thank you to everyone that has been helpful. And I hope that this thread will be helpful for others going the same route.

I will be ordering the Link G4X in a few weeks.

I currently have an AEM X series wideband gauge that I plan to use with the Link G4X. I am aware that I need the CANJST4 which I will be getting. But from the pictures of the can cable I don't see how it would connect with the AEM wideband gauge...

I will be wiring everything myself which I am decent at. I couldn't find any information or videos on what cables go where for the AEM wideband to the CANJST4 cable.

Any help is much appreciated!

 

So, has anyone actually bought linkecu and had it tuned for sos supercharger? Trying to see if this is better solution to have stage 1 with piggyback stuff vs actual ecu tuned.
SOS recommended me going through dyno and have the fuel etc adjusted but if ecu can handle all these out of the "box" (hopefully there is some OTS map). then it would be the route I'd rather take.
Since I am not looking for power for the build, anything conservative tune works for me.

 

My plan is to run Link with my HKS SC. With an ECU like the Link, there are no OTS maps that I am aware of.

 

1. It depends on where you live really. In CA I think it is harder for modified ECUs etc with how stringent CA laws are.
   • If you are not in CA, why not get something that will ensure the safety and reliability of your engine for many moons to come?
2. The piggy back is a very crude way of adjusting parameters that help your engine stay alive. You also need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that increases the fuel pressure when it senses a change in manifold pressures.
   • Follow up to Bullet 2 - do you value the longevity of your engine? With how expensive s2000s are these days - I would go the standalone route and ensure that your engine is optimally adjusted and is tuned for your elevation.
   • You can also get engine safety provisions in place that can save you a very expensive engine rebuild later.
   • If you don't have the money for the LINK you can always find a second hand AEM V2 for less and it will work just as well.
   • Back to your question, the factory ECU needs more fuel. The piggy back I think taps into a couple of sensors and adjusts their voltage to compensate for the increase in fuel that is being dumped in.
     • You CAN get away running it like this. Is it the BEST option? (No for money saving in the long run, and I disagree in terms of safety and reliability lol).
3. With any type of forced induction, if you already bought the kit, spend the extra bit more of money for injectors, a fuel pump and a nice standalone computer to make sure your car is setup properly.
   • This way you have room to grow if you want to increase the boost later.
   • P.s. don't forget a wideband O2 sensor for monitoring AFRs...

 

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I just have one question is the uego and fuel pressure sensor a must when using the sos link ecu? I know when I had my wrx my tuner recommended a uego wideband but I’m not very familiar with s2000 tuning.

 

Yeah you'll want a wideband at a minimum. The 4D fuel mapping capabilities of all the modern ECUs need a fuel pressure sensor. You can use the ECU with out it, but I'd recommend taking advantage of all of the modern features.

 

Did you guys get VSS (vehicle speed) channel to work in Link G4X Plug n Play.
What configuration did you have to do to get it working? Thanks

 

I know this is a somewhat old thread, but for people searching I wanted to comment.

I had nothing but issues with the LINK G4X with my 02’ S2000. Car is NA with intake, 70mm test pipe, and 70mm T1R single exhaust. Went to LINK to max out NA capability with bolt ons on the car and eventually go turbo. Remote Tuned through Evan’s tuning.

Did the car pull harder than stock and have cool features like launch control? Yes. The car was noticeable faster and I did enjoy launch control. However, the negatives outweighed the positives for me and I just recently went back to factory ecu.

1) car suddenly had the case of low speed hesitation and bucking while AFR’s would go insanely rich for unknown reasons. No one could figure out how to fix this and car does not do this on factory ecu.

2) Very inconsistent starting. Cold starts were slow and hot starts were insanely quick. Like quick enough to almost make the car stall. Never knew how long I needed to hold the start button cause the car would just start however slow or fast it felt like

3) When first getting tuned, all of a sudden my car showed it was overheating. My car only has 40k miles on it and never overheated on factory ecu. Rad fans tuned on when they were supposed to, bled the radiator no leaks or air bubbles. We came to the conclusion that the base file from link may be incorrect for the ECT calibration. We changed it to the K20 calibration which showed the car no longer overheating but who knows if that calibration was correct or not.

4) No local support where I’m at in Orlando. No one tunes on LINK, no one helps with LINK, and no one knows about any of these issues since it’s a relatively new computer. No one could walk me through installing the LINK CAN wideband and gauge since it hooks up different than the AEM x series. Just hard to get help when issues arose which they did frequently.


The frustration and headache were not worth the extra power the car got. Happier on the factory ecu albeit slower but oh well. I’m not racing the car anyway.

For anyone looking to go to LINK. My only advice would be to find a reputable tuner and have knowledge of how to wire and hook up all this stuff yourself. If you are like me and look to YouTube or forums on how to fix these things, you’re shit outta luck and I would stay away.

 

This is most unfortunate to hear. Im seriously considering the Link ECU from SOS.
Did you consider making the changes and going with Hondata?