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Kraftwerks SC inbound, advice would be helpful.

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Old 12-18-2018, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Dethred
Thanks for all the additional info, which will be critical for the installation process.

I sent an inquiry to Kraftwerks regarding the larger inlet size on the 92 blower, and I'm waiting for a response. That's one headache I wasn't expecting when I ponied up the extra $400.

I realized that once installed I'll need to either have the car towed to a tuner (nooooope), beg someone for a calibration that they've already been using just to limp the car 20 miles to either InlinePro or PTuning, or try to limp the car to either shop using the base calibration on the AEM v2.

This brought me to inquire with Evans Tuning about getting an e-tune. Ideally I'd like to have it tuned on a Dyno to get actual numbers, even though I trust Evans Tuning to do a great job. He mentioned needing a wideband O2 sensor for remote tuning, but I don't recall seeing that listed in the kit parts list. Is this another thing that is mandatory but isn't included in the kit, or am I more confused than I think I am?
I'd been meaning to ask them about that....If they don't offer it they really should...or just go back to the -91....It shouldn't be any more than $20-30 to have the pipe made up for you though....it's ideal to have the intake in the location LHT puts it.

A good tuner worth their salt that have tuned setups like yours will always send you a basemap to get the car running and carefully drive it to the shop staying as low on the rev range as you can.

A wideband O2 like Rolan said is necessary for remote tuning so he can log your AFR and make adjustments to your fuel & timing tables. Typically you'll see cars on the dyno with the sniffer attached to the end of the tail pipe. That's a wideband sensor. I'd recommend having a wideband to keep an eye on your AFRs, but it looks like many cars come out of LHT without gauges.....so take that as you will. Just have a good tuner send you a basemap, and just drive the car there nice and easy.
Old 12-18-2018, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle
I'd been meaning to ask them about that....If they don't offer it they really should...or just go back to the -91....It shouldn't be any more than $20-30 to have the pipe made up for you though....it's ideal to have the intake in the location LHT puts it.

A good tuner worth their salt that have tuned setups like yours will always send you a basemap to get the car running and carefully drive it to the shop staying as low on the rev range as you can.

A wideband O2 like Rolan said is necessary for remote tuning so he can log your AFR and make adjustments to your fuel & timing tables. Typically you'll see cars on the dyno with the sniffer attached to the end of the tail pipe. That's a wideband sensor. I'd recommend having a wideband to keep an eye on your AFRs, but it looks like many cars come out of LHT without gauges.....so take that as you will. Just have a good tuner send you a basemap, and just drive the car there nice and easy.
Yeah that's true. The tailpipe sniffer... it reads about 0.5 less or more than the actual AFR number though due to the reading taking place right at the end of the exhaust as opposed to earlier up the stream. Better for an AFR gauge to be on-board. I believe that gauges may not necessarily be of paramount importance with blower setups because its very linear and highly unlikely that you will ever see a boost spike that can definitely happen with turbo setups. Those spikes can be devastating to AFR and you wouldn't even know it in time without a visual aid. I'd still like the AFR gauge on my A pillar and believe its necessary for added safety even with a blower kit up front. Who knows if an ECU or piggyback unit can go haywire and send your AFR thru the roof lol... rather be safe than sorry. We drive rare cars after all

P.S. Don't be like my friend with his '05 who had a piggyback tune and the car seemed to run well but meanwhile the pistons were getting fuel washed. Three years later? Rod snaps...if he had an AFR reader on board surely he would have seen abnormally rich figures...
Old 12-18-2018, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RolanTHUNDER
Yeah that's true. The tailpipe sniffer... it reads about 0.5 less or more than the actual AFR number though due to the reading taking place right at the end of the exhaust as opposed to earlier up the stream. Better for an AFR gauge to be on-board. I believe that gauges may not necessarily be of paramount importance with blower setups because its very linear and highly unlikely that you will ever see a boost spike that can definitely happen with turbo setups. Those spikes can be devastating to AFR and you wouldn't even know it in time without a visual aid. I'd still like the AFR gauge on my A pillar and believe its necessary for added safety even with a blower kit up front. Who knows if an ECU or piggyback unit can go haywire and send your AFR thru the roof lol... rather be safe than sorry. We drive rare cars after all

P.S. Don't be like my friend with his '05 who had a piggyback tune and the car seemed to run well but meanwhile the pistons were getting fuel washed. Three years later? Rod snaps...if he had an AFR reader on board surely he would have seen abnormally rich figures...
Surprised no one remarked about all of the soot and black smoke blasting out of the tailpipe.....I don't think I've ever heard of that happening until now, typically it's the opposite lol; too lean and boom....the guy's bumper must've been completely black at the tailpipes.....what a goof.
Old 12-18-2018, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle
Surprised no one remarked about all of the soot and black smoke blasting out of the tailpipe.....I don't think I've ever heard of that happening until now, typically it's the opposite lol; too lean and boom....the guy's bumper must've been completely black at the tailpipes.....what a goof.
Yeah it must have been. What a shame... ignorance is definitely not bliss in this game!
Old 12-19-2018, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle
I'd been meaning to ask them about that....If they don't offer it they really should...or just go back to the -91....It shouldn't be any more than $20-30 to have the pipe made up for you though....it's ideal to have the intake in the location LHT puts it.

A good tuner worth their salt that have tuned setups like yours will always send you a basemap to get the car running and carefully drive it to the shop staying as low on the rev range as you can.

A wideband O2 like Rolan said is necessary for remote tuning so he can log your AFR and make adjustments to your fuel & timing tables. Typically you'll see cars on the dyno with the sniffer attached to the end of the tail pipe. That's a wideband sensor. I'd recommend having a wideband to keep an eye on your AFRs, but it looks like many cars come out of LHT without gauges.....so take that as you will. Just have a good tuner send you a basemap, and just drive the car there nice and easy.
You are awesome. If you are ever in Northern Virginia, let me know and you can drive the car once it's done.
Old 12-19-2018, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dethred
You are awesome. If you are ever in Northern Virginia, let me know and you can drive the car once it's done.
Appreciate the kind words and offer man. Truth is I’m not too far behind you. I’m hoping the info shared and the things learned in this thread prove to be fortuitous to you/us. I don’t know what more the average guy can do to proof this install much further than what’s been discussed. I hope everything works out, because if things are gonna break I won’t be too far behind breaking stuff too then.

Last edited by Kyle; 12-20-2018 at 12:50 AM.
Old 12-21-2018, 03:18 AM
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Quick question, since there is a ton of random info that's hard to sift through...

I suppose I will have to get a wideband O2 sensor before tuning. Does anyone know if there's a preferred sensor that can work with the AEM v2, doesn't necessarily have a gauge is a simple install (doesn't require a bunch of wiring or cutting), and is relatively inexpensive (again, I don't care about a gauge). Thanks!
Old 12-21-2018, 06:15 AM
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You can buy a gauge-less innovate LC2 wideband (
Amazon Amazon
) , you need to depin the C16 pin of the ecu harness to wire a wideband into AEM or cut the existing wire and solder in the signal wire from the LC2. Use the switched 12v from the fuse panel under the dash to get power and use chassis ground nearby. 3 wires minimum.
Old 12-21-2018, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dethred
Quick question, since there is a ton of random info that's hard to sift through...

I suppose I will have to get a wideband O2 sensor before tuning. Does anyone know if there's a preferred sensor that can work with the AEM v2, doesn't necessarily have a gauge is a simple install (doesn't require a bunch of wiring or cutting), and is relatively inexpensive (again, I don't care about a gauge). Thanks!
You'll need a sensor + controller since the v2 doesn't have a built in wideband controller, something like this: https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...afr-controller

or better yet just get the aem infinity (which has a built in wideband controller) and then just buy the wideband sensor
Old 01-01-2019, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by afzan
You'll need a sensor + controller since the v2 doesn't have a built in wideband controller, something like this: https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...afr-controller

or better yet just get the aem infinity (which has a built in wideband controller) and then just buy the wideband sensor
I went ahead and ordered the wideband in the link. Not going to buy an entirely new ECU at this point.


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