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Kraftwerks SC inbound, advice would be helpful.

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Old 01-17-2019, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Timmigrant
Kyle I learned the hard way that the stock Kraftwerks gasket was bad. I'm actually still using it and it's been reliable after retorquing it such that the bracket is in contact with the block. Knock on wood it's been good so far. Great info that the stock gasket with the screen removed also works. So anyone installing a new kit I'd agree that using an OEM Honda gasket with the screen removed is a WAY better solution.

As for the oil cooler I made some custom mounts hanging the oil cooler off the engine bar cross member, and positioned behind the radiator. I calculated the oil pressure drop through the oil lines and wanted to keep them as short as possible. My oil cooler is currently receiving warm air off the radiator, so it's not particularly effective at the moment. But with an S-shaped duct from under the car to my oil cooler I'm hoping to get in some good cold air, and have good flow evacuation. This prevents me from cutting up the front bumper too much (which I want to keep for brake air ducts in the future anyway) and keeps the oil lines as short as possible.
Good to hear that things have been working out for you then! And honestly if you're not having an issue at this time I'd definitely go the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" route. I would definitely replace it with an OEM gasket in the future if the issue arises again. Truthfully a gasket is a gasket.....I think it would behoove KW to just supply an OEM Honda gasket with the appropriate instruction, a little more money, but a ton more reliability in that regard. OR they could simply just redesign their current gasket to be properly formed as opposed to what looks like it just being stamped out of a flat piece of gasket material like a cookie cutter, lol.

Pretty cool setup you have going on with the oil cooler! I guess in my case I really don't have access to the materials or tools necessary to fabricate custom bracketry, and mounting solutions that utilize pre-existing points just make me really happy. Regarding the brake ducting I think you could just as easily add the duct and then branch it out, one going to the cooler core and the other going to your brakes, but it sounds like you already have a setup and a plan, but I think the cooler setup posted is still an excellent solution for others.

I myself was personally thinking of buying a new OEM bumper and just cutting out the fake ducts as well as the grille mounting provisions....It looks pretty damn clean honestly, especially if you have an intercooler occupying the space. This is one of my favorite s2000s on insta. He plans on boosting in the future, so it won't look quite as naked and unfinished in the center without an intercooler.





Last edited by Kyle; 01-17-2019 at 08:33 PM.
Old 01-17-2019, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by beechx1
Tim:
I track my car with a stock radiator, an oil cooler and brake ducts. See my thread here https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...ctane-1126205/ with pictures of the installation. I have never had any cooling issues even on 95 degree track days.

I was one of the early adopters and went through a couple broken 20 mm belts and had broken VTEC bolts three times. I finally drilled out the VTEC threads in the aluminum head, installed steel Time-Cert thread inserts, used ARP bolts and safety wired them in. No problems since then. Its good to see KW solving the issues that we early adopters had. I think its a really great kit with the bugs worked out.
Holy hell....you're not messing around regarding the VTEC solenoid. I was actually thinking about some kind of Heli-coil setup, considering on the driver's side it seems tapping out the hole further and using a longer bolt is a recommended safety measure. If you're going that far why not just take it a step further like you did and install time serts or helicoils? Good to know someone has done it and is having great success! Is there a specified torque spec when mounting the VTEC solenoid bracket beyond the factory 7-10 ft/lbs? It's so damn easy to exceed that value with a 1/4" ratchet....I just can't see how something with all of that load and vibration placed upon it could remain secure at such a low torque value. Adding those inserts increases the clamping force significantly by allowing you to tighten those bolts a lot more. I think I may consider going that route and adding those inserts on both sides of the head as a preventative measure, as well as maybe using a lower strength purple threadlocker just as added protection against vibration etc. I wouldn't wanna be wrenching too hard on the aluminum head with blue threadlocker, even with inserts installed. Safety wire is another great solution though, and something else I'm considering. Thank you for chiming in!

OR you could just do this LOL.



Old 01-18-2019, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Code
I had read somewhere that a trick is to actually pull a spark plug and thread a bunch of rope into a cylinder to prevent the piston from reaching TDC, thus providing resistance to torque down that bolt. My big concern is hurting something, any thoughts om that?
From what I've read and even seen online via videos etc many people have reliably used that method. Personally I wouldn't want to stuff anything down my cylinder for fear of a foreign object finding its way in somehow some way, but people have supposedly used this method many times for various reasons repeatedly and been okay. Don't take that as a green light from me, though.

Just put the car in 6th, ebrake on, wheels chocked, and have someone mash on the brake pedal while you torque it. I'd do whatever it took to ensure that bolt was torqued to the proper spec vs just getting it "as tight as you can".

Last edited by Kyle; 01-18-2019 at 12:50 AM.
Old 01-18-2019, 05:51 AM
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Is there a reason people are using "ARP" branded hardware and not grade 8 hardware? Seems like you'd be paying more for the name.
Old 01-18-2019, 09:47 AM
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As a quick idea I actually also bought a slight bend 3" aluminum intake tube $29 shipped off Amazon to recreate what LHT has been doing extending the filter in the passenger side.
Old 01-18-2019, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Code
As a quick idea I actually also bought a slight bend 3" aluminum intake tube $29 shipped off Amazon to recreate what LHT has been doing extending the filter in the passenger side.
Do you mind sharing the link? I'd be interested in doing this as well.
Old 01-18-2019, 03:05 PM
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When I did mine I just put the car in 6th, pulled the handbrake hard and torqued the crank pulley to spec. It worked well.
Old 01-18-2019, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Speed Inc.
Is there a reason people are using "ARP" branded hardware and not grade 8 hardware? Seems like you'd be paying more for the name.
ARP hardware is way better than grade 8 bolts....and depending on the source of those bolts (wherever KW could get them the cheapest) they may not be of the best quality. ARP is much more resistant to shearing, grade 8 bolts are strong, but brittle, and the issues with the KW kit has been due to bolts sheering from lateral forces.

This is why even KW themselves provide ARP bolts for the VTEC solenoid bracket over the previous grade 8 hardware they used to supply.
Old 01-18-2019, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Canadian144
Do you mind sharing the link? I'd be interested in doing this as well.
Last Amazon link was wrong, this is right, 100%
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009M9990W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
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Old 01-26-2019, 01:36 PM
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Don't buy the ARP idler pulley stud!!!! The ARP stud seams great because it is longer and has a non threaded section, don't be fooled. The non threaded section IS smaller in diameter than the threaded section. I slid the pulleys on it and there is a lot of slop, not good! If I could buy the same ARP stud ALL ThREADED then I think it would be excellent!

Last edited by Code; 01-26-2019 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Spelling


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