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Charper's Boosted F24c build diary

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Charper's Boosted F24c build diary

Old 08-13-2018, 07:24 PM
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Started to finish the bottom end last week and realized I didn't have any standard series rod bearings on hand, only HX. My clearances were coming out larger than I'm comfortable with at ~.0033" so I had to order some standards.
In the mean time I went ahead and started porting the IM for the 70mm throttle body as well as massaging the oil pump outlet. I may cut open the IM to port the runners, but it'll depend on how my time is looking. Not sure yet.

I was doing this at home, so I'll have to finish up the IM when I get some calipers so its symmetrical.

Traced out the larger gasket so I have a reference.




The ruff in for now.



Brand new oil pump






Looking at the outlet port on the top right, you'll notice the sharp edge. All we are looking to do here is put a radius on it and smooth the port out, not enlarge it. The smoother the path, the more flow we will have.



This is close to the final product. The edges need to be smoothed a bit more with a sanding roll, but those are at the shop.

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Old 08-13-2018, 07:34 PM
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Here are some weight comparisons from the stock f20 components. I'm running HD pins. I'm the standard ones are quite a bit lighter, but strength is more important here. I don't have numbers on the cranks, but the k24 crank I have now has been balanced to the components im running anyway.









Last edited by Charper732; 08-13-2018 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 08-15-2018, 02:36 PM
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neat, keep up the documentation
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Old 08-15-2018, 02:54 PM
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For the hell of it put a magnet on the oem piston
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Old 08-29-2018, 01:48 PM
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Been busy with a couple other oem builds but finally had some time to get back at it.

This block got moved to the counter as I'm out of engine stands. Is what it is.

After getting the new rings from CP I was able to get ring end gap to numbers I was comfortable with top at .022 and second at .028
There are quite a few big name companies that make ring squaring tools. Most only fit a certain size bore and are close to $100. This one is fully adjustable and was like only $40?




Notice the rag to the right. The main rings were already cleaned. That dirt is just from the oil rings.





I had to mix standard and HX series bearings to get the clearances I needed on the rod bearings, .0025" is what I aim for.




Another wipe down before assembly





Here is where we come to wrist pin circlip installation. There is a number of different ways to do this...and a number of ways to really maul up the pin bore as well. I'm about positive my method isnt the best as it can scratch the outside portion, but i've never had a clip fly to the other side of the shop either.
It is absolutely critical that the clip not be allowed to scrap in inside of the pin bore where the piston pin rides. When I installing the first clip I use 2 pins so the clip cant physically push past the and do any damage. The pictures below show my method for pushing the clip into it's slot.

First, I position the clip as shown. With both fingers, i push the ends downward at the same time. No tools should be used at this point or you risk something slipping and damaging parts.









We in there.




On a side note, It took me a minute to find plugs for the oil squirters. It a bastard thread size at 8x.75mm Shoutout to wadzii(jason) for the heads-up. Golden eagle actually sells them for less than $15. They are the same for B as they are F series.






Installing piston/rod assembly into the block. Using a ring compressor tool we slide them into the bores. You'll see a lot of people using a hammer to do this, while it does work, it can also damage a ring if the ring compressor isn't flush against the bore and a ring pops out against the deck. You should have no issue using your thumbs and a quick movement to push the piston into the bore.




I didn't get take pictures of rod cap installation. Just make sure the rod cap is orientated in the correct direction. I torqued these to 50ft lbs with arp lube.

Once all piston/rods are installed we double check deck height. The piston rises .040" above deck on an OEM motor. These engine is setup the same. Im not going to CC the head, but this motor should be in the neighborhood of 11.3:1 comp.

Zero the gauge against the deck.




.040" above the deck.




I just picked up a spare head the other day which I'll be using on this build. I would like to have 4piston do a CNC port job on it, but I just don't have the time. The transition from valve seat to port varies quite drastically from head to head, as i've seen anyway. This one has is a bit worse than some others I've seen. All i'm doing here is cleaning up that transition. No other port work will be done. It is VERY easy to scrap a head if you're not using a flow bench and have a basic understanding of what you're doing. I'll be cutting the seats another day.


This was before any work was done. Those are machine marks from the factory. It's hard to show it in picture form, but there was a considerable amount of material that was protruding outward into the port.




After



Last edited by Charper732; 08-29-2018 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:07 PM
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Appreciate the details, blocking off oil squirters, how is the piston lubricated?
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by starchland View Post
Appreciate the details, blocking off oil squirters, how is the piston lubricated?
The main purpose of the squirters is to help cool the oem piston, not lubricate. Oil squirting out from the rod bearings are the main source of lubrication for the the wrist pins and cylinder walls A lot of people have removed squirters when sleeving without issue. I ceramic coated the top of the piston to reduce heat absorption. I also run strictly on E85 which burns cooler than gasoline.
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Old 08-31-2018, 09:00 PM
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What tool are you using to bore out the intake manifold to 70mm? Would like to see final result and a review of how much work/hours it takes. Thinking of boring mine out just a bit and getting the Science of Speed Throttle Body.
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Old 09-01-2018, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by F1TwoThousand View Post
What tool are you using to bore out the intake manifold to 70mm? Would like to see final result and a review of how much work/hours it takes. Thinking of boring mine out just a bit and getting the Science of Speed Throttle Body.
I used a pneumatic angle grinder with a deburring bit, but you can use a dremel with a similar deburring bit set from harbor freight. Mine came from https://www.mcmaster.com/#rotary-deb...tools/=1eeqspt
And just finish it off with a sanding drum. The job only takes maybe an hour.
I'll post pics when I get back to finishing the Intake.
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:37 AM
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Finally back at it. Time has been super tight so trying to get this finished has been a hassle. Upon inspecting the head I realized the exhaust guides were on their way out so I had bronze guides installed and all the seats cut. Funds are getting tighter and tighter so I'll be using the stock valves for now, after break-in is done ill have some more funds available and i'll pull the head back off to inspect it, change the valves out along with installing adjustable cam gears.


Picked up some Inlinepro M12 headstuds as they were on sale for $249 from realstreet, couldn't pass that up.





Got the head back from the machine shop. Guides installed, seats cut, and decked .006"




Cleaning those guides out, tons of crap from machining






Inspecting all the valves for wear and measuring the diameter of the stems and overall length. They measure out fine, but my main concern is the tip and retainer groove for the keepers. You can somewhat gauge the condition by measuring the overall length of the valve. Still not the most comfortable running these so they will be changed out after the break-in.






I had all the seats cut. With new valves on bronze seats I usually don't bother lapping them in. Since these are used valves on steel seats I lapped them in with fine grit to make sure its going to seal from the start.






Cleaning all the valve train. Spraying brake clean in the roller rockers to get the oil out and feeling the bearings is a good idea. I had a few that didn't feel all that great. Luckily I have a couple valve trains laying around to pull parts off of.





Throwing on an old head gasket to torque the head down onto and check VTV and PTV clearances





Installed 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve with some random light weight springs I had laying around so I am able to push it easily with my finger






So here we put a dial indicator on the retainer and rotate the crankshaft and check the PTV clearance at various degrees This is normally the part where we put a degree wheel on the crankshaft and degree the cams in...except I don't have the adjustable cam gears in yet so that doesn't do us any good. PTV has plenty of room, so much so I didn't bother to write the measurement down. I'l revisit this after break-in and do a how to on degreeing in the cams.





Now it's torquing the head, installing the valve train and buttoning this thing the rest of the way up.






Got the widened rear wheels in the other week and had the tires installed today... Thicccccc





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