HELP: Ptuning oil scavening pump not turning on :-(
05-23-2017, 12:15 PM
#11
I think there is something weird going on with your oil pressure sensor. I've installed the kit in three different cars with three different oil pressure sensors and never had any issues. Both the OEM ring terminal and the PTUNING ring terminal go on the end of the OEM oil pressure sensor and get tightened down by the 7mm bolt on the end of the sensor and the pump should turn on as soon as you key the ignition. I did have it installed in the PTUNING Oil Distribution Block at one point and it still triggered the pump, but I don't remember if the pump turned on as soon I keyed the ignition.
I will also wire it up the same way you described (the way i had it before).
There is an older thread where a guy had the same problem with his ptuning kit etc. Another guy chimed in that the oil dummy will turn on when there is a blown fuse somewhere? Do you have any experience with this on a 2006+ s2000?
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...-937882/page2/
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Last edited by R00567; 05-23-2017 at 12:20 PM.
05-23-2017, 12:34 PM
#12
I posted this in another thread last year.....it may help with your issue:
Check to see if the oil scavenging pump is working. If you remove the scavenging pump trigger wire going to the stock oil pressure sensor and then turn the ignition to key on engine off, the scavenging pump should run ( doing this just makes it easier to hear the pump run as opposed to listening to it with the engine running).
I was having a similar issue and found an intermittent electrical connection occurring at the plug to the oil scavenging pump. Cut that off and hard wired it in. (Long story short I had to buy a new turbo because of this)
I also recently "permanently" disconnected the trigger wire going to the scavenging pump so that I can hear it run every time just before I start the engine.
Also If the pump is not running check to see if you blew the heater control, cooling fan relay fuse (no. 21 in the interior fuse box (under the dash)). The previous sentence may depend on which iteration of the kit that you have. I have the very first version, I believe the last version they came out with they had the scavenging pump pull power from elsewhere (anyone with the latest version of the kit like to chime in?). If you do have the earlier version you may want to upgrade the no. 21 under dash fuse from a 7.5amp to a 20 amp as was advised to me by PTuning.
Hope that helps
Check to see if the oil scavenging pump is working. If you remove the scavenging pump trigger wire going to the stock oil pressure sensor and then turn the ignition to key on engine off, the scavenging pump should run ( doing this just makes it easier to hear the pump run as opposed to listening to it with the engine running).
I was having a similar issue and found an intermittent electrical connection occurring at the plug to the oil scavenging pump. Cut that off and hard wired it in. (Long story short I had to buy a new turbo because of this)
I also recently "permanently" disconnected the trigger wire going to the scavenging pump so that I can hear it run every time just before I start the engine.
Also If the pump is not running check to see if you blew the heater control, cooling fan relay fuse (no. 21 in the interior fuse box (under the dash)). The previous sentence may depend on which iteration of the kit that you have. I have the very first version, I believe the last version they came out with they had the scavenging pump pull power from elsewhere (anyone with the latest version of the kit like to chime in?). If you do have the earlier version you may want to upgrade the no. 21 under dash fuse from a 7.5amp to a 20 amp as was advised to me by PTuning.
Hope that helps
1) i will try disconnecting the trigger wire and see if can hear the pump like you. personally i have bad ocd about everything working and worrying / to the point of slight insanity. I think i might wire it up as you did so i can confirm the pump is running each time before the motor *( it is close to impossible to hear it when the engine is on)
2) i have the newest iteration of the kit, and i will be sure to upgrade that cooling / heater fuse (#21).
3) i checked last night and when i turn the ac button ON and the car is running, my AC condenser fan will not turn ON :-/ my fans are the stock configuration (but with spal fans). I need to see WTH is going on because the engine bay fuses are good to go (i have 30A fuses for the spal fans - one for the cooling side , and one for the ac condenser side).
05-23-2017, 12:48 PM
#13
For some reason, between testing the pump with the wire connected to the OEM sensor and not connected to it, the pump "sounded" stronger without being connected to the sensor.
Now I will listen for the pump to turn on (almost) everytime I have the key on, engine off prior to starting the car. I am not worried about the "dummy oil light" because if the pump doesn't work you will get huge plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe (that's the same as the dummy light for me). If that happens just shut the car down and figure out the problem. Oil leaking into the turbine/compressor for a SHORT period will NOT harm the turbo. These turbos don't have "seals" they have piston rings that do a similar job as the ones in our engines. Ask me how I know!
Since I wired it way I have stated above I have not had a single problem!
Now I will listen for the pump to turn on (almost) everytime I have the key on, engine off prior to starting the car. I am not worried about the "dummy oil light" because if the pump doesn't work you will get huge plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe (that's the same as the dummy light for me). If that happens just shut the car down and figure out the problem. Oil leaking into the turbine/compressor for a SHORT period will NOT harm the turbo. These turbos don't have "seals" they have piston rings that do a similar job as the ones in our engines. Ask me how I know!
Since I wired it way I have stated above I have not had a single problem!
I have thankfully been doing 1-2 minute intervals to start the car and check things out, but i have not seen any smoke (knock on wood). Thanks again for the heads up and i will test out some of your suggestions and report back.
Last edited by R00567; 05-23-2017 at 12:54 PM.
05-23-2017, 03:25 PM
#14
I would just run it to the stock fuel pump wire at the in cabin fuse box. Then hard line your fuel pump. (I don't think hard lining is necessary, Not like it would draw on it anyways since it just to trigger the relay so the other hard line powers the oil pump. But this would work the same and would leave ports open for a temp and or pressure gauge.
Also I think it might be useful because the stock fuel pump wire will get juice for a second when u turn the key on (so maybe you'll be able to get a quick ear of it coming on, kinda a yup it's on must be good)
also because that's a failsafe, if the car is not running it won't keep supplying juice to fuel pump (so oil pump will be off to). But then when you start car everything starts juicing again.
I think your safe as long as you don't drive it or get that pressure up for right now. I would have a second hand tho. So they can say if it comes on right at start up, honestly that's all it should take. Shouldn't be more then a second maybe two.
About the fans: a multimeter is your best friend
. I'm sure you could even use it to test your questionable oil sensor.
Edit: I re read your first post, and am questioning now maybe your stock oil pressure wire somewhere in the harness is grounding on something. Try to run it as far as you can and inspect everything.
Remember how I said I wanted a gauge but only had one Port... So I pretty much let the old stock wire hang in the bay and sometimes it would touch the block or something else i think and would trigger my light in dash. But of course my standalone pressure gauge was working fine and had pressure. At least this is what I chalked the light coming on was cause I hadn't used it in forever. This may be cause for both problems though (in dash light during rpm and no trigger)
This should help https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/engine-oil-pressure-switch-operating-principles-kiril-mucevski
Also I think it might be useful because the stock fuel pump wire will get juice for a second when u turn the key on (so maybe you'll be able to get a quick ear of it coming on, kinda a yup it's on must be good)
also because that's a failsafe, if the car is not running it won't keep supplying juice to fuel pump (so oil pump will be off to). But then when you start car everything starts juicing again.
I think your safe as long as you don't drive it or get that pressure up for right now. I would have a second hand tho. So they can say if it comes on right at start up, honestly that's all it should take. Shouldn't be more then a second maybe two.
About the fans: a multimeter is your best friend
. I'm sure you could even use it to test your questionable oil sensor.Edit: I re read your first post, and am questioning now maybe your stock oil pressure wire somewhere in the harness is grounding on something. Try to run it as far as you can and inspect everything.
Remember how I said I wanted a gauge but only had one Port... So I pretty much let the old stock wire hang in the bay and sometimes it would touch the block or something else i think and would trigger my light in dash. But of course my standalone pressure gauge was working fine and had pressure. At least this is what I chalked the light coming on was cause I hadn't used it in forever. This may be cause for both problems though (in dash light during rpm and no trigger)
This should help https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/engine-oil-pressure-switch-operating-principles-kiril-mucevski
Last edited by MorngWoodStewie; 05-23-2017 at 04:10 PM.
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R00567 (05-25-2017)
05-25-2017, 04:55 AM
#16
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