Major issues - Fuel in exhaust... Data log included
 

Hi!

My car has had a long standing issue with suddely going into limp mode while driving. At first I changed the spark plugs, and it ran better for a few days... then issue returned.

Then I changed the FPR and Coil packs, no improvement!

Then I changed the IAT sensor and clearned the MAP reader tunnel, and it worked better for 3-4 weeks, then the issue returned... slowly. At first after 45 minutes of driving, then 30 minutes of driving. Now, I cant even make it more than 5 minutes and am having hard starts right after as well.

I noticed a bunch of fuel dumping from my exhaust. I have no cats. Full race gt30, ID1000's and Hondata.

Maybe one of my ID1000's is gone bad? What is a good way to check? Listen with a long screwdriver? Check for fouling in any of the plugs? You can see in my datalogging towards the end, I caught it acting up... notice that my INJ falls flat... mind you during the crazy jumping on the chart, I had my foot on the gas the whole time!

Also - could it be my TPS? It does seem to read okay, but when it acted up, it reads 0% when I think it isnt 0%...

Anyone? I am thinking that I did a poor job cleaning the MAP sensor tunnel. I will do this again thoroughly. This might only explain why my car ran well for 4 weeks, then slowly got worse again... Hopefully one day after work this week or maybe next weekend.

Jeez guys... thanks for all the help!

Okay, so I fixed the issue. My MAP tunnel was dirty I guess. I sprayed a crap ton of carb clearner into it. Now the car runs great.

Installing a catch can this week.

We all were aware of your issues,and our collective thoughts established you were capable to fix it given time :D
:thumbup:

im going with your tps. if it reads 0, that can screw everything up.

See the datalog in OP, the TPS seemed okay. I bought an omnipower unit... its in my trunk but thinking of returning it.

Now I have a boost leak on my hot side pipes! Argggghhhh lets hope my headers didnt crack. It seemed to develop very slowly.

if you switch tps, you need to adjust the tune for it, especially if it is a different scale. IE 2 bar vs 4 bar unit.

i said its your tps because of your original post

lso - could it be my TPS? It does seem to read okay, but when it acted up, it reads 0% when I think it isnt 0%...

if when you see the problem it reads 0, then thats 100% your issue. if the tps tells the ecu its 0%, but the throttle is open, then everything goes wrong from there. remember in the tune, evey sensor feeds the ecu info, then calls on tables based on info from the sensors. 50% throttle should be half open tb, if it isnt, shits broken rofl.

Found my hot side leak.... ! The freaken banjo bolt fell out... do you guys know if 10mm will work?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...c75555a30e.jpg

You guys know any stores where I can buy this little bolt? The same bolt is found on my blowoff valve.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...281331974f.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...c6f7fbca85.jpg

Probably just check the manual/catalogue or even check out summitracing.com

I went to local performance shop and the had an equivalent barbed vacuum hose fitting. It was too tight under the car so I tool the original vacuum filling from the blow off and used it on the wastegate. I took the new one, pictured, and put on the blow off.

BUT.... now my car runs much worse! Instead of a max boost of 7psi, now my guage is reading 18 psi almost instantly... what the hell?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...67fcebb4e6.jpg

Speaking to a friend of mine, I now think that the new fitting I added on the blow off valve has significantly more flow than the old fitting, due to a straight through design. I replaced the original banjo bolt on the blow off valve that I was using to replace the fallen off banjo bald on the wastegate. I understand that there is a Spring that is stopping me from boosting past 7PSI in my wastegate. So I'm just gonna leave that alone as as. Until I get the original tial jeggs part online somewhere.