So I finally got my car running and here are the specs for you to evaluate.
01 S2000
Inline Pro stage 1 turbo setup
Inline Pro built 9:1 engine (70miles so far)
Rebuilt starter (long story)
Battery moved to trunk with 4 gauge wire
New bigger than stock battery (more CCA)

So my car seems to start like a normal AEM car, car turns on after 2-5 seconds of cranking. When my car got hot today driving (210 temp), on uncorrected AEM values, being 95+ degrees and full AC on, I stopped at house. 3 minutes later I went outside to move the car and it cranked kinda slow and then blew my 100A fuse that I have setup holding the 2 positives in the engine bay to the 4 gauge wire going to trunk. I replaced fuse immediately and it kinda slowly cranked and didn't start. I said screw it and went inside. 30minutes later went outside to a much cooler car and it started right up over and over again no problems. Not battery and doesn't seem to be the alternator as it's reading 13.5 output as called for in manual.

Any idea's?

Car in question so this isn't a boring post.

 

if the battery was in the trunk then there shouldn't be an issue with it being too hot. as opposed to it being under the hood.

Maybe you need a new battery? hmmmmm

 

Nope like in post up there, new battery, like bought yesterday. Just went to start up car from cold and it seems to crank a hell of a lot faster. Where is DSDDCD or whatever I read his DIY and it makes me think I have to have something wrong. But I don't really want to just go out and buy thicker wire if it's not going to make a difference.

 

Should be using 1 gauge wire from trunk.

 

its not the battery, its your hot start tune and your cold start tune aint that good either. 2-5 seconds cranking to start = CRAP.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbaxzUxwBzg [/media]

mine starting cold.

 

He blew a 100 amp fuse. I don't disagree that your hot start tune needs work. But, for you to blow that fuse, I think you're not sufficiently grounded somewhere. That's a big fuse. Are you sure your battery ground is solid and to bare metal...not painted?

 

whoa. i skipped over that part. hmm, sounds like either two problems, are one problem causing the other.

 

where are your fuses in relation to everything else...can you post your wiring diagram. If you have the fuses between the battery and the old positive then it will blow this fuse. If you notice most batteries have ratings up to 500 CCA which is cold cranking amps..meaning that it will pull up to 500 amps in extremely cold conditions.

 

Okay so my ground holding the intake manifold to the chassis was a little loose. So far I've only been able to have 1 hot start today and it cranked much faster. I'm going to post up a diagram of what I did later as even if this is fixed I still think my setup needs improvement.

 

^^^
As recommended above, you should be using a 1-gauge wire. A lot of amps go thru the wire during cranking. Your 100A fuse blowing is a results of more amps being drawn than what the wiring can support. Look into "Longacre" wiring kits. I've use them myself. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-48050/?rtype=10

Also make sure you have a good grounding point and good gauge wire to ground

Remember your physics/science class: thinner wire crossection = higher resistance

You may also want to use a higher rated fuse or 2 of those 100A in parallel. The starter can see currents from 60 to 200A , depending on how hot/cold the oil/motor is. And you want that fuse as close to the battery as possible so in case of a short, power is cut in a short run.

Post your changes and let us know. Always good to share fixes for others to use in troubleshooting.