F1TwoThousand

Spd id be happy to go over the car with anyone thats interested the more people running similar set-ups the more info we can share and benefit. I got around to finishing up the heat wrap on all the hot side pipes. Everything in the engine bay is f unction over form but the wrap with black silicone paint came out better than i thought. Dei says the titanium wrap does not need the silicone spray but i think it benefits it immensely only thing i found is it needed ALOT of coatings for it to absorb the black paint. I mustve used 1 can on the turbo manifold itself.

echofilter

Good choice on the liquid filled mounts (imo), looks like mine when I replaced them.

If you end up with the clearance, a good ETD should prevent those from splitting due to excessive engine torque in the future

F1TwoThousand

Agreed, sudden engine movement rather than alot of vibration absorption over time is why the oem mounts tend to literally snap off at the liquid filled region(their structural weekspot) imo. A torque dampner would help this.

F1TwoThousand

Decided that one build parameter i really want is to rev to 10k rpm. That is more desirable to me than say make 1000whp, so to each his own. That means i'll eventually be going for some lightweight but still strong rods and pistons when the stock engine finally goes. Cylinder head came back. Went with 4piston cnc port as they were the very best i could find after alot of research. They cnc ported the head(increased flow) went with manganese bronze valve guides(they cool and lubricate valves better than oem guides) had them cnc open the combustion chamber abit(this lowered compression ratio ever so slightly but also assured that all combustion chambers were the exact same size for more equal power between cylinders)

For the head build i went with Ferrea S10100 springs and titanium retainers(these are lighter than oem and the increased spring pressure they provide will make sure valves fully close at full boost and keep those titanium retainers properly seated as titanium galls more easily than steel). For the valves i went with Ferrea competition plus super alloy(basically lightest, highest heat resistant, strong valve i could find will allow for the valvetrain to rev to higher limit)

F1TwoThousand

Took some measurements to visualize some airflow transitions:

1. SOS throttle body opening 70mm

2. SOS throttle body exit 64mm

3. Throttle body thermal gasket 65mm

4. OEM 2004 Ap2 Intake manifold opening 64mm

5. Oem ap2 2004 intake manifold exit 47mm

6. 4Piston ported intake manifold opening 50mm

Charper732

good god, they must have changed out their cutter on the resurfacer..or you polished it? I don't think i've ever seen a headgasket surface that polished after being decked. Looks good.

I'm about to sell my IM/TB setting as I just picked up an upgrade. If you put your IM gasket up to the head and then up to the IM you'll see where you can take off quite a bit of material towards the injectors and smooth out the ruff transition

F1TwoThousand

Thats how it arrived, looked good. I noticed they installed k20 valves, k20 1mm oversized valves are basically same size as oem S2k size valves with different degree flo dish valve, whatever that means...i also asked for the combustion chamber to be CNC'd dont know if that enabled using the k20 valves for a performance benefit... i didnt ask why out of respect for the shop, this might be one of their special recipes to get one of the best s2k flowing heads out there...

K20 1mm oversize valves are very similar to oem s2k valves. I wonder if theres a performance difference of if they just happen to be cheaper...

F1TwoThousand

Plugged the 4 secondary air injection holes:

Finished, looks cleaner

Kyle

Yay for the SOS TB! I just got a shipping confirmation for mine today! I think a lot more people would run these if they didn't have to work or pay a core charge to get one...I feel like a lot of people can't be bothered to send in their TB or something....That's why I got one for 50 bucks as a core and sent it in to them, just got there today and they turned around and sent out the new one same day; can't beat that.

F1TwoThousand

Agreed i wish i wouldve done it sooner, cant wait to see how all this stuff pairs up.

I started putting the head back together, was super dissapointed when i saw this:

a very long, significant scratch on cyl4. I could feel it with my finger nail though it didnt "catch" but i could feel the scratch when going across it. The good news is i did a leak down test and all 4 cylinders are at 100% leakdown. Sticking with 125k oem shortblock until it lets go... all 3 other cylinder walls looked excellent im just going to send it like this and keep and eye pn cyl4. I hope it was just a piece of metal that got in the oil but was caught and taken care of via oil filter.


removed carbon bulild up from pistons and putting head back slow and steady.