SPECIAL-OPS-S2K

Hello everyone!

I purchased a 2001 S2K last July and drove it for the remainder of the year (until winter came) and ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT!!! But the speed and agility is addicting and so for my winter project I have been slowly adding things to get my car ready for FI... Here what I have added so far:

Koyo Polished Aluminum Radiator
Flex-A-Lite Electric Fan Setup
Mugen Radiator Cap
Mugen Low Temp Fan Switch
Mugen Thermostat
Toda Balanced 6-Puck Cerametalic Clutch and Flywheel
Toda Racing Spec. Pressure Plate

I also bought but have not installed:

BDL 70mm Throttle Body
Welded and Bored to 70mm Intake Manifold
Krank Vents
AEM 1052 EMS
AEM Gauge Type UEGO Controller AFR Gauge
T1R Strut Bar and X Brace
Inline Pro 675cc Injectors


I am going to be purchasing my turbo kit here in the next couple months and plan on going Inline Pro all the way... Here is my question, I want to install the remaining items I have and get everything buttoned back up and running again. I would like to drive the car for a couple months and then around June or so (saving up the cash) install the turbo kit. Is there anything ELSE I need to get before going turbo? Also I want to run the car off of the EMS N/A for the couple months before I go FI so I can play around with it a bit and get a taste of tuning with it. I have heard it is much safer to tune N/A for a beginner than it is to try tuning FI. I plan on having a performance shop do my dyno tune once I install the turbo. So basicly I just want advice as to whether my plans are safe, and if there are any things you all would suggest. Will the fact that I have the 70mm TB make tuning dangerous for me (chance of lean condition) ??? Do you think the AEM base map will start and run my car with the mods I have listed installed? Any advice helps!

I almost forgot that I am also going to install the Inline Pro 3mm head gasket here in a couple weeks or so I am planning... will it be ok to run N/A with the lower compression ratio?

Thanks so much!

HELP ME GO FAST!!!

NFRTurboTerror

I dont think the 1052 basemap will have any trouble running your car with those mods. I also dont think running n/a low compression is going to hurt anything but your hp output.

You should probably look into a oil cooler/relocator (depending on your setup, most have to have a relocator). Also I would consider buying the nissian rear diff conversion or at least a reinforced rear diff.

I cant think of anything else at the moment but if i do ill post it up.

SPECIAL-OPS-S2K

I think the Inline Pro kit has a oil filter relocation option... anything else that i should get in preparation for the turbo install? I would rather spend the money now to do things right the first time than be cheap and spend alot more time/money fixing it later... thanks guys your knowledge is priceless!

XclusiveAutosports

As far as tuning an EMS its really not as straight forward as you might think it would be. There are so many damn charts and tables to adjust its not even funny. I would never just mess around with it if I had no experience, let alone drive on a base map for a few months. Its a bad idea to have the car running like crap if you don't have to. After you have the car tuned and you want to mess around with it to tweak it here or there, that is fine, but I wouldn't experiment with my motor if it was NA or FI. This opinion is coming from someone who has been there and done that with setting up crap base maps to make my car run good enough to get it to the tuner. Did I learn a lot about the EMS by doing it? Yes, but I wouldn't run the car like that for a few months.

Tyraid2K

I don't want to rain on the parade but that toda flywheel isn't the greatest choice for FI, perhaps even a downgrade from stock. Competition clutches Stage1 fly should be best, it's not their lightest but it's what's recommended at 11.4lbs

C45P312

Tune is key. After you get what you want installed, i would get a tune. I personally wouldn't put on the 3mm headgasket because you will lose power and the whole point of it is to lower compression to run higher boost. since you don't plan on being boosted yet, i would hold of till you get the turbo kit.

ChefJ

Injectors.

SPECIAL-OPS-S2K

First off thanks for the replys! Ok so now for my questions... Why is the Toda Flywheel a downgrade? When I go F/I I hope to run at about 400-425whp or so... is that safe with stock internals as long as I run the 3mm head gasket? What type of PSI numbers would I need to run to acheive numbers like that? How big of injectors?

Now on to my main concern:
I REALLY dont want to drive the car on a base map for a month either, and I thought for some reason that it would be simple enough for me to adjust it and get it running well enough on my own... I'm not sure who I am going to have do my dyno tune for me yet but I do know that they are not close. I have been looking at a place in Chicago since that is remotely close to where I live... (NEBRASKA) But if the car will be running like crap on a base map I dont want to drive it from here to there in that condition... does anybody know of tuners that are closer? I would REALLY want to have the boys at inline pro tune my setup but the fact that they are in DC makes that almost impossible... since that is way farther than I would want to drive the S with anything but a factory ECU map.

Would the car run with the mods that I have mentioned earlier off of the stock ecu? Even if the compression ratio was lowered by the head gasket?

I know I have alot of questions and I thank you all for your answers!

Spec_Ops2087

Toda flywheel I think is a downgrade because its TOO light, you want something heavier and beefier with FI since there will be a lot more stress in those critical parts.

Its hard to say what PSI wil achieve 400-425hp without knowing what kind of turbo you want. With a GT30 your looking at around 18psi for those numbers and for a GT35R probably around 16psi.

The basemap is safe enough to drive nicly straight to the tuner without any kind of boosting / WOT along the way. As you said, its NOT a good idea to run around for a month on just a basemap. Thats just asking for trouble. Ask around in your local forums on some more local tuners. Remember, only go to a place that has experience with S2ks otherwise, again your asking for trouble with a 5000 dollar motor + turbo kit.

If the compression ratio is lowered, I don't think the ECU could handle it. Thats why you should install the headgasket while your installing the turbo kit and AEM EMS. Just do it all at the same time. Its easier and safer.

XclusiveAutosports

^ Just remember that the basemap that comes with an AEM EMS out of the box is for a NA s2k. I would look for someone to send you their map from a turbo s2k and keep it out of boost anyway, but for such a long drive it would be nice to know that you have some cushion for error. Worse comes to worse I would just look at the fuel table maps and you can see that hey are dependent upon manifold pressure (with the base NA map that comes with the EMS it will only go from vac up to "0"). You can adjust and fill in the chart so that it will run super rich up to say 10 just in case you were to boost the car. It would run like crap, but at least it wouldn't run entirely lean where the engine would be fed boost without any fuel. Your best bet though is to just ask for a turbo map from someone and don't boost the car.