ROFLv8

I have a few questions. Do we need to install a pedal stop or do you just do adjustments to the clutch pedal? And the lines that come off the throw out bearing does one hook up to the master cylinder and the other is the bleed?? Pictures of the setup would be nice , just trying to get a idea before I install this.

S2-Kai

Yes, the instructions from Competition states to install a manual clutch stop to prevent excessive throw out bearing action and consequent thrust bearing wear. Forgot to take pictures of my lines during the install, but 1 is for the master cylinder and the other is for the bleeder, as you said. If after the install and initial bleed and you don't have any clutch pressure, disconnect the bleeder fitting and pump some pressurized air through the system (brake fluid will back out the reservoir), reinstall the bleeder fitting, refill, and bleed again.

bobbyrandolph440

Pic of this clutch stop plz

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jaundice

Please use a clutch stop. I killed 3 motors before I decided it was the CC twin killing thrust washers and not oil starvation. I never used a clutch stop

ROFLv8

I have a idea .. I guess I'll post pictures when my clutch comes and I install it

passmans2kny

guess I should install a stop

ROFLv8

With a clutch stop the clutch pedal won't go down all the way. So I'm hoping the car will still wanna start or I'm gonna have to take the safety switch off

CoolGuy094

The switch should have some adjustment to it as well. You should be able to get it to work; if not you can make up a new mount for the switch or for the nylon piece that depresses the switch.

jaundice

Or more importantly, just bypass the switch and start the car without depressing the clutch. That is the most important instruction CC gives you.

illestrolla

This.

Don't depress the clutch on starts, especially cold starts, and don't sit on the pedal at lights.

I don't have a stop, but my clutch is engaged out enough that I'm not overextending. Still plan to weld a stop up within the next week or so just for peace of mind.