hey guys, im kinda stuck here and i dont know what to think. i bought an engine and im having some oil burn/smoke issues, and wanted to grab the opinion of some of the big HP guys on here.

heres what i am told:

its got about 500 miles on it
it is good to take up to 1200-1300whp
fully built valvetrain - 6.6mm exhaust valves
loose ring gaps for big hp
10:1 compression
f20C

- so, when i start it up it smokes... it goes away after a minute.. then when i shut it down over night oil will puddle up in the exhaust valve reliefs, which is what is burning off when i start it up
i checked the valve stem seals and they were not properly tapped down on the stem. i have since replaced every seal with a new one, and tapped them down on. no change in symptoms.... which is also wierd.


i dont know if this is even a problem? im only planning on running about 500whp with it on an s366 - am i just not forcing enough air into the cylinder with my setup to make it actually seal? i know these big hp engines are going to burn more oil.. but i don know if this is excessive. i just want to make sure im not going to do any damage to it by driving it. when i watch videos of other big hp hondas i dont see them smoking etc.. but maybe theyre aready warmed up and shit. this is my first built engine, so im pretty new to everything.

 

I run over 45+lbs a boost on a 7275, and I don't burn a lick of oil.


Honestly engine needs torn down by a professional, and looked at, you should no have oil pooling in the chambers big hp motor or not, OR who ever gapped the rings royalty screwed up.

 

Also lookin at those cylinder walls, do I see a lot of scoring?

 

well supposedly it was built by a professional. but, there were some unclear things going on like... why were the valve stem seals not tapped down properly??

theres some history on this engine that im not being told.

do you think a leakdown/compression test is worth doing?

 

Honda stem seals? Obvious but Intake and exhaust in correct locations? Maybe the valve stems are a different size from oem?

 

i used the supertech blue 6.6mm valve stem seals i was told to use on it.. so im pretty sure theyre the correct ones

 

It should be illegal to turbo or build an engine without knowing or doing a leakdown/compression test. No matter what the case these are 2 vital checks no matter what the situation.

 

i didnt do one because the engine was supposed to be really low miles, fresh build... i bought it out of the car so i really couldnt do a compression test before buying it..

and now i dont want to start it and warm it up to do a test if i think im going to hurt something

 

Do you have paperwork for this engine? Do you know the build specs and who built it? I don't expect you to rope the builder in public and don't condone that but hope that YOU have that information. If so, wouldn't this be worth discussing with them?

This might be an expensive lesson...

 

Totally understand. But a leakdown can be done on a cold engine it should still seal up 100%. And point of doing it especially when new is to keep track. So if you get 100% seal on a new engine and in 6 months you test and you have 5% leakage then 10% leakage 6 months later its you can atleast have an idea that something is going wrong and progressively so. If an engine has 100% seal and perfect compression it really doesnt matter if it has 100 miles or 100,000 its still considered in excellent mechanical functioning shape asfar as it being an air pump. Just good to know, I wish i wouldve done leakdown tests on engines i had years ago it wouldve saved alot of headaches