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Kraftwerks SC inbound, advice would be helpful.

 
Old 02-07-2019, 08:29 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Code View Post
New update on the stud @Kyle sent me.

The kw fully threaded stud allows for roughly 11mm of thread engagement the new stud is longer and allows for roughly 16mm of thread engagement before bottoming out in the block. I am going to bottom it out with red loctite I THINK and then back it off like a 1/8th of a turn so its not' rubbing up against anything in there I don't want it to be.

​​​​​​The non threaded shaft actually provides a hair less play or "wobble" for the pulleys and spacer than the KW threaded shaft. Awesome. I'll need to space the nut on the end out with maybe two washers to get it to sit right but no worries there. This seems like this could be a great solution!

Any reasons to not red loctite the stud to block?

Also, I bought a stud puller, invaluable tool for this stuff. It pulled a blue loctite KW stud right out of there
Glad we’re getting closer and may have a winner. Why do you need washers to space out the nut? Are there not enough threads remaining to bottom it out or something without washers on the M10x1.5 side? Shouldn’t be the case for this
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Old 02-07-2019, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Kyle View Post


Glad we’re getting closer and may have a winner. Why do you need washers to space out the nut? Are there not enough threads remaining to bottom it out or something without washers on the M10x1.5 side? Shouldn’t be the case for this
When the stud is bottomed out in the block there are still a few threads remaining on the 1.25 side. All good there. the problem with the washer is is that the overall stud is a bit longer and therefore to tighten down the nut all the way it's going to be close to running up over the non threaded shaft on the 1.5 side. I was thinking about putting a washer or two in there to allow the nut to be fully torqued on the threads without touching the non treaded portion of the shaft
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Old 02-07-2019, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Code View Post
When the stud is bottomed out in the block there are still a few threads remaining on the 1.25 side. All good there. the problem with the washer is is that the overall stud is a bit longer and therefore to tighten down the nut all the way it's going to be close to running up over the non threaded shaft on the 1.5 side. I was thinking about putting a washer or two in there to allow the nut to be fully torqued on the threads without touching the non treaded portion of the shaft
For all intents and purposes I’d imagine a washer should go under the nut anyway usually, but who knows. I’ll see if I can get a thick washer, but all in all this stud sounds like a winner, I think I’ll order one myself. Perhaps I may even grind a few mm off of the 1.25 side.
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:22 PM
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I thought about that, I'm trying to think if I can keep it low heat, I don't know if my grinder going gets it too hot it may screw with the properties and strength, I think just slow and easy would be a good way to cut a few off!
​​​​Thinking about it, a tapered edge may allow it to sit a bit further in as well..........
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Code View Post
I thought about that, I'm trying to think if I can keep it low heat, I don't know if my grinder going gets it too hot it may screw with the properties and strength, I think just slow and easy would be a good way to cut a few off!
​​​​Thinking about it, a tapered edge may allow it to sit a bit further in as well..........
I don't think a thicker washer will be all that big of a deal honestly. I'm really happy with the results of this stud. If anything I might be able to find a machinist that can either put a few more threads on there for me or slowly mill off a few mm of the other thread with a lathe and some cutting oil/coolant being sprayed on it. I feel for most people the supplied stud is more than sufficient, I'm just trying to make my car more of a proof of concept that the KW kit can work reliably by essentially going through every part of it. I think you feel the same. It's a lot of trouble to just get a few more mm of thread engagement. Can you fully torque the nut down without bottoming it out on the shank? If so I'd just roll with it.

And personally I find red threadlocker to be overkill.....If the blue Loctite held it well enough to keep it secure to tighten the nut to spec I find that more than sufficient. Obviously you were able to get it free with the stud remover and blue Loctite, but keep in mind those threads are only cast aluminum and not the most robust, I wouldn't want to be cranking on it trying to break red threadlocker loose and end up ripping the threads out or cracking the timing cover. When it comes to any of the stuff installed on the block I think I'll be sticking to blue threadlocker. I know you can use heat to soften the red, but I don't wanna be torching on heat-treated bolts lol.

In the instructions I have access to it says to put blue threadlocker on the stud and hand tighten, no mention of red. I know LHT uses red on both the bolt and nut, but I'm not sure how mindful that's being of ever needing to remove/service the kit. I personally thing blue is more than adequate and that's what I'll be using.






Edit: Man, even in the instructions once the stud is threaded in and all the pulleys are stacked on it you have very little threads remaining....factor in the width of the mounting plate and you have almost nothing for the nut to catch on....

Also, were you able to get the thread size for the allen head fastener that goes into the revised bracket that's too short?

I'm ordering the stuff from Allen's Fasteners that you specified that need to be longer as well as the 70mm long bolt for the new bracket.

Picking up the AM4.725-2B stud. Essentially the same one I sent you, just a tiny bit longer, but this one is advertised as having 1" of fine thread for the timing cover side, and 2" of the coarse thread for the nut. I'll get it in, give it a quick visual, and send it out to you if you're not in a huge hurry. I think this will be the one, otherwise the one we have now is great. Besides, going longer isn't a huge deal if it works....Even jumping up to 4.75" that's only 120mm, so 20mm longer than the one KW provides, less than an inch.



Last edited by Kyle; 02-07-2019 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 02-07-2019, 11:03 PM
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Blue threadlocker gets my vote too. Red is overkill and I'd be worried come time to remove the kit/part of the kit for whatever reason...
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Awesome info! What size is the Allen bolt for the vtec bracket that’s too short? M8x1.25?

And yea, here’s pics of the bracket with the bolt inserted a guy in the FB group posted....threads are laughably short....George & John from LHT are in the group and they said they replace it with a longer allen bolt....C’mon KW....




I found that a 30mm m8 1.25 bolt is a perfect fit. 40 was too long. I’m using a bolt I found at local hardware store that has the same exact numbers and lettering found on the bolt Kraftwerks supplies so I’m assuming it’s of same quality. I’ll look on that Allen’s fasteners page to see if I can find an ARP equivalent. Also does anyone know the torque spec for the bolt on the front of the engine that this new bracket bolts into? I have a s2k manual I’m just being lazy looking it up
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by leov36 View Post

I found that a 30mm m8 1.25 bolt is a perfect fit. 40 was too long. I’m using a bolt I found at local hardware store that has the same exact numbers and lettering found on the bolt Kraftwerks supplies so I’m assuming it’s of same quality. I’ll look on that Allen’s fasteners page to see if I can find an ARP equivalent. Also does anyone know the torque spec for the bolt on the front of the engine that this new bracket bolts into? I have a s2k manual I’m just being lazy looking it up

Sweet, thanks!

Looking like 33ft/lbs.



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Old 02-12-2019, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Kyle View Post



Sweet, thanks!

Looking like 33ft/lbs.



ha thanks for the quick response! I’m in the process of installing this kit/changing clutch/valve adjustment and a million other miscellaneous things. This thread has been invaluable so thanks guys. I’ll post updates with notes I make with my install also. Not sure how fast they’ll roll in though cause it’s cold as balls where I’m at so not much work it getting done.
I’ve gone through every detail with this kit just like you guys. So far the only thing I’m not happy with is the IM side of the mounting. Not only do i think it could use more reinforcement but I don’t like how the bracket has “play” in it. I guess with an ARP stud there and maybe a washer I’ll feel better. Other than that I think everything has been thought of that could address any potential issues. This is a finicky kit that has no room for installation error or carelessness, and needs close monitoring for maintenance issues. I’m ok with that
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Old 02-12-2019, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by leov36 View Post

ha thanks for the quick response! I’m in the process of installing this kit/changing clutch/valve adjustment and a million other miscellaneous things. This thread has been invaluable so thanks guys. I’ll post updates with notes I make with my install also. Not sure how fast they’ll roll in though cause it’s cold as balls where I’m at so not much work it getting done.
I’ve gone through every detail with this kit just like you guys. So far the only thing I’m not happy with is the IM side of the mounting. Not only do i think it could use more reinforcement but I don’t like how the bracket has “play” in it. I guess with an ARP stud there and maybe a washer I’ll feel better. Other than that I think everything has been thought of that could address any potential issues. This is a finicky kit that has no room for installation error or carelessness, and needs close monitoring for maintenance issues. I’m ok with that
No problem, dude! I have the manual access right at my fingertips, so it's no big deal. Check out S2000.club [Your Honda S2000 Resource] if you haven't already, so much info there! And believe me I'm sympathetic to the cold. I'm in CT and I have an absolute ton of parts to go on the car....essentially a full transformation at this point.....but no way in hell am I wrenching when it's cold, even inside a garage. I definitely think the kit needed/still needs more reinforcement...It seems like they chose some of the weakest mounting points for all of the key mounting locations.....And the brackets are very slim in comparison to other kits, especially on the IM side like you mentioned. SOS uses a bolt off of the alternator I think with a THICK bracket, which I feel is much better. But, so long as everything remains torqued with tough hardware I don't think there should be a problem. And yeah, monitoring any FI setup that isn't factory is pretty critical...How people think they can set and forget is a little silly to me, but everyone is different. *shrug*
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