Heatshield for battery/fusebox
#1
Heatshield for battery/fusebox
Hey guys. I have had my trackforged kit installed since July 2012 and put about 2,500 miles on it at 475whp. I have not had any problems what so ever with this kit. I didn't relocate ANYTHING with this kit and so far, everything has held up ok with the heat. All of my exhaust components are ceramic coated and my downpipe is also wrapped. I run a DEI titanium turbine blanket.
That being said, I know for a fact that the fusebox and battery will not hold up to this heat forever. The fuse box gets extremely hot and malleable after driving for a while, as does the battery. I have attempted to use heat tape on the side of the fuse box the best i could, but it doesnt hold up and eventually loses its stickiness and falls off. I can tell the plastic on the fuse box is beginning to get a little brittle, so i decided something had to be done. I realize many people have made their own heatshields so this is by no means my creation or anything. This thread is only to let people in my similar situation know that this simple aluminum shield makes a world of difference and really works. I think trackforged should include this with their turbo kits
First off, this only works if you relocate the heater control valve. I used the alloycraft bracket. I bent the A/C lines very little, which was simple and took 30 seconds. I moved the fuse box over toward the passenger fender as much as possible and made a small bracket to hold it. It only moves about an inch, maybe less. I used a sheet of aluminum .019" thick that you can pick up from Home Depot. I bought a 3'x3' sheet which is enough to make about 4 of these. I removed my downpipe and used a piece of cardboard to make a template. The heat shield is held in place using the 3 factory bolts for the OEM heatshield. Traced the cardboard to the aluminum sheet and cut it out using tin snips. Drilled the 3 holes for mounting and rounded off the top corners. Threw some primer and high temp black paint on it to finish it up. The whole install from start to finish took about 4 hours, most of the time was letting the paint dry. I put everything back together and took it out for a hard drive. I popped the hood and found that the fusebox and battery were significantly cooler than before. They were only warm to the touch, just like a OEM car would be. Im relieved that this worked so well and i dont have to relocate any of these components now. I highly suggest this for anyone with a sidewinder kit retaining the factory battery and fusebox locations. I will be making 3 more of these with my template since I have so much aluminum left if anyone is interested in having one.
That being said, I know for a fact that the fusebox and battery will not hold up to this heat forever. The fuse box gets extremely hot and malleable after driving for a while, as does the battery. I have attempted to use heat tape on the side of the fuse box the best i could, but it doesnt hold up and eventually loses its stickiness and falls off. I can tell the plastic on the fuse box is beginning to get a little brittle, so i decided something had to be done. I realize many people have made their own heatshields so this is by no means my creation or anything. This thread is only to let people in my similar situation know that this simple aluminum shield makes a world of difference and really works. I think trackforged should include this with their turbo kits
First off, this only works if you relocate the heater control valve. I used the alloycraft bracket. I bent the A/C lines very little, which was simple and took 30 seconds. I moved the fuse box over toward the passenger fender as much as possible and made a small bracket to hold it. It only moves about an inch, maybe less. I used a sheet of aluminum .019" thick that you can pick up from Home Depot. I bought a 3'x3' sheet which is enough to make about 4 of these. I removed my downpipe and used a piece of cardboard to make a template. The heat shield is held in place using the 3 factory bolts for the OEM heatshield. Traced the cardboard to the aluminum sheet and cut it out using tin snips. Drilled the 3 holes for mounting and rounded off the top corners. Threw some primer and high temp black paint on it to finish it up. The whole install from start to finish took about 4 hours, most of the time was letting the paint dry. I put everything back together and took it out for a hard drive. I popped the hood and found that the fusebox and battery were significantly cooler than before. They were only warm to the touch, just like a OEM car would be. Im relieved that this worked so well and i dont have to relocate any of these components now. I highly suggest this for anyone with a sidewinder kit retaining the factory battery and fusebox locations. I will be making 3 more of these with my template since I have so much aluminum left if anyone is interested in having one.
#2
Registered User
The fuse box gets extremely hot and malleable after driving for a while, as does the battery. I have attempted to use heat tape on the side of the fuse box the best i could, but it doesnt hold up and eventually loses its stickiness and falls off. I can tell the plastic on the fuse box is beginning to get a little brittle, so i decided something had to be done. I realize many people have made their own heatshields so this is by no means my creation or anything. This thread is only to let people in my similar situation know that this simple aluminum shield makes a world of difference and really works. I think trackforged should include this with their turbo kits
Interested in an extra... PM me please.
I'm using this sheet material Lava heat sheild fabric that covers my fuse box, but the battery is taking a beating for sure... even with the downpipe coated and wrapped.
#3
Registered User
The wires for the O2 sensor should not be over the edge of the sheetmetal like that- it should have a grommet or at least a u-shape/collar to let it sit in...eventually it will cut right through
#4
Awesome feedback, thanks for making this thread and sharing your results, as someone who is seriously contemplating the trackforged kit in the near future, this is good information, I was before thinking that the battery and fuse box would be fine just leaving everything as it came.
#5
Yea I forgot to mention that. We fixed this with zip ties. The wire does not rest on the shield. Another option is to take a small diameter vacuum hose and cut it down the middle then slip it over the edge of the shield all the way around.
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