Kraftwerks SC inbound, advice would be helpful.
#81
Kyle I learned the hard way that the stock Kraftwerks gasket was bad. I'm actually still using it and it's been reliable after retorquing it such that the bracket is in contact with the block. Knock on wood it's been good so far. Great info that the stock gasket with the screen removed also works. So anyone installing a new kit I'd agree that using an OEM Honda gasket with the screen removed is a WAY better solution.
As for the oil cooler I made some custom mounts hanging the oil cooler off the engine bar cross member, and positioned behind the radiator. I calculated the oil pressure drop through the oil lines and wanted to keep them as short as possible. My oil cooler is currently receiving warm air off the radiator, so it's not particularly effective at the moment. But with an S-shaped duct from under the car to my oil cooler I'm hoping to get in some good cold air, and have good flow evacuation. This prevents me from cutting up the front bumper too much (which I want to keep for brake air ducts in the future anyway) and keeps the oil lines as short as possible.
As for the oil cooler I made some custom mounts hanging the oil cooler off the engine bar cross member, and positioned behind the radiator. I calculated the oil pressure drop through the oil lines and wanted to keep them as short as possible. My oil cooler is currently receiving warm air off the radiator, so it's not particularly effective at the moment. But with an S-shaped duct from under the car to my oil cooler I'm hoping to get in some good cold air, and have good flow evacuation. This prevents me from cutting up the front bumper too much (which I want to keep for brake air ducts in the future anyway) and keeps the oil lines as short as possible.
Pretty cool setup you have going on with the oil cooler! I guess in my case I really don't have access to the materials or tools necessary to fabricate custom bracketry, and mounting solutions that utilize pre-existing points just make me really happy. Regarding the brake ducting I think you could just as easily add the duct and then branch it out, one going to the cooler core and the other going to your brakes, but it sounds like you already have a setup and a plan, but I think the cooler setup posted is still an excellent solution for others.
I myself was personally thinking of buying a new OEM bumper and just cutting out the fake ducts as well as the grille mounting provisions....It looks pretty damn clean honestly, especially if you have an intercooler occupying the space. This is one of my favorite s2000s on insta. He plans on boosting in the future, so it won't look quite as naked and unfinished in the center without an intercooler.
Last edited by Kyle; 01-17-2019 at 08:33 PM.
#82
Tim:
I track my car with a stock radiator, an oil cooler and brake ducts. See my thread here https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...ctane-1126205/ with pictures of the installation. I have never had any cooling issues even on 95 degree track days.
I was one of the early adopters and went through a couple broken 20 mm belts and had broken VTEC bolts three times. I finally drilled out the VTEC threads in the aluminum head, installed steel Time-Cert thread inserts, used ARP bolts and safety wired them in. No problems since then. Its good to see KW solving the issues that we early adopters had. I think its a really great kit with the bugs worked out.
I track my car with a stock radiator, an oil cooler and brake ducts. See my thread here https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...ctane-1126205/ with pictures of the installation. I have never had any cooling issues even on 95 degree track days.
I was one of the early adopters and went through a couple broken 20 mm belts and had broken VTEC bolts three times. I finally drilled out the VTEC threads in the aluminum head, installed steel Time-Cert thread inserts, used ARP bolts and safety wired them in. No problems since then. Its good to see KW solving the issues that we early adopters had. I think its a really great kit with the bugs worked out.
OR you could just do this LOL.
#83
Just put the car in 6th, ebrake on, wheels chocked, and have someone mash on the brake pedal while you torque it. I'd do whatever it took to ensure that bolt was torqued to the proper spec vs just getting it "as tight as you can".
Last edited by Kyle; 01-18-2019 at 12:50 AM.
#86
#88
This is why even KW themselves provide ARP bolts for the VTEC solenoid bracket over the previous grade 8 hardware they used to supply.
#89
The following users liked this post:
Canadian144 (01-19-2019)
#90
Don't buy the ARP idler pulley stud!!!! The ARP stud seams great because it is longer and has a non threaded section, don't be fooled. The non threaded section IS smaller in diameter than the threaded section. I slid the pulleys on it and there is a lot of slop, not good! If I could buy the same ARP stud ALL ThREADED then I think it would be excellent!
Last edited by Code; 01-26-2019 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Spelling