schhim

So I had to remove my intake manifold looking for a piece of the AEM FPR I dropped into the engine bay. Fortunately I found it so since I had the manifold off I decided to order the Honda manifold gasket. Although S/Cs don't suffer as much as turbos from heat soak it would still be a good idea to keep the air as cool as possible before going into the engine. From what I read on this post, it looks like it's pretty effective. I don't have any baseline numbers to compare dyno numbers, nor will I remove it to see the difference but I figure I'd upgrade since the part was off.

cheddaboy

Ive heard that they melt on our motors and the bolts get loose. Not sure if you can maybe run an oem gasket directly on the head followed by the hondata gasket to help with the melting issue and use nylon nuts on the studs.

NWDyno

I don't have any temp data, but for 20 bucks and beings it's reusable I've always used one on all my race engines. Torque it to OEM spec and have never had an issue.

vader1

Eight years, no issues. Torque, drive for a week, retorque.

HOWEVER........depending on the model year of your S, you will probably find a better effect from relocation air temp sensor than using the gasket. I have done both. Even with the gasket, the sensor heat soaks and is slow to respond to changes in intake air temp.

blixhavn

only issue I've had in 3 years with mine is that there is no hole for the coolant bleeder on the front of the block. Noticed this when I put my FBM manifold on, but that was an easy fix to just drill a hole through it.

schhim

I was finally able to get everything put back together and everything seems fine. I had to grind the lower mount holes to account for the thicker gasket but the manifold as cool enough to touch after driving it around for 15 minutes. We'll see if it makes any difference on the dyno.

s2000Junky

Ive always used them and never had an issue. After using one for about 5 years and taking manifold off a couple times during that time frame it started to get pretty deformed in the areas exposed, but never leaked. This is what id expect. I think its worth doing if you already have the manifold off, but I think eliminating coolant circulation from the manifold entirely is more beneficial and in combination works great. Just cap off the supply line at the block port/thermostat which resides an arm length under the intake manifold. Much easier to see/get to with manifold off, but totally doable with it on if you know what your looking for. The easiest thing to do at that point is just cut the line and plug the end with a bolt and hose clamp and zip tie it to something so it inst dangling around.

schhim

I never thought about that. Wouldn't blocking off the coolant port to the intake manifold essentially disable your coolant sensor? I assume you'd have to find another place to read the coolant temp, right? Either way, I doubt I'd go that far as I've already put everything back together. Thanks for your input though!

s2000Junky

The thermostat and temp sensor is not bypassed due to where its located. And also the IAC valve/sensor reads regardless if there is fluid passing through it or not. No issues, no faults triggered. Your only isolating the intake manifold and therefore TB of course, from coolant. Or better put, heat

F1TwoThousand

I thought of doing this but then how would one bleed air out of the coolant?

im going to use a skunk2 intake manifold gasket will give my findings aswell: