MorngWoodStewie

I maxed my Id1ks on 11.7psi with fuel at 70 base, content was at e70 +30-33% interpolation/guestimation. Also my fpr still isnt rising 1:1 but i get an extra 5-11 from base and it goes to low 60's in vacuum. i knew i would max them i just wasnt expecting 11.7 thats all. but i still havent got it on a dynojet so honestly that will give me some warm and fuzzy if im anywhere near my last figures. This was also dialed in to not break 92% IDC and its got some extra timing in there soo will see. She still boogies and i feel safer beating on her then with the 91oct (that was part of the goal)

Mijae007

Oil change and new plugs today. Just some routine maintenance. I gapped the ngk8 plugs to .019 and it seems to idle and drive a little smoother than the old set which were at .017.
Car still dies sometimes right after startup once warmed up. It revs up to about 1500rpm right at startup then cant hold idle at 1000rpm continues to dip lower in rpm ultimately dying. Anyone know how to tune for this?

MorngWoodStewie

That is really weird cause i know you drive by wire to so it shouldnt be that bad.

Mijae007

Theres never a dull moment. So this happened. Maybe i should brace it to the block??

staylor725

Damn, add a flex joint if you don't have one already. I hear the heat wrap causing things to crack also.

MorngWoodStewie

Edit: i just dont think the wrap really had any affect here in this case, and the break was more caused by another factor. Especially being a pretty fresh "build"

Either its dumb luck, fabricator, or choice of parts cause i just finished what ever amount of miles im short from the east coast. :thumbsup: ...and then
Sunday i drive back to Kansas! (Everything i have is wrapped)


Picked my whip up in san diego (2mnths ago), drove north to balladesport (oil change) drove to Kansas. Beat the piss out of it some more in Kansas. Took leave (changed oil) drove to NY now on my way BACK to KS

also my daily to work and in the Army i think i do more driving then anything being in a MICO unit on post but then driving back n forth to the Airfield (UAS)

sorry to hear your still having hot part issues mijae. I think at least one vband either off turbine or somewhere right after bend would help and pretty cheap to get installed, but point is a vband would allow more "give an take" with heat expansion and other forces applied during driving. It must sound really cool right now tho! :giddyface: lol... sorry, funny ,, not funny tho

staylor725

The person that told me heat wrap can make thinks crack builds 1000hp+ Supra's and gtr's so I'm sure he knows his stuff. I was going to heat wrap mine into he recommended that I don't and haven't any of my full-race hot pipes crack in 4 years. No saying that heap wrap is what caused his problem just thought I would share the advice I was given and has worked for me.

Mijae007

Yea maybe its just bad luck on my end. I do have a flex joint just after the downpipe and the connection from dp to exhaust is a v band clamp. There was no stress when assembling everything and bolting things up so i dont know what to attribute it to. Its welded back up now, hopefully its troublefree from here on out. Maybe ill remove the wrap...still thinking about it.

MorngWoodStewie

I know on mine it has a v band off the turbine and then another just before routing down past the fire wall. Always think why the hell there is so many. But you could spend all day adjusting and moving/wiggling stuff into the perfect spot u want.

I dont blame you for not wanting to trust it with the kind of problems u been having. While im over here back in Kansas lol. Did about 2700 miles in five days.

Mijae007

Got a few new shots of her rolling