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With bigger thread pitch you need to use lower fastening torque.
Not sure if there is a problem in this case but I thought it was worth mentioning.
Good call!
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For what its worth....I am convinced after monkeying with all the pieces that the many failures experienced before were due to old versions of this kit with 20mm belts, less support brackets, inferior bolts, and honestly a massive amount of user error and negligence for installations. I have gone over every pulley and 2 had tiny tiny dents/nicks from shipping that I could see over time could wear the belt. I am sure many miss that.
Also, many previous kits had incorrect hardware, missing thread locker, cheap bolts, etc. I think many people just took the kit at face value and bolted away. The instructions are 50% of what they should be and you should be a VERY experienced tinkerer/OCD person that meticulously inspects and patiently takes all steps and uses logic and learned tricks of the trade. I am no mechanic but I see SO MANY potential pitfalls for the uninitiated. @Kyle and others who are taking the steps to research and spend the extra couple bucks where it counts I BELIEVE will have an excellent experience.
Also as another couple NOTES for the ongoing install "enhancement" we are building here
-Do a full true physical inventory of everything and check it off in the instructions. Due to new pieces and revised bolts KW sends out you will end up with MORE than the instructions state. Understand the pieces.
-DO NOT USE steering rack spacers with the KW kit (bump steer spacer kit). My car had them, it makes the kit almost uninstallable.
-Roughly try and follow the instructions for the oil cooler, then give up and do it your own way. Get creative and bend some of the AC lines a hair to shape this area better. Their instructions here SUCK
-Torque specs for small allen bolts to crank pulley adapter are 6ft lbs. (I called KW)
-You CAN shave almost all of your PS bolt easily with a good aggressive hand file, I just did it. Took about 45 minutes.
-OPTIONAL: Do the oil cooler location and intercooler FIRST. It will help inform exactly how you mount your filter and tank in the engine bay and reduce line length. Also, sense of accomplishment is awesome!
-Check over all of your pulleys for ANY nicks, dents, etc. I found a few tiny high spots that I lightly sanded to produce an even surface area. Especially the crank pulley.
@Kyle I bought dykem crosscheck, that stuff ROCKS! Good call.
CT emissions. I know a few people that use it and are able to pass their cars without reverting to stock. The KW kit is not something I want to be continuously removing and reinstalling or messing with to get to pass. With the V2 I'd have to swap the stock ecu back in, put in the stock injectors, and remove the supercharger belt at the very least. I figured I'd spend the extra dough to alleviate the hassle of all of this.
Originally Posted by Code
Good call!
---------------------------------
For what its worth....I am convinced after monkeying with all the pieces that the many failures experienced before were due to old versions of this kit with 20mm belts, less support brackets, inferior bolts, and honestly a massive amount of user error and negligence for installations. I have gone over every pulley and 2 had tiny tiny dents/nicks from shipping that I could see over time could wear the belt. I am sure many miss that.
Also, many previous kits had incorrect hardware, missing thread locker, cheap bolts, etc. I think many people just took the kit at face value and bolted away. The instructions are 50% of what they should be and you should be a VERY experienced tinkerer/OCD person that meticulously inspects and patiently takes all steps and uses logic and learned tricks of the trade. I am no mechanic but I see SO MANY potential pitfalls for the uninitiated. @Kyle and others who are taking the steps to research and spend the extra couple bucks where it counts I BELIEVE will have an excellent experience.
Also as another couple NOTES for the ongoing install "enhancement" we are building here
-Do a full true physical inventory of everything and check it off in the instructions. Due to new pieces and revised bolts KW sends out you will end up with MORE than the instructions state. Understand the pieces.
-DO NOT USE steering rack spacers with the KW kit (bump steer spacer kit). My car had them, it makes the kit almost uninstallable.
-Roughly try and follow the instructions for the oil cooler, then give up and do it your own way. Get creative and bend some of the AC lines a hair to shape this area better. Their instructions here SUCK
-Torque specs for small allen bolts to crank pulley adapter are 6ft lbs. (I called KW)
-You CAN shave almost all of your PS bolt easily with a good aggressive hand file, I just did it. Took about 45 minutes.
-OPTIONAL: Do the oil cooler location and intercooler FIRST. It will help inform exactly how you mount your filter and tank in the engine bay and reduce line length. Also, sense of accomplishment is awesome!
-Check over all of your pulleys for ANY nicks, dents, etc. I found a few tiny high spots that I lightly sanded to produce an even surface area. Especially the crank pulley.
@Kyle I bought dykem crosscheck, that stuff ROCKS! Good call.
I feel you're spot on with your assessment....or at least I'm hopeful myself too that people who want this kit on their cars that put in the effort and research can make it reliable like LHT does. It would be a big pain in the ass for me to get my car down to Florida, and honestly I'd enjoy it much more if I could install this stuff myself, so I / we are trying to compile definitive information to hopefully make a good DIY standard for others who may want to install this kit. Understandably it shouldn't be on the user/installer to need to tweak any "complete kit" to make it last, but for those who put in the effort, it may be worth it, on top of setting the standards and procedures for anyone else to follow once things can be verified.
Good man on getting the torque number from KW!
What issue does the rack spacer cause? It positions the mounting ear even higher up on the pulley making it nigh impossible to get a belt between there or what? I'm assuming that's why you had to file off that much more of the mounting ear? Personally I was thinking about not clearancing the rack to the front of the pulley....I'll be running stiffer, new mounts all around, I truly can't see that much forward play from the motor to warrant grinding that thing down......As far as installing the belt is concerned, I'd imagine you could simply unbolt the nuts from the motor mounts and jack up the engine to get the belt through easy. Just a thought....I'll know more about possibilities when I have the kit myself. It truly isn't a lot of work to zip off 4 nuts and jack up the motor an inch or so.
Do you mind getting a couple of measurements? If you could just find like a thin dowel or something you can stick into the block to measure how deep that bolt goes into the timing cover for the new L bracket? As well as getting the width of that bracket. That way I can get a decent equivalent ARP bolt just for shits. OR just measure the bolt KW supplies to put in there, I'd imagine it's 25mm or so longer than stock to account for the width of that bracket.
Also I heard the allen cap screw that mates the VTEC solenoid bracket to the L bracket is too short. If you could get a depth of the threads for the L bracket we can find out what size is needed and source a grade 12.9 cap screw that takes advantage of all of the threads.
Lastly can you stick a dowel into the head on the intake manifold side where you bolt in the other KW bracket? I know LHT taps that out to the bottom and uses a longer bolt. If we could figure out how much longer of a bolt is needed by getting the width of the bracket and the depth of that hole that would be awesome.
The ARP stud should be in my hands guaranteed by Friday. Once I get it I'll turn it right around and get that out to you.
CT emissions. I know a few people that use it and are able to pass their cars without reverting to stock. The KW kit is not something I want to be continuously removing and reinstalling or messing with to get to pass. With the V2 I'd have to swap the stock ecu back in, put in the stock injectors, and remove the supercharger belt at the very least. I figured I'd spend the extra dough to alleviate the hassle of all of this.
I feel you're spot on with your assessment....or at least I'm hopeful myself too that people who want this kit on their cars that put in the effort and research can make it reliable like LHT does. It would be a big pain in the ass for me to get my car down to Florida, and honestly I'd enjoy it much more if I could install this stuff myself, so I / we are trying to compile definitive information to hopefully make a good DIY standard for others who may want to install this kit. Understandably it shouldn't be on the user/installer to need to tweak any "complete kit" to make it last, but for those who put in the effort, it may be worth it, on top of setting the standards and procedures for anyone else to follow once things can be verified.
Good man on getting the torque number from KW!
What issue does the rack spacer cause? It positions the mounting ear even higher up on the pulley making it nigh impossible to get a belt between there or what? I'm assuming that's why you had to file off that much more of the mounting ear? Personally I was thinking about not clearancing the rack to the front of the pulley....I'll be running stiffer, new mounts all around, I truly can't see that much forward play from the motor to warrant grinding that thing down......As far as installing the belt is concerned, I'd imagine you could simply unbolt the nuts from the motor mounts and jack up the engine to get the belt through easy. Just a thought....I'll know more about possibilities when I have the kit myself. It truly isn't a lot of work to zip off 4 nuts and jack up the motor an inch or so.
Do you mind getting a couple of measurements? If you could just find like a thin dowel or something you can stick into the block to measure how deep that bolt goes into the timing cover for the new L bracket? As well as getting the width of that bracket. That way I can get a decent equivalent ARP bolt just for shits. OR just measure the bolt KW supplies to put in there, I'd imagine it's 25mm or so longer than stock to account for the width of that bracket.
Also I heard the allen cap screw that mates the VTEC solenoid bracket to the L bracket is too short. If you could get a depth of the threads for the L bracket we can find out what size is needed and source a grade 12.9 cap screw that takes advantage of all of the threads.
Lastly can you stick a dowel into the head on the intake manifold side where you bolt in the other KW bracket? I know LHT taps that out to the bottom and uses a longer bolt. If we could figure out how much longer of a bolt is needed by getting the width of the bracket and the depth of that hole that would be awesome.
The ARP stud should be in my hands guaranteed by Friday. Once I get it I'll turn it right around and get that out to you.
Ok, so I couldn't get all, but here is what I got.
For the revision bracket that supports the vtec bracket, apprears to be an M10, 10.9 grade, long silver generic bolt, 70mm in length (that's the threaded shafts length not including the bolt head.) The bracket itself has a lower core length (area covering threads when bolt is inserted) of 26mm.
The button Allen bolt as a threaded shafts length of 20mm. This passes through the vtec bracket let and threads into the support bracket mentioned above . When set into the vtec bracket, it only exposes or allows for 5mm of thread or 3 full threads into the support bracketm. It should be longer! The threaded portion of the support bracket is threaded throughout and has a depth of 27mm. Concluding, we should have a button head all. Bolt 2x as long and be safe. I would get at least a 35mm shaft length bolt here. If you find the one let me know. The vtec bracket bracket is countersunk for this head to fit into that countersunk hole is 13mm ish wide.
Awesome info! What size is the Allen bolt for the vtec bracket that’s too short? M8x1.25?
And yea, here’s pics of the bracket with the bolt inserted a guy in the FB group posted....threads are laughably short....George & John from LHT are in the group and they said they replace it with a longer allen bolt....C’mon KW....
Not sure where I got info before but is was wrong because the bolts I ordered we're 5mm short, these are right.
That's weird, the KW manual says 40 & 60mm bolts are supplied, so people just opted for the same-sized ARP equivalent...strange they come up short. They're comparatively short to the supplied bolts as well?
That's weird, the KW manual says 40 & 60mm bolts are supplied, so people just opted for the same-sized ARP equivalent...strange they come up short. They're comparatively short to the supplied bolts as well?
Yeah, my head hurts from this. Haha. Manual is wrong. I think that arp alternative list is wrong too. The bolts they provide are both 5mm longer than the manual states
Yeah, my head hurts from this. Haha. Manual is wrong. I think that arp alternative list is wrong too. The bolts they provide are both 5mm longer than the manual states
01-28-2019, 10:28 AM
