Blowing Dipstick - The latest solution ? And temps
 

Hi all, I have supercharged s2000 engine. Runs as sweet as a nut and never missed a beat.



Went to my first trakday at Snetterton this week and had an issue.



My dipstick blew 2 times leading to oil everywhere. I have the rocker cover with the old 90degree PCV valve and have seen various fixes including introducing a supra PCV Valve and also just venting that to an oil catch can ( my front breather goes to a catch can). There was also talk of a different breathing system (Kramtvent) but I couldn’t locate that to purchase so must be old hat? As all the posts are old. What is the latest recommendation on breathing?



Also the car hit water temp of 105 degrees on the circuit a few times, what are people comfortable running on track temp? Again massive variation on information.

How much boost? I'd definitely look into a more free-flowing vent for your setup. A lot of people would advise against running no PCV and having no vacuum source from the intake. Personally, I've run both ports to a large catch can with a large breather and haven't had issues, but again, it's not a recommendation, as the opinions differ on that.

I'm still seeing Krank Vents available, unless the websites just haven't updated stock?

https://www.denniskirk.com/hayden-en...rd/H300705.sku

The Supra PCV, I can't comment on. As far as the stock AP1 PCV, there's simple elbows you can buy to replace that, and then run something larger/less restrictive in-line like a KV or the Supra PCV. The debate still goes on about maintaining proper crank case pressure via a PCV. I'll let some smarter people chime in on this. Some do it, others don't. *Shrug*

The o-rings on the dipstick are also known to wear out and create less tension to hold the dipstick in. You can buy new o-rings or just replace the dipstick. Mine was popping up and replacing it has made it fine. I'd suggest doing this first and then evaluating if ventilation is the issue or not. More ventilation will not hurt but it may not be necessary.

Regarding coolant temps, 205 is at the upper limit of acceptable range, assuming the 105 was a typo. Hitting it a couple times shouldn't be much of an issue. What are you running for a radiator/fans? Biggest question: Is all of the factory undertray and ducting still present? That plays a MAJOR role in cooling in terms of ensuring that air flows to the radiator. If you're still on a stock radiator perhaps a modest upgrade to a Koyo will help (probably not). Without a shadow of a doubt, though, the SBG Mr. Sideways dual pass will keep your temps in check if the higher ECT is bothering you.

I'd do a leakdown test on the cylinders to make sure you're not getting excessive blow by past the piston rings. If not, then change the O rings on the dipstick and move to a free flowing PCV situation IE: ditch the PCV and just vent it out a catch can.

Guessing 105 Celsius as in 221F which is way too much, wouldn't want to think of the oil temperatures you are seeing with that.
Should get the cooling sorted first and then ditch PCV and route that to a catch can instead.

105°C is well within the safe range for engine coolant in this application. Honda Type 2 coolant won't boil until 130°C with a 15psi (1bar) radiator cap and a 1.1 cap is standard (or otherwise available) so boiling point is gonna be higher. Normal street temperature runs in the 90°C range before the radiator fans activate. Oil viscosity is measured at 100°C hence higher viscosity motor oil is usually recommended if you're going to be running these temperatures. I'd try 10W-40 for starters. I'd also look at more cooling but the sky is not falling.

-- Chuck

Where does your 205 number come from? I've seen 208 on hot autocross days pulling off course and then parking the car. It heat soaks for a few minutes until the fans are able to get the temps down.

I always rotate dip stick 180 deg it sort of jams against rocker cover

yes I heard this after. Also thought about making a bracket to hold it down. But didn’t want to
hide an issue.