run of ground wire and it may be easier to just ground each amp individually. But there's certainly no harm in using a block for the grounds, and a benefit is that it makes it easier to disconnect/replace an amp. Note that a ground block should NOT be fused - looks like you can order that one with links in place of fuses for grounding. you'll need some sort of large ring or spade terminals to attach to the power wire where it connects to the battery, and to the ground wire(s) where they connect to the car chassis. Always disconnect your battery (negative, black terminal) when working! The easiest way to make good quality wire splices is with a crimping tool/connectors like BTW, I have no memory of how I cut 4-ga power wire, but I'm pretty sure it was not with wire cutters like on that crimping tool! |
Originally Posted by oth
(Post 24425567)
Looks good!
A few things: Just to clarify, while your sub amp is capable of driving a 1-ohm load (not all are able to drive a load that low), your subwoofer per the specs can be wired as either 2-ohm or 8-ohm. Since your amp can go as low as 1 ohm, it can easily drive either 2 or 8 ohm loads, but you'll get much more power if you wire as 2-ohm. Similarly your mutlichannel amp can drive a 2-ohm load, but your speakers are 4-ohm, so it's irrelevant that it can go as low as 2 ohms. A ground distribution block may or may not make wiring easier since you'll be grounding your amps in the trunk. Use of distribution block on the (+) side means you only have to run one wire from the battery to the trunk, but since normally you'd ground the amps to the car in the trunk, you have no long run of ground wire and it may be easier to just ground each amp individually. But there's certainly no harm in using a block for the grounds, and a benefit is that it makes it easier to disconnect/replace an amp. Note that a ground block should NOT be fused - looks like you can order that one with links in place of fuses for grounding. you'll need some sort of large ring or spade terminals to attach to the power wire where it connects to the battery, and to the ground wire(s) where they connect to the car chassis. Always disconnect your battery (negative, black terminal) when working! The easiest way to make good quality wire splices is with a crimping tool/connectors like https://www.amazon.com/WGGE-Professi.../dp/B073YG65N2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JWR9JK BTW, I have no memory of how I cut 4-ga power wire, but I'm pretty sure it was not with wire cutters like on that crimping tool! Cool thanks!! I'm just waiting for the wiring(and the rest) to come in and then I'll tear it up. Also ordered ferruls for all the connections and the heat shrinks. Can't find any cheap 4ga crimpers for the power wire, can I just use anything to squeeze the wire in the ferrul or do I have the have the actual crimper? |
Originally Posted by RXM9600
(Post 24425904)
Can't find any cheap 4ga crimpers for the power wire, can I just use anything to squeeze the wire in the ferrul or do I have the have the actual crimper?
Saw these on EBay. Maybe, a used one, is also a good option. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-...wAAOSwzrxUtyUf |
Try using Posi-Twist and Posi-lock connectors. So easy and bulletproof. Amazon. Used on my stereo S install.
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Originally Posted by cosmomiller
(Post 24426602)
Try using Posi-Twist and Posi-lock connectors. So easy and bulletproof. Amazon. Used on my stereo S install.
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